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Ace-Garageguy

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Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy

  1. Pre-painted... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Archaeopteryx-4-1-8in-Series-Dinosaurs-Safari-Ltd-302829-/381973367678?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0 https://bigamart.com/product/papo-55034-archaeopteryx-figure/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=571020&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjO76mJmS5QIVQpyzCh2H-AEwEAQYBCABEgIf3vD_BwE
  2. Superman publisher beats Kryptonite Federal judge refuses to dismiss DC Comics effort to block Kryptonite Lock from expanding its brand. September 23, 2004: 7:40 AM EDT NEW YORK (CNN/Money) - Kryptonite may hurt Superman, but it wasn't able to defeat the company that publishes his comic books in a federal court case. Federal Judge Richard Owen refused to throw out a breach of contract claim that DC Comics filed against Kryptonite Corp., the bicycle lock company, according to the electronic court docket for the U.S. District Court of the Southern District of New York.
  3. Starke conversion for the Boxster... and a widebody 550...
  4. Look at how many passenger cars are built, even here on this little ol' site, as opposed to how many historic or vintage drag-cars are built. Gassers mostly, some SS and AFX cars, a few funnies, very few vintage altereds or competition coupes or street-roadsters (the drag-racing class) or old front-engined, short-wheelbase rails, which is what these Revell kits are for. That's all I'm saying. We old guys are constantly berated for living in the past, but lotsa stuff for building vintage drag cars (as above) is readily available pretty cheap on eBay, and we don't see many getting built.
  5. Probably correct. Mostly only modelers who fall in the old-geezer mold, who have an interest in building historically and technically accurate models of rather obsolete subjects, and those who actually understand how a car works would be interested. Kinda limits the appeal. Me? I'd buy multiples if they were ever brought back, but as I already have enough to last the rest of my life anyway (and the ability to make resin repops if I live long enough to run out), I won't lose any sleep either way.
  6. His resin listings change occasionally, apparently as he casts stuff to fill demand. I've been very happy overall with his parts and kits. His Corvair rampside pickup, for example, is about as good as resin gets when it's not a copy of vintage styrene parts. He does a split-window Bug too, by the way.
  7. Hey...this is 2019. Whatever identifies as a gasser is a gasser.
  8. A little 120-pound girl with toothpick arms can take out a 250-pound guy with a 20-pound hammer any day of the week.
  9. Hit him with an atomic disruptor ray and there won't be anything left to regenerate...
  10. But it turned out that the reality the video game existed in was a simulation, so I sent in Agent Smith...
  11. The Cash For Clunkers law required dealers to destroy the engines with a sodium silicate solution (liquid glass) instead of oil.
  12. And this should pretty well do a number on the knife...
  13. The best design will be a scaled-down finger brake, as used for real sheetmetal...only much smaller. Here are some recommendations...
  14. Pete's advice is right on target. Rod works pretty easily, and unless you really need a deep and obvious open end, it's the way to go. HOWEVER...since you already have the tube, watch the video below. Several commercial benders are available that work on the same principle on tube down to 1/8", and if you have some fabricating skills and access to a lathe, you can easily make something similar that will work on tube as small as you could possibly need to go. NOTE: I personally don't have much use for the "spring" type of bending sleeves (K&S etc.). They still allow kinks if you're not extremely careful. They can also be almost impossible to remove if you try to get sharp-radius bends. The oft-repeated "fill the tube with sand (or ice)" works OK on real-world size tube, but you need extremely fine-grained sand to work on model sizes. NOTE 2: For some sizes of tube, you can insert a length of close-fitting soft iron wire in your tube to help prevent kinking. Soft iron wire is generally sold as tie-wire or fence-wire.
  15. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nine-O-Nine
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