Ace-Garageguy

The grille shell is too high relative to the front cowl line.The radiator strut rods are climbing for the sky, towards the front. Not a good look in my opinion. Goofy, actually. Raise the front of the body shell or lower the rad shell. The body is hanging below the frame rails in front, and if it were parallel, the mis-match on the cowl-rad shell line would be better. You can also see the waves and lumps where the roof insert was filled...I think that's what I'm seeing, anyway. Ditch the silly steering wheel, ape-hanger shifter, automatic trans and too-too much cam and induction. (If you keep the overkill carb / manifold setup, maybe check the carb-base angle. It looks like it's down-in-front, and could possibly play jell with float level and idle / drivabliity) Set it up to DRIVE, not just make a lot of noise, with a chain-driven S.C.o.T. bolwer on a Y-block Ford, with a 5-speed. Now THAT would be cool. ......All that said, I still think it's a great looking car, and I'd definitely look more than twice at it at a show or in a mag. So close to perfect, but so far away.........

This is a little weird for me, but if Revell does do a Nascar version of the '57, I could actually get fired up about doing an Olds too, and a Hornet or two, maybe some others. Though I'm not a fan of the rolling advertising that Nascar has become, I really like the old cars, when 'stock car' actually kinda meant race-prepared STOCK CAR. i kind of paid attention to Nascar up until the mid '60s.

That kolor really puts the 'K' in kustom kar. I like it.

Are you building is as a correct representation of the streamlined Attempt One car, or as the basis for another dragster? Or as the bare-chassis version of Attempt ? Goodyear was one of Thompson's major sponsors on his record runs, and that's what was on the car in the NHRA musuem when it was photographed, but the kit slicks, while being Goodyears, aren't the right vintage or width IMHO.

Really really like that build.

Really great looking models.

Dry lakes race car? Early 'slingshot' style dragster with no body? Find a parts-pack T or Bantam body shell and build an altered?

Right now, you can build it in your imagination or in your dreams. I guess that's the '2in1' deal.

WOW ! WOW ! WOW ! That IS fantastic !! Beautiful, beautiful work.

Sorry, but I really don't get this. I've got Revell engines in AMT chassis and bodies and vice-versa. I mean, a Chevy engine doesn't bolt into a Ford, but if you know what you're doing, anything fits ANYTHING.

I don't know.....I build primarily 1/25 because that's what most hot-rod kits are. i also like historic race cars, and there are quite a few in 1/24 and 1/25, so I buy whatever strikes my fancy at the time. I like traditional customs too, and again the basic material seems to be primarily 1/25, but one of my best models to date is a radical custom 1/24 muscle car. I never thought in a million years I'd build a 1/24 muscle car. I also like European exotics and vintage sports cars, and buy whatever scale offers the car of interest. And like I said above, I'll swap stuff between 1/25 and 1/24 IF there is a valid reason, if it LOOKS right, etc. I've got some 1/8 kits started, some 1/8 and 1/10 scratchbuilt projects going, and several 1/12 and 1/16, and even an oddball 1/20 McLaren in the stash, just because I like the subject of all of them. I'd never display 1/25 models on the same shelf as the large scales, but definitely on the same wall. Of course I like MOST types of cars too....hot-rods, really well-done tuners and lowriders, old sports cars and vintage anything...drag and road racers....Fords, Chevys and Mopars....Porsches and Jags and Alfa Romeos. What's not to like? The only thing that REALLY bothers me about the concept of "scale" is when the kit manufacturers don't seem to understand it, like the joke of a motor in the newer-release Ala Kart, or the fact that NO TWO of the available '34 Fords in the same scale have the same length hood, whereas ALL the real '34 Fords had the same length hood. I guess measuring accurately and dividing correctly is just too tough.

Swapping parts between scales can be problematical, as jantrix points out, and sometimes it can work to advantage. I've found a good source of 16" 1/25 narrow-tread, wide whitewalls and steel wheels to come from 15" 1/24 scale parts. And sometimes, oddly, I just don't care.....like if there's a 1/24 subject ('40 ford pickup) that I really love and can't get in 1/25. i'll even swap in a wrong-scale engine. Situational scale-ethics.

Hey, thanks for all the interest and comments. She's going to get built (first) to the first look, but now I'm agonizing over the hood sides. if you look carefully at the first profile, you'll see the rear edge of the last vent is parallel with the front of the cowl, but the top edges of the vents are going down towards the front, relative to the character line of the Ford hood. The grille shell is at the right height, and the line from the top of the cowl on to the hood is continuous, with no kinks. That means I'll have to adjust the character lihe / hinge line of the hood, but THAT will make it not-parallel with the character line on the door. The problem also is that the openings in the hood sides already fit exactly the chromed '32 Chevy vents. I don't want to rework all of that. Bugger.

Frankly, I've had it up to here......with being nickel and dimed for licensing fees on damb near everything, product-placement in films, constant intrusive ads everywhere, and greed greed greed greed greed. Gotta get every last penny for NOTHING, while the bucks they could be making for actually doing SOMETHING are ignored. Get rid of the marketing morons and the attorneys scamming for a few cents each for a logo on a model car tire, and get back to making scale models that modelers actually want, with less than a 5-year lead time. I can get all the "branded" tires I want, or actual CHRYSLER valve covers to go on my vintage Hemi (the silly hemi in the Revell '32 5-window doesn't even have symmetrical EXHAUST PORT SPACING, ya know, like a real one? Is that another way around the royalty trap? What is it supposed to be, anyway?) in vintage kits, or I can cast my own without anything going to support some royalty weasel. When every business is trying to get a free ride on every other business's back, the consumer gets sfrewed. And don't even get me started on Nascar. There was a time when companies like Goodyear promoted themselves by doing cool stuff, for free. Anybody remember the tires for Mickey Thompson's Challenger !? Hugely expensive R&D program. Free. And the car couldn't have been built without them. Pretty good marketing I'd say......that was in 1961 or 2, and I STILL have a lasting favorable impression of Goodyear. But pay another dollar to get the name embossed on a set of model car tires? You're kidding, right?

Pretty. I bought one of those a while back thinking of doing something like that, but I don't have the BMF skills like you. Maybe next year... Yours is a really beautiful model.

I've been using ebay / paypal for over 5 years, have over 1000 transactions with a "personal account". It's all you need to do what you want to do. I do buy-it-nows and take instant payments all the time, and it never takes more than 3 or 4 days max to get my money into my linked bank account. However, you MUST link at least one bank account (two and a credit card is better) to your paypal account to have any kind of timely processing and convenience. If you have linked accounts, you're not limited by what's in your paypal account. I've sold stuff all over the country and to England, France, Germany and Spain with never a problem with currency exchange or lost funds......... A "premium account" lets you accept payments directly from credit cards, etc. with attached additional fees. If you only accept payments from paypal account holders, which is just about everyone, you don't need premium. There is also an "internet merchant account' which is un-necessary if you're small time. If paypal is holding funds for newbies, it's to cover their backsides, because they and ebay GUARANTEE SATISFACTION to both parties involved in a transaction, and they actually stand behind both buyers and sellers. All of which still makes me wonder why so many people call it "fee bay" and "evil bay". The truth is, there's NO WAY IN JELL I could have sold a Lamborghini crankshaft to a guy in Spain without ebay / paypal. It works, it's secure, the fees are worth what you get in return....a GLOBAL market. And the best thing to do is to read the FAQs and instructions on the PAYPAL SITE. They'll tell you the RIGHT ANSWERS.

I haven't dug out my material on the Attempt yet, but I have a feeling you're right about the slick width. Accelerating the extra rotating-mass of an un-necessarily wide slick would be a detriment to vehicle acceleration Revell did make two widths of M&Hs, 10s and 8s I think, that may fit the kit wheels correctly. Right off hand I don't know of any 8" goodyears. I'm pretty sure AMT also made narrower M&Hs and also Firestones, way back when. A quick google search turned up images of Attempt in the NHRA Museum, and those don't appear to be 10" slicks in the photo. The front tires don't match the kit offerings either. http://www.tachrev.c...A_Museumpg4.htm

Oh......and the traditional version..........wide whites, moon caps, very slightly shorter wheelbase and not as much nose-down rake.....

Doing this one for the 'AMT '32 Ford Community-Build'. Salvaged gluebomb. Chopped about 3.5 scale inches, no channel. '32 Chevy-style hood sides. '30-'31 Model A-style visor over the windshield. Right now the plan is to do a contemporary car with a traditional flavor. Multi-carb Caddy power. We'll see.

First mockup. '32 5W coupe, about a 3.5" scale chop, no channel. '30-'31 style visor over the windshield. '32 Chevy-style hood sides. Engine will probably be a multi-carb Caddy if I stay contemporary. Or maybe a 406 Ford. Pegasus wheels will run knockoffs.

Very, very nice build.

This is a great idea...combining those two.....yup, I'm really going to like seeing this one.

Thanks Bryan. The DuVall is from the AMT '32 Phantom Vickie.

It's by CQ, and called "rustic dream". From one angle it flashes to a sort of magenta too. I'll probably try it over a white base, and also a Testors Flaming Orange one-coat lacquer base to see which comes closest to what I have in mind.

Yes, kinda. One of my exes that I'm still friends with brought me some flip-flop orange / copper pearl nail polish while I was doing the Gearz-loser chopped '70 Chevelle. I didn't have time to airbrush anything under deadline, but this little truck will get that really really cool color. IF I can get it right.