Ace-Garageguy

I agree with Bob that you will definitely want to assemble things like the gearbox, that have visible seams, prior to painting. You'll also want to look at photos of the real parts, and remove the seams from places they don't belong on a real part. Same with mold lines. Especially on a larger scale effort, glue seams and mold lines that have just been painted over really take a model down a notch. I disagree about brush painting small parts, especially in larger scales, if you want top-notch results (which depends on your expectations, no one else's). Removing flash and mold seams and marks from where the part was attached to the sprue is important to do before painting, and then attach the smaller parts to something making them easy to handle for spraying. Some modelers use double-sided tape, toothpicks inserted into holes in the parts, wire, or something like a toothpick temporarily glued the a hidden side of the part.

Actually, the easiest way to differentiate between Gen 1 OHV Olds and Caddy V8 engines is the water crossover / thermostat housing at the front of the engines (the big giveaway that's missing in Greg's blue engine photo). The Caddy has it bolted to the front of the heads, like zo... ...while the Olds has it as an integral part of the intake manifold, bolted on top of the heads, like zees...

Sorry if this sounds harsh, but if you want to "detail" a car, a good place to start might be getting the name right. It's MAL-CO...not MAL-COM. See the difference? No "M" at the end of the word. And for photos and other information, have you heard of doing a google search? It's really easy and produces many pictures like this (and the fotki link above) with a little effort on your part. Here's a brief excerpt from an article on how this first Mustang gasser came to evolve from the Willys, and on to the building of Montgomery's "Mr. Gasket Gasser" Mustang later on. Quoted from www.mustangandfords.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "Montgomery revolutionized the NHRA's "Gasser" class in 1967 with his "Malco Gasser" '67 Mustang fastback. Previously, he had been winning with a supercharged '33 Willys coupe. Running elapsed times in the high 8-second range at about 160 mph, his record-setting Willys caught Ford's attention in the early 1960s. Montgomery remembers getting a call around 1964: "Ford wanted me to do a 289 program but I wasn't interested in that. So I kind of let it go at that." Running supercharged Cadillac and Chevy small-blocks in his Willys, Montgomery was on top of the drag racing world. So he stayed with GM. "Then I got beat at the 1965 Nationals," he explains. "That devastated me because I was used to winning. I had to make a change, so I called Ford back." Once again, Ford asked Montgomery to run the 289. He was more interested in the 427 Cammer. Parts were scarce at that time, but to get Ohio George into the Ford camp, his contact, Charlie Gray, managed to round up some 427 Cammer pieces. "Gray put me in the Lincoln-Mercury group," Montgomery adds. "At the time they also had Fast Eddie Schartman and Dyno Don Nicholson." Montgomery began running and winning with the 427 Cammer in his Willys. But Ford wanted him in a Ford body, not a Willys. "I went to one of the Ford racing banquets and Charlie Gray was bragging about the Willys whipping all the Gassers," Montgomery says. He recalls that one of the Ford executives was named "Frey," most likely Donald Frey, one of the product planners on the original Mustang. Montgomery remembers Frey's comment: "Don't we sell Fords?" "Frey wasn't impressed with the Willys because it wasn't a Ford body," Montgomery adds. “So Gray told me to build a '67 Mustang Gasser. I asked him how was I supposed to do that. He said, 'Just do it.'" With advice from the NHRA, Montgomery lengthened the Willys frame to fit a '67 Mustang body. When he rolled the '67 Mustang—the world's first late-model Gasser—into tech at Bristol, Tennessee, for the Spring Nationals in 1967, the inspectors were confused. Before then, Gassers had been 1930s to mid-1950s production cars, like Montgomery's previous '33 Willys coupe or other flying lunch boxes like the '55 Chevy. On these wild rides, Roots superchargers were common, along with mechanical fuel injection, straight front axle, fiberglass body panels, stripped interiors, and flamboyant paintjobs. Montgomery's Mustang broke with tradition but still fit the technical rules of the Gasser class. The tech inspectors eventually deemed the car legal. But with glassed-over headlights and grille with a slick body, the '67 Mustang held an aerodynamic advantage over Gassers based on antique car bodies."

1) Testor's wet-look clear works very well over Duplicolor metallics. 2, 3) SOMETIMES you can get away with polishing a metallic without clear. TEST FIRST. If it doesn't work, you will have to re-shoot the model with another coat of metallic BEFORE you can clear it. Polishing metallics and pearls before clearing CAN disturb and uncover (unevenly) the little sparkly flakes in the paint, making a blotchy mess. Don't risk it. TEST FIRST. 4) Sharpie

Oh yes, very nice. Great job on the panel lines too.

Well, the elderly neighbor is male, the three-year-old is a tad young, so by the process on elimination we have only one option left. Since she's an alky, I figure I could get her tanked up and whisper sweet manufacturing stories in her ear. edit: OMG !!! There's a black PC-Police helicopter over my house.

It's a generic car term. the "light bucket" or HEADLIGHT bucket is the non-clear (lens) part of the headlight. It's the "bucket" the actual light lives in. Various headlight buckets look like this... The bulb, or bulb-and-lens asembly is separate, and is the "clear" part represented in a model kit.

So, she's, like, available? My kinda gal.

Took most of the day off and did essentially nothing, as it's the first time in months I've had a little breathing room with no time-critical projects with guns to my head. Gonna do it again tomorrow. Might even work on a model car.

Nothing much irked me today other than the inevitable idiot drivers in Buckhead. It's one of the most affluent areas in the country, and the people mostly seem to be entirely too stupid to drive their Mercs, Beemers, Porsches, Jags and Lexi without help. Amazing. All the wealth must be inherited; they're surely too stupid to have actually earned it. Either that, or they're so pre-occupied with all the dollar signs floating around their heads they can't remember the green light means "go", or that two cars can't fit in one parking spot.

Or to coordinate coffee and croissant deliveries to breakout-sessions? Or I could help with rum quality-checking for the inevitable beachside meet-and-greet.

I worked in the "computer department" of a large store part-time many many years ago, and sold some of these technological wonders. Pretty cool old machines and great to see some of them still in operation. Wow. 16k. You can, like, add two numbers and compose a limerick simultaneously.

The FIRST problem was painting a model you care about BEFORE you TESTED the paint material on an identical surface, or over identical undercoats. Many of us on the forum have been harping and harping on the concept of TEST FIRST. Sorry this happened to you, but it's a good lesson. TEST FIRST. Fusion WILL craze MANY of the polystyrene plastics models are made from these days, and it WILL react badly with some other basecoats or paints, AND YOU WON'T KNOW UNTIL YOU RUIN SOMETHING. TEST FIRST.

Whoa. That's pretty cool. I've seen electro-luminescent paint before but not flashing-billboard style.

You're only as old as you feel...

Anybody want to stay current with the developing tech here? It's only a click away. http://3dprintboard.com/forum.php?s=2ba135bb4c8cdcfd6fc838362db2c117

Just because "everybody does it" doesn't make it OK.

In this instance it's vise. "Vice" is what the squad who arrest the bad-girls try to stop. Of course, excessive model building can be considered a "vice" In which case, a vise (pin or bench) helps you to enjoy your vice.

Seems like there was a clear Ford GT40 somewhere along the line.

At least one issue of the AMT '53 Stude had a clear twin-blower hood.

Yeah, I have the Hot Rod mag that had the gold one on the cover. Pretty sure it was on Ford's dyno, factory test engine. I'll have to look it up.

The Visible Woman and a P-51 Mustang were my particular favorites.

Try craft stores like Michaels. Beading wire. Cheap cheap cheap.