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Ace-Garageguy

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Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy

  1. Yes, Bondo #801 Professional finishing glaze. It's a 2-part polyester product, chemically identical to regular bondo, but with a much finer texture. As JTalmage says, there are many brands of similar product that work equally well. (Do NOT confuse it with Bondo # 907, which is a single-part lacquer putty.) 801 comes with its own hardener. The advantage the Bondo product has in the US market is that it is available in small, modeler-friendly packaging, while most "professional" products come in larger amounts that will probably go bad before you use them up (unless you build a LOT of custom models). The larger package is #391. Same exact stuff.
  2. FYI...actually, no. The Manta Mirage and the Manta Montage are two entirely different cars. You're correct, a Mirage was stolen in 60 Seconds, The Mirage has the characteristic McLaren M8 front wheel opening shape, like this... While a Montage ( the Hardcastle car) looks very different, and is a semi-clone of a McLaren M6 GT...
  3. ABS unit, I believe.
  4. The Coyote (Manta Mirage) was based on the McLaren M6GT design, but like most kit-cars, lost rather a lot in the translation. REAL McLaren M6GT...
  5. It LOOKS (the body, anyway) like a season-1 Coyote, which looks like a Manta Montage, which looks like a customized McLaren M6GT. Nothing at all like a GT-40 MkIV. The MkIV chrome tree was modified (4 of 5 wheels were changed) to make the Coyote kit, and new tooling was done to make the body. If the original tools for the MkIV still exist, who knows?
  6. Looks great so far. I've wanted to pirate the guts out of one of these and build a hot-rod Rotus 7. I'm sure I'll learn a thing or 3 from watching this build.
  7. %&^*((#$@#@ !!! Just kidding.
  8. I think there's some confusion here. The AMT H&M Coyote kit is based on the MPC GT-40 Mk IV, not the AMT Mk II kit (at least, it shares nothing with the original AMT MkII I have). I have all 3 of them on the shelves and have just checked. Much of the underbody and guts is identical between the AMT Coyote and the MPC Mk. IV. This is, of course, prototypically totally incorrect. The REAL TV Coyote was built from molds pulled off of a McLaren M6GT, and was on a Beetle chassis. The M6GT was also cloned into the Manta Montage kit car, which could be assembled either Beetle-based or mid engined, and could be quite a potent machine. Another Manta kit-car, the Mirage, was loosely based on the McLaern M8 design.
  9. I've been fascinated by GM's "Bison" concept turbine-powered tractor / container trailer rig since I first saw it in '64. I've been kinda waiting for my skills to catch up with my desires, but I think I'll at least get this one started this coming year. Lotsa scratching.
  10. Thanks again. I really DO appreciate you all's interest. It'll be a while yet. I still have to do the forward under-part of the bellypan, the entire rear bellypan, decide on where and cut the hood/nose into sections, cut holes in the hood sides for the exhausts, and make up a hard tonneau with a base for a curved, Indy-style windshield. Then 2K primer, molds and pull final parts from them. Plus smooth the '28 body shell and fill the rear wheel wells. Whew. Then there are the floors, supports and bulkheads inside the car, more cleanup/filling to do on the frame rails, and a roll bar. And rear wishbones and brakes. Gotta make a bomber seat, steering linkage, instrument panel, etc., plus a water tank to go in the tail, and all of the hoses and wiring details. Kinda like eating an elephant.
  11. If he paid $0 for it, which I believe is the case, then whatever he makes is pure profit.
  12. Individual's problems don't mean diddly in the grand scheme of things anyway, no matter if first or third world...unless the individual happens to be an actual Einstein or Salk or brother Wright. Then everybody loses. But I kinda think the 3rd world just might be having a tiny bit harder time of things if it weren't for the first world, ya know? Maybe too little, too inefficiently delivered, too late, but what medical and monetary aid goes to those 'developing' areas comes from the the developed 'first world'.
  13. You'll have to source wheels for the car too. The photo shows the '37-'39 "wide 5" style wheel, and there were several variations in width, from 3.5" on the V8-60 powered cars to 5" on some trucks. AMT '36 Fords have kinda pretty good stockers, but they lack the scalloped centers your photo shows. The Revell '37 Ford trucks have the scalloped centers, but unfortunately, part of the hubcap assembly is molded on to the wheel, and it completely obscures the signature "wide-5" bolt pattern. I know I've seen the correct wheels somewhere, either in a kit or in resin, but I can't recall where. Bigkenny is right about the chassis. All '35-'40 Fords are on essentially the same chassis, but the street-rod version with independent suspension that's under the kit you have isn't appropriate for a period stock-car racer. The frame and running gear from the Revell '40 coupe (the stock one) comes with the 2-speed Columbia rear end, which is also wrong for a race-car, but otherwise, with a few slight adjustments, should work fine. You'll need a non-overdrive rear end, and any of them from the Revell '48 Fords should be adaptable to the '40 chassis.
  14. In general, yes, stock T springs are on top of the rear axle. However, there are 2 complete chassis in this particular kit, with 2 complete sets of running gear. Neither is particularly correct as to how a 1:1 is set up, but the hot-rod version he's building has the spring ends going into little slots to the rear of the backing plates...a setup that would not work at all on a real car, as there is no provision for shackles (which the free ends of leaf springs HAVE to have, no matter where they're attached).
  15. Here's some info and pix from Model Railroader Mag. http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/190663/2082405.aspx And here are some shots of a beautifully weathered one...http://lsa-space.blogspot.com/2012_09_06_archive.html
  16. From 1935 through 1940, Ford cars were on essentially the same chassis. The body, however, was redesigned in 1937 and had more in common with the '40 than it did with the '36 (the basic 1937 body shell carried through to the end of the 1940 models, though the '39-'40 had different firewalls and 'faces' due to differing front fenders, grilles and hoods). The '37 body shell redesign probably accounts for the width discrepancy between your 1/24 '36 and your 1/24 '37. Both body and chassis were redesigned completely for 1941, and would be essentially the same (again, with minor sheetmetal and trim changes) through 1948.
  17. Great project, and a car you almost never see. Looks really good so far.
  18. It's really a pretty simple kit, with most of the piping details molded on the the boiler, unfortunately. But I have seen some extremely attractive static models built from it, and a couple of running locomotives with Bowser and Rivarossi guts. I have one on the shelf here waiting to become a scrap-line / pre-restoration piece.
  19. Just Google "1969 COPO Camaro" and you will get a lot of hits. I just tried it...everything you might want to know should be there.
  20. Yes. There's actually plenty of clearance between the axle and the frame (especially as it's a straight-line car, intended to accelerate fairly slowly on a smooth surface) and there won't be much paint on the running gear anyway, as it's supposed to be something with minimal show-appeal. The body panels will have to be fitted with paint-thickness in mind, as I'm going for a well-turned-out, shiny look up top.
  21. Everything is dead on, so I cut the crossmember out of the A chassis and "welded" it in place on the new chassis. Everything went in right, and the frame sits level at the right height (measured at the mockup stage) to maintain the exact stance I'm after, while maintaining the wheelbase too. While the suspension parts were setting up between stages, I went ahead and started the bodywork. I don't see how anyone could do this work with one-part putty...at least not this fast, with thick, sculptural fills.
  22. Yes sir. Hacking and whacking junk together, measure several times, try to cut only once. I'm using a Halibrand quick-change rear end salvaged from another gluebomb. Ted Halibrand introduced his QC in 1948, so this would be pretty much state-of-the-art in '49 or so. The Halibrand QC came in 2 flavors..."Model A" and "V8". The V8 unit used '32 and later steel Ford axle bells bolted to the alloy center section. The V8 axle bells I have here had much too thick flanges to look like anything other than klugey toys, so I put a little effort into thinning them. The one attached to the center section is about right, while the loose one is still to be corrected. It's pretty much standard practice to use a model A or T rear spring to clear a QC, so you have to use a crossmember that will work with those springs as well. Here's another gluebomb AMT '28 chassis with the right crossmember, and I was able to get the spring loose from it without breaking. I'm going to position the spring behind the axle. so I've made up 1/16" spacer blocks to stand in as mockups for new spring hangers. The assembled QC gets installed in the A chassis to check the clearance between the axle ends and the crossmember. Before I commit to the next step, I need to double check the ride height, and make sure the body will go back on the chassis in exactly the same place every time. I had Lefty sit in the car with the engine installed so I could see where his feet go. I'll be making a light weight tubular structure to hold up the body (and locate it positively, relative to to frame), so I need to see how much room I have to work with. Just exactly like building a real car.
  23. Found out that my current version of Win7 apparently doesn't have native text-to-speech (TTS) capability other than a seemingly useless utility called "Narrator" (I suppose it's for sight-challenged users, under the aegis of "ease of access" ) that refuses to recognize my Word documents. XP had a lovely and simple to use TTS engine that was an integral part of Office / Word. Looks like Win8 has the older functionality restored, but not all versions of 7 do. Win7 DOES include speech recognition, but if you've ever used TinyLimp's version, you may know it's not terribly good. WHY 7 had speech recognition but not native TTS is completely beyond my powers of understanding. There appear to be some odd workarounds and "hidden" commands to get TTS to function in 7, but it's just stupid compared to the easy and efficient functionality of the XP version. I write a lot, and it's helpful to be able to have text read back to me, to get a better feel of how something will scan when read by someone else. Currently looking at outside software, as I used to run an additional TTS package when I was fiddling with an early AI simulator.
  24. Looks very good, and your work is very clean. You also have a lot of little touches on yours that make it stand out from the herd, like drilling the ends of the exhaust stacks. One tiny suggestion...a little black or brown sharpie inside the stack ends for simulated exhaust residue.
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