Ace-Garageguy

Try craft stores like Michaels. Beading wire. Cheap cheap cheap.

Yes, after walking miles to work and back home, uphill BOTH ways, in the snow, and then milking the cat.

Early Monogram '30 Ford...

Speaking of which...it's true that the over-50 group has 75% of the disposable income, but most marketers have been ignoring this group for some time, led by the mistaken belief (much repeated by marketing and media "experts") that we old farts are so set in our ways that we won't buy or try anything new, so the smart money is in going after a young audience (who don't have any money to buy anything with). So, some recent studies have been revealing the fallacy of this approach, uncovering an emerging indication that because we're living longer and don't have to work quite so hard, we have much MORE interest in new stuff in general than our parents' and grandparents' generations, AND WE HAVE MOST OF THE MONEY TOO. So much for past-it relevance.

Or any PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue. Pacer 560, Testors 3515, Elmer's, etc.)

I'm all in favor of that. It's just that most people could really benefit from knowing a little more about how the world around them works (you know, like being a more informed voter and actually having KNOWLEDGE instead of being led by the media) and how things IN the world around them work (and maybe being a little less helpless when their car or fridge or computer breaks down). Building models at least develops some physical skills, co-ordination, appreciation for quality and design, the ability to self-criticize and self-correct, etc. I'm not seeing where moving little pretend model pieces around a screen has much positive impact. But remember, I'm a past-it old man who has no relevant opinions.

Why not read something, learn something, instead of pursuing pretty much mindless entertainment constantly?

The right diameter in 1/25 scale for plug wires is about .013" to .017" (so get drill bits sized accordingly. drill-bit set here...http://www.micromark.com/20-piece-drill-bit-set-41-60,8183.html). Some guys will argue about this till hell freezes, but that's scale-correct and any fatter tends to make your engine look like it's covered in sausages or garden hose. These don't really look like plug wires, do they?

OMG !!! OMG !!! I'm all for anything that completely removes the prospect for developing manual skill and eye-hand coordination (other than mouse-clicking or smart-phone tapping) and alleviates the need for exposure to smelly BAD chemicals like glue and paint, and exposure to sharp and DANGEROUS tools. OMG !!! OMG !!! (sarcasm)

This stuff is made for it (as is Testors 3515 and others...all PVA glues...polyvinyl acetate...as is Elmer's). No solvents to attack the plastic and no "smoking" like most CA glues do. Downside is that the stuff has NO strength wet and takes time to set up, so the parts have to be fixtured in place somehow. Watch crystal cement is another option. Available here...http://www.micromark.com/watch-crystal-cement-two-1and3-oz-tubes,7468.html

I simply don't consider all the recalls acceptable at all. It just means people are NOT doing the jobs they're paid for, which is to GET IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. And the engineers and designers ARE PAID WELL to get it right the first time. I've been a professional race-car mechanic and an aircraft mechanic. I've NEVER had the luxury of radioing the race driver or pilot in flight with an "oops, you better come in or land, because I forgot to do something and it may lead to a failure that could kill you. But don't be upset...I'm only human and nobody is perfect". Total BS.

I think we have a winner.

I've been getting LS engines out of C5 Corvette kits. They seem to be pretty cheap most of the time on ebay. Of course, if you need a gearbox you're out of luck as the C5 has a transaxle in the rear.

Two Fujimi kits that I know of.

Ummm...as an A&P mechanic, I go by the specific FAA definition for fittings. It reads: "the dash number following the AN number indicates the size of tubing or hose for which the fitting is made, in 1/16ths of an inch. This size measures the OD of tubing and the ID of hose "(which is what I said). I provided the quote to give a general overview to modelers who may not be aware of the AN hose and fitting story, not as an attempt to provide real-world technical data, as I believe it's unlikely anyone will plumb their real aircraft, starship or top-fuel car from information they got from a model car forum. I carelessly neglected to specifically state that it refers to the OD of hard tubing. Because, like you say, it doesn't really matter in the model world. That's why I used the term "nominal", which means "about" or "kinda", and is plenty close enough for this forum. A dash 10 hard line will be about .025" in 1/25 scale. A dash 10 hose will be a little larger, (assuming a nominal real-hose wall-thickness of about 1/8 inch...depending on the specific hose construction) or about .035", just barely noticeable to most people. But thank you for pointing out my most egregious oversight and lack of absolute technical clarity. A further clarification, and why I didn't really think it was necessary to go into all of this for a model, but here it is anyway...From Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies. QUOTE: Background The idea behind AN hoses and fittings was to provide a flexible alternative to rigid tubing in plumbing aircraft and military vehicles. Sizes for rigid tubes were standardized, with sizes called out by tubing OD (3/16", 1/2", etc). AN hose sizes were designed to match the ID sizes of these rigid tubes. Can you see the confusion starting? Tubing is known by OD, but the hoses are sized according to the tubing ID -- not the hose OD or even the hose ID. AN hose sizes are based on the nominal OD of the tubing with a matching ID. It sounds convoluted, but it really is a simple idea and a logical goal. If hoses were called out using the hose OD (the same system used for tubing), the ID of a 3/8" hose would be much smaller than the ID of a 3/8" tube. Add to that the fact that different hoses have different wall thicknesses, and it would be impossible to predict the hose size required for any application. Specifics The AN numbers refer to the tubing OD in sixteenths of an inch. For example, 8AN hose has the same ID as a 1/2" nominal tube. 3AN hose has the same ID as a 3/16" tube. This means that 6AN hose will not introduce any appreciable flow restriction in a fuel system designed around 3/8" OD rigid tubing. Note that this does not match AN Bolt Nomenclature. AN bolt sizes translate directly to bolt OD. To help differentiate between the two systems, convention has put the "AN" before the bolt size but after the plumbing size (e.g., AN4 bolts / 6AN hose). The Bad News When racers adopted AN plumbing, it soon became apparent that engineers in different industries did not work together much. Automotive designers had their own standards and accepted sizes, and very few of those were found in aircraft systems. One glaring mismatch is the popularity of 5/16" (8mm) fuel hose on automobiles. While a specification exists for 5AN hose and fittings, it is exceedingly rare. Even manufacturers specializing in AN-style fittings strictly for motorsports tend to skip over the 5AN size for the most part. The Good News You can always identify AN fittings based on the male thread size (outside diameter). These sizes are constant regardless of brand, hose type, or fitting configuration. If your fitting has a convex 37 degree flare at the end, the threads will tell you the AN size (and vice-versa). Male Thread Size AN Size* Equivalent Tube Size (Nominal OD) Hose ID** 3/8-24 3AN 3/16" 0.13" ** 7/16-20 4AN 1/4" 0.22" 9/16-18 6AN 3/8" 0.34" 3/4-16 8AN 1/2" 0.44" 7/8-14 10AN 5/8" 0.56" 1 1/16-12 12AN 3/4" 0.69" 1 5/16-12 16AN 1" 0.88"

More is better. or maybe not... Maybe bigger is better... ...or at multiple angles... ...or that just don't go with the rest of the car at all. And maybe they're making a comeback. The End

They're AN line sizes, in 1/16ths of an inch, nominal ID. For example, AN -10 (read AN dash ten) means a hose with an inside diameter of 10/16 of an inch, same as 5/8. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- QUOTE: "Dash sizes, or AN sizes, were first used in military applications, on aircraft, ships, etc., for hydraulic, fuel and coolant plumbing. The tough, braided/reinforced hose, coupled with threaded connections that were reliable in combat conditions, led early racers to buy military surplus hose, hose ends and fittings in the years following WWII and the Korean War. The racing community quickly made this type of plumbing popular, resulting in common use in today’s performance and racing markets. The term AN (a common abbreviation for Army/Navy specification) sticks with us to this day. That’s why the reinforced hose/hose end assemblies we see today are referred to as AN assemblies. So, we refer to these hoses, hose ends and fittings sizes with the word (or symbol) dash, or by the term AN, or by the term -AN. It all means the same thing. For example, “I’m plumbing my fuel system with dash 6 hose” or “I used dash 8 AN hose for my carburetor feed.” When in written form, the dash symbol (-) or the word dash might be used. -AN (ARMY/NAVY) hose sizing is based on single and double-digit identification numbers. Common sizes for performance automotive applications include -3, -4, -6, -8, -10, -12, -16 and -20 (the larger the number, the larger the hose diameter). -3 and -4 sizes are typically used for brake line applications, small oil lines, some small fuel line applications, pressure gauges and vacuum lines. -6 size is typically applicable for fuel and oil plumbing -8 size is typically used for fuel, coolant and oil plumbing -10 size is typically used for oil, fuel or heater hose plumbing -12 size is typically used for coolant, large fuel delivery or dry-sump oil -16 size is typically used for coolant, dry-sump oil or large fuel delivery -20 size is typically used for coolant (radiator hose) What do these AN dash numbers really represent? Actually, there is a logical reason for these numbers, which otherwise might seem like made-up codes. The dash number refers to the hose inside diameter, in denominations of 1/16″ of an inch. For example, a -10 size translates to 10/16″, or 5/8″ inside diameter. This is an easy way to understand dash sizes. Just think in terms of 1/16″ increments. A -6 means that the inside diameter is 6/16″ (or 3/8″). A -8 size is 8/16″ (or 1/2″) inside diameter. Just remember that the format is based on 1/16″. Not to make things confusing, but those 1/16″ increments are “nominal” numbers that indicate the O.D. of the hose end’s internal metal tube (this tube slips into the hose). In reality, most AN hose makers actually make their hoses a bit on the tight-tolerance side, to the tune of about 1/32″ smaller than the theoretical nominal diameter size, which aids in hose sealing onto the hose end’s tube. So, a -6 hose, which theoretically should have an inside diameter of 6/16″ (3/8″ or 12/32″), actually has an inside diameter of 11/32″. Nevertheless, using the 1/16″ theory as your guide will help you to easily visualize what the inside diameter will be. For example, a -6 hose will provide about a 3/8″ I.D. and a -8 hose will provide about a 1/2″ I.D. If you’ve decided that your fuel line should feature a 1/2″ inside diameter, you know that a -8 AN size will be the correct choice. (NOTE: The above sizes are based on Russell hose. Outside diameters may vary among hose manufacturers and among hose materials. Operating pressure ratings will vary depending on the specific type of hose construction). - See more at: http://www.precisionenginetech.com/tech-explained/2009/05/20/an-hose-and-an-hardware-part-1/#sthash.5fzWG7oF.dpuf

Front floorboards are out while the trans bands are being replaced. Hood is off the car during engine work, but is in good shape.

After a fair bit of work... Today... Starting a new life... Coming back together...

You really udder put some wheels on that thing.

Bigger is always better.

The actual sizes on full scale (real) cars have been covered in depth on several threads on the forum. A search should pull up exactly what you need as far as sizes go.

Evergreen's catalog does not appear to list diamond plate currently. However, here's a link to several other brands...some folks like G-scale, some like 1/48 for 1/24-1/25 road vehicle models. http://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8.cgi?cat_s=R&str_s=diamond%20plate