Ace-Garageguy

In the Philippines when that shot was taken. She's since been restored. Full story here...http://theoldmotor.com/?p=158210

You are correct. The tensioner ALWAYS runs on the smooth backside of the belt (the inside of the belt would be toothed to engage the teeth on the drive pulleys). That would probably take the excess slack out of the belts on the model as well.

A little rougher...

Looking good. Those big Lindberg kits have a lot of potential. though it's unlikely any rails were actually built with a pair of Ford Y-blocks, which is what those engines are closest to. Nice work, and looking forward to seeing it come together.

Love the color, paint looks great.

Come on people...PLEASE dig deep and lets get some momentum going here. For those who may not know the entire story, Harry Pristovnik is a long-time moderator here and a builder of very fine models. He gave of his time for FREE for years to help keep this site going and running smoothly. He also worked tirelessly as editor and doing layout work for the magazine itself. Not long ago, he was diagnosed with cancer (after having severe night-time pain). He began improving with the radiation treatments, but when he started chemo, it triggered a massive heart attack. He almost died, and since then, he's literally been fighting for his life. His insurance hasn't been much help, and he can't work to generate income. He's also alone much of the time, and is fighting depression. WE ARE HIS EXTENDED FAMILY, and WE ALL NEED TO GET ON BOARD AND SHOW HIM HOW MUCH WE REALLY CARE. This is a man who's given a LOT to the modeling community...and as Tom said, now is the time to show some appreciation. PLEASE GIVE WHATEVER YOU CAN GIVE. It's easy on any credit card, only takes a few minutes, and it's 100% legit and secure. https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w

Come on people...PLEASE dig deep and lets get some momentum going here. For those who may not know the entire story, Harry Pristovnik is a long-time moderator here and a builder of very fine models. He gave of his time for FREE for years to help keep this site going and running smoothly. He also worked tirelessly as editor and doing layout work for the magazine itself. Not long ago, he was diagnosed with cancer (after having severe night-time pain). He began improving with the radiation treatments, but when he started chemo, it triggered a massive heart attack. He almost died, and since then, he's literally been fighting for his life. His insurance hasn't been much help, and he can't work to generate income. He's also alone much of the time, and is fighting depression. WE ARE HIS EXTENDED FAMILY, and WE ALL NEED TO GET ON BOARD AND SHOW HIM HOW MUCH WE REALLY CARE. This is a man who's given a LOT to the modeling community...and as Tom said, now is the time to show some appreciation. PLEASE GIVE WHATEVER YOU CAN GIVE. It's easy on any credit card, only takes a few minutes, and it's 100% legit and secure. https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w

Come on people...PLEASE dig deep and lets get some momentum going here. For those who may not know the entire story, Harry Pristovnik is a long-time moderator here and a builder of very fine models. He gave of his time for FREE for years to help keep this site going and running smoothly. He also worked tirelessly as editor and doing layout work for the magazine itself. Not long ago, he was diagnosed with cancer (after having severe night-time pain). He began improving with the radiation treatments, but when he started chemo, it triggered a massive heart attack. He almost died, and since then, he's literally been fighting for his life. His insurance hasn't been much help, and he can't work to generate income. He's also alone much of the time, and is fighting depression. WE ARE HIS EXTENDED FAMILY, and WE ALL NEED TO GET ON BOARD AND SHOW HIM HOW MUCH WE REALLY CARE. This is a man who's given a LOT to the modeling community...and as Tom said, now is the time to show some appreciation. PLEASE GIVE WHATEVER YOU CAN GIVE. It's easy on any credit card, only takes a few minutes, and it's 100% legit and secure. https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w

Come on people...PLEASE dig deep and lets get some momentum going here. For those who may not know the entire story, Harry Pristovnik is a long-time moderator here and a builder of very fine models. He gave of his time for FREE for years to help keep this site going and running smoothly. He also worked tirelessly as editor and doing layout work for the magazine itself. Not long ago, he was diagnosed with cancer (after having severe night-time pain). He began improving with the radiation treatments, but when he started chemo, it triggered a massive heart attack. He almost died, and since then, he's literally been fighting for his life. His insurance hasn't been much help, and he can't work to generate income. He's also alone much of the time, and is fighting depression. WE ARE HIS EXTENDED FAMILY, and WE ALL NEED TO GET ON BOARD AND SHOW HIM HOW MUCH WE REALLY CARE. This is a man who's given a LOT to the modeling community...and as Tom said, now is the time to show some appreciation. PLEASE GIVE WHATEVER YOU CAN GIVE. It's easy on any credit card, only takes a few minutes, and it's 100% legit and secure. https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w

Excellent THANK YOU (for Harry's sake). Everything helps him, and your contribution to the cause is very much appreciated. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Come on people...PLEASE dig deep and lets get some momentum going here. For those who may not know the entire story, Harry Pristovnik is a long-time moderator here and a builder of very fine models. He gave of his time for FREE for years to help keep this site going and running smoothly. He also worked tirelessly as editor and doing layout work for the magazine itself. Not long ago, he was diagnosed with cancer (after having severe night-time pain). He began improving with the radiation treatments, but when he started chemo, it triggered a massive heart attack. He almost died, and since then, he's literally been fighting for his life. His insurance hasn't been much help, and he can't work to generate income. He's also alone much of the time, and is fighting depression. WE ARE HIS EXTENDED FAMILY, and WE ALL NEED TO GET ON BOARD AND SHOW HIM HOW MUCH WE REALLY CARE. This is a man who's given a LOT to the modeling community...and as Tom said, now is the time to show some appreciation. PLEASE GIVE WHATEVER YOU CAN GIVE. It's easy on any credit card, only takes a few minutes, and it's 100% legit and secure. https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w

Working pretty good most of today, no hanging until after I logged in just now...which I usually don't bother to do just to read and look at pictures. No changes on my end, just a mystery improvement in performance of the site.

I always liked the Sterling from day one. It's by far one of the best-looking original-design kit cars ever built, and has tremendous potential as the basis for something relatively cheap that looks wild and exotic.

I can certainly identify with that. I've got multiple builds hanging fire primarily because the real-car primers I've been using for years with 100% reliable, predictable results all seem to have been reformulated recently, and the kit plastics have become less solvent-resistant. I was always able to get first-rate finishes from rattlecans, but these days, it's hit-or-miss. Most of my work involves a lot of custom bodywork, so if I lay down a carp paint-job, I can't just dunk the whole thing in stripper and start over...as the strippers take the fillers off too. I haven't tried the PreVal units in several years, so the quality control may be better than I remember. And it MAY be possible to swap the nozzle for what comes on Tamiya cans. Several folks have done just that with non-Tamiya rattlecans and have achieved much better results.

I started a twin-turbine / electric hybrid sometime back, propulsion system loosely based on the Jag C-X75. A similar system could be fitted to just about anything.

Written by a gifted model builder http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Gould2.htm

Poor little car. Going to be tough to restore that one. Realistic and evocative...I found a surprising number of vehicles in similar condition at the bottom of washes and ravines last time I went junk-prospecting out west.

So that's where the phantom V-12 was going. Cool concept, nicely built.

Very clean craftsmanship and fit. Well done.

Calling something "junk" or "garbage" without particular elaboration as to WHY it's being called names is as useful as saying it's goo goo gaa gaa poo poo doo doo. One would hope we are all capable of imparting more adult and worthwhile information. Citing specific personal first-hand experience goes a long way in that direction.

Fine looking little model. I recall when you got this one...turned out beautifully.

How about that...I didn't realize this was already a 1:1. No wonder I thought it would make a great one.

I agree with most everything Art has to say here...except...in my own experience, I've had adhesion issues with 5-minute I haven't had with the longer-cure stuff I generally use. What this has translated to for me has been a failure to featheredge as nicely, and an occasional tendency to pull up at the edge when subsequently hit with hot-solvent primers. This would be in keeping with the general rule-of-thumb regarding epoxies...the longer they take to set and cure fully, the harder, tougher and more chemical resistant they are, and the better they adhere to a substrate. PS. This is the phenolic product, reddish-brown. There is another lightweight inert filler / thickening agent you all may be interested in called "fumed silica". http://www.christinedemerchant.com/filler-silica.html

Performance is very similar. I use the glass usually for plastic models when I have it in stock, simply because it's white and covers more readily with primer. http://www.ez.org/canardpages/pages/chasingmars/Misc/Phenolic vs Glass K20 micro.pdf

Somehow, I kinda doubt it.

At this point, I'm thinking a combination of several suggestions here is going to be the way to go. Thread of the right color and diameter, de-fuzzed with wax or white glue or something else, striped with the Sharpie. I'm gonna try it.