Ace-Garageguy

Unfortunately, the DK effect doesn't really seem to adversely affect those most afflicted with it with any regularity, particularly as you go higher up the socio-economic ladder. Just look at the state of the economy, health-care and myriad other systems closely and critically and you'll see it's flourishing all around us, and damm hard to stop once it's taken control.

It's wonderful to see that several people have made contributions to Harry's gofundme cancer account recently, and even the smallest ones are MUCH appreciated and go to help Harry in his fight for life. But come on the rest of you...this is about helping to save someone's life, and the someone is a guy who's done a ton for the modeling community and for this site and for every single person who ever saw his models and was inspired. Every little bit helps, so PLEASE CONTRIBUTE WHATEVER YOU CAN. It's quick and easy on any credit or debit card and is 100% safe. https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w

It's wonderful to see that several people have made contributions to Harry's gofundme cancer account recently, and even the smallest ones are MUCH appreciated and go to help Harry in his fight for life. But come on the rest of you...this is about helping to save someone's life, and the someone is a guy who's done a ton for the modeling community and for this site and for every single person who ever saw his models and was inspired. Every little bit helps, so PLEASE CONTRIBUTE WHATEVER YOU CAN. It's quick and easy on any credit or debit card and is 100% safe. https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w

I've tried several of the solders for pot-metal over the years, and though they sometimes work well, they sometimes don't. I've experimented with them specifically to try to save cast pot-metal real-car parts that were other wise unavailable.The term "pot-metal" is applied to the material because it can be whatever happens to be in the pot. Sometimes the "special" solder will flow and stick beautifully, sometimes not. Metallic composition varies wildly from manufacturer to manufacturer, especially with die-cast models, and very often, the same manufacturer will make models out of different materials. I've also encountered castings that were so porous they'd pop and spit when even mildly heated, or simply crumble. It can be an expensive and disheartening experience to buy the equipment and special solder and then to have the part you're working on destroyed entirely, even if you use exactly the same technique that you've used successfully on other parts. Slow-curing epoxy is almost foolproof, and doesn't present the risk of having the part melt or crumble. Just remember that with epoxies, in general, the slower the product cures, the stronger it will be. 30-minute epoxy makes much stronger bonds than 5-minute stuff.

A slow-setting epoxy is your best bet.

Sorry...I didn't even look at your name under your avatar. Duh. Nice work, man. Damm. The skinny wheels work a lot better, too.

Or a mashup with a '34-ish Ford pickup.

Knockout idea. Who is C. Drysdale?

AGREED!! She'll need a mild sectioning job to match the rendering, but it will be worth it. This one may now have to move back to the head of the list, at least as a curbside. A forward-swept windshield like that was used on several pre-WW II aircraft, and could be thought of as a subtle nod to the Lycoming engine in the original Cord.

No "ruckus", nothing to be sorry for. The OP learned something and will have a better model as a result, I learned something (several things, actually) and we're all adults here...at least those of us who appreciate constructive criticism and correct information. Nobody got rude, nobody felt threatened or had to resort to calling names, and most importantly, again, the OP will have a better model as a result of the exchange. If we can't offer helpful advice because somebody might act like a baby, it's a sorry thing indeed. And if you ever see anything that looks wrong on MY models, PLEASE SPEAK UP.

I agree about the "steamrollers". One of the reasons this one only made it this far was just that, coupled with my (somewhat) desire to keep it front-wheel-drive. That of course would mean same-size tires all around (wider fronts would look incredibly dorky, obviously, on a fenderless car). But I think it would look better as a rear-wheel-drive vehicle, with the big-n-little setup that looks right. The windshield was another sticking point. I didn't like any of the early mockups I did, either split DuVall-style or raked compound-curved contemporary. Thinking about combining the two, but that hasn't happened yet.

Thanks to everyone for your interest and comments. I like yours too, but as you say, I want to retain more of the Cord initial impression. Thinking of putting a quick-change gearbox, turned around, peeking out the front too.

Yes. Man, I LIKE that idea. Lotsa work to do it right, but sure would be different. Hmmmmm. Thanks to everyone for your interest and comments.

Thanks for the interest and comments, gentlemen. The more I look at this, the easier I think it might be to at least finish it to "curbside" status. It might make it to the short list, behind the 3 currently on the bench...the one's I'm trying to stay focused on through completion.

Fine old equipment. I still use a Dual 1219 turntable. Primary amp is a '75 414 Fisher 4-channel. My prize speakers are custom 3-way floor-standing Fuseliers. After blowing the original woofers, I replaced them and modified the crossovers somewhat. They image as cleanly and realistically as anything I've ever heard. I also have a mix of other more recent components.

When they're recessed below the rim like that, they're kinda tricky. The best way would be to chuck the wheel in a lathe, and turn the boss off. A milling machine would also work well. Barring that, I'd probably try a drill bit the same diameter as the outside diameter of the boss, and twist it slowly and carefully, by hand, until you've just shaved the ring off flush with the center.

This is the last of the stillborn projects for today. It started as a partial AMT "Black Force" slammer kit...which has some interesting lines and great wheels and tires, but I always found the proportions to be unsettling. The photo immediately below is NOT my model, but it shows the kit in stock configuration. I started by shortening the hood considerably, and then channeling the main body down between the fenders. The first iteration was going to be a half-top "town car" style '40s custom. Then, with a roof change, it began to evolve into a contemporary retro-classic style custom.

Doesn't happen often, but every now and then I finish one... And some get real close...

Another stillborn project from years back. A gluebomb-save that never got past the first mockup. Power was to have been a supercharged DOHC '31 Caddy V-12, GM auto box.

I was going through old photos looking for pix of a 1:1 project and came across these. Started this one many years back, never got any farther than a first mockup.

OK...I'm wrong. Just goes to show that speaking before double checking makes one look like an idiot. However, in the old days, Gilmer belts were routinely tensioned on the smooth side by some builders, the reasoning being that a vibration was introduced into the assembly from the teeth running over a smooth tensioner pulley. The rest of the reasoning was that the high-frequency vibration could cause early failure of the bearings on the blower snout. Putting the tensioner on the back, smooth side of the belt also gives more "wrap" and tends to engage more of the teeth both on the crank and blower snout pulleys, which has the effect of lowering the loads on individual belt teeth. Though these are the only shots I could find of that arrangement in a 30-second search, I've seen it often, and recently...but I was entirely wrong about "always". Older design belts could be tensioned from either side, but from my research just now, I see that the manufacturers of newer design belts recommend tensioning on the tooth side only. NOTE: I'm NOT arguing with comp1839. He's actively involved with drag-racing today, and knows his stuff. I've been away from the sport for over 20 years.

In the Philippines when that shot was taken. She's since been restored. Full story here...http://theoldmotor.com/?p=158210

You are correct. The tensioner ALWAYS runs on the smooth backside of the belt (the inside of the belt would be toothed to engage the teeth on the drive pulleys). That would probably take the excess slack out of the belts on the model as well.

A little rougher...

Looking good. Those big Lindberg kits have a lot of potential. though it's unlikely any rails were actually built with a pair of Ford Y-blocks, which is what those engines are closest to. Nice work, and looking forward to seeing it come together.