David Thibodeau

More done on this one!!! The engine is mounted and the radiator and hoses all hooked up. Everything fit flawlessly. The entire suspension is complete along with exhaust. Various metalizer paint was used for the exhaust, rear diff, and driveshaft. Brakes are not very detailed but I checked the wheel in place and it looks fine regardless. The Brembo decals are included in the kit.

From what I researched, that side exhaust is merey for sound on the BOSS version. It barely has any exhaust flowing through it. Its just for sound from which I have heard is incredible!

actually they are very comfortable in that position because you can rest your head against them but still look forward while driving.....

Its like that on the real car and adjustable. My wifes fusion seats are the same way

I would have added them but was instructed to build it box stock. Thanks

Yes I did... the way it was printed it will not lay down totally straight and parallel... it wants to yaw out at the bottom... Its not that noticeable.... Decals are finicky too arent they?

I get to keep it... Thanks

No worries.... I like this look.... right or wrong! Thanks,

Lots of micro-sol...... They behaved pretty well on the interior paint but were finicky on the body....

I knocked the interior out this weekend. It was all done with Scalefinishes Black interior paint over duplicolor grey filler primer. I gotta say again.... it goes together extremely well and is very accurate. Revell gives you all the decals needed including the AIR BAG tags for the front seats. If one was to add seatbelts and flocking it would look perfect. I did mine stock and it still looks great. The stripes on the seats are also decal. The trickiest part is the silver on the dash. That was done by hand with testors lacquer bottle silver.

By the time Revell ships them off to all the distributors it will most likely be mid to late Sept.....

Too late Chuck!! Maybe the black underside/rusty/copper treatment is an option? Interesting info though.... Anyways... I resprayed the chassis semigloss black (duplicolor). Then I applied Tamiya dark copper with a flat brush. Its not the exact color but that color is funky! I think it needs to be a custom mix. I like the outcome. I detail painted the bolts, fuel lines, and added a black wash here and there. definitely different than I thought it was! Thanks to all for the reference pics especially Mr K.

I plan on doing my chassis as a super clean right off the assembly line but with the steel natural axle color. I have already started the transformation. That amber orangish rust protective primer is no an easy color to replicate! I am using tamiya dark copper. Its pretty close. I plan on adding some factory markings as well thanks for the compliments... with some detail painting it should create some nice visual interest....

Thank you for that reference photo.....I will make the necessary corrections on my build. DaveT

I let Ed Sexton at Revell know that the red decal on the sheet for the top edge of the spoiler incorrect. They must have thought that was a 3rd brake light. It is actually an adjustable "Gurney flap" on the 1:1 car. I cut out a piece of Studio 27 Hi Def 1/12 CF decal and applied it over the red decal that was there. Is it CF on the real car? Probably not but it looks cool!! All the lower rear quarter, rockers, and front splitter have been painted semi gloss black. Now its interior and chassis time!

Well I have not worked on a real shelby unfortunately so I went with my gut instinct and will continue to do so. Lets look at an update of this controversial kit judging by the various opinions shall we? Well I got the engine painted and detailed. despite its simplicity, it looks incredibly accurate! Revell gives yu some key decals to enhance the simple engine to give it more realism and dimension. I painted the block with Tamiya TS-30 Silverleaf. The supercharger and valve covers were painted with Tamiya Semi gloss black. Exhaust and intake were shot with metallizer titanium. Various acrylics were used for detail painting and washes. just to get an idea of the size here is the engine next to a NASCAR project I am working on.

Well after a few nights of polishing with my arms almost falling off I got the paint very smooth. Then I applied the decal stripes. Be careful with them! They are thin, stick very easy and dont work really well with micro sol. But they hardly bleed at all. I used them for the sake of the review so everyone can see how they look. The 1:1 stripes are vinyl so using the decals is correct. But, painted stripes would also look very nice. I painted the chassis grey and fogged in some Grabber blue basecoat.

Thanks guys, Well I know how Sherman feels now.... Big scale bodies are not easy to paint! It took 3 ounces of scale finishes Ford CI Grabber blue. Then it was covered in 4 ounces of omni clear. I did this all with a medium tip badger 350. It needs polishing in a few areas but nothing 2000 grit and compound won't fix. Ford Grabber blue is a very cool color....

September release and it will retail in the 65 dollar range I believe.... Thanks guys...... More progress... I cleaned up the body with 600 grit paper and put it in primer. Duplicolor filler primer which is kind to the new revell plastic if it is put on in light coats. Minimal clea up was required. The body is very clean, well proportioned and realisitic! For some reason the passenger door required deepening of the panel lines with a scriber. The door lines were a little light on this side. I set the rear wing on the trunk but it will be painted separately. A quick mock up..... It barely fits in my booth! By the way, I will be painting it with Scalefinishes grabber blue.

I mentioned I stripped the chrome off the wheels which I did with castrol superclean. Then I sealed them and painted them with a duplicolor chrome enamel silver paint sprayed directly from the can. Looks like it paid off! I carefully installed them after they dried a day and applied the SVT center logos. The more polished or painted look is a definite improvement over the kit chrome. I assembled the engine block and accessories as well. Nicey engraved and detailed castings. I will get it i paint when I restock my paint supply this week.

Wheels and tires; Nice molded rubber vinyl tires with accurate eagle F1 street rubber tread but no logos on the side walls molded in. High good year license fees!! The wheels were chrome plated but I stripped them here already and shot them in duplicolor chrome paint to give them a toned down look . More suspension , grill, and engine parts. The grills look nice and are molded open! Door panels, and the remainder of the chrome tree. Clear parts tree... its nice to see the front and rear glass packaged in separate baggies to prevent scratches! Finally, the decal sheet. Well done and will be used in the build. Even the stripes! Stay tuned for the complete build..... Dave T

I was asked by Ed Sexton from Revell to do a review of the new Mustang GT500 in 1/12 scale. I received the kit on Friday and was anxious to open the kit to check it out.... Here is what I discovered: The box art: As I assumed; This thing is a monster as you can see with a 1/24 scale model next to it! The body proportions look spot on and is crisply molded. The only dissapointment to me is the molded in doors. It looks like Revell continues the tradition of molded doors even on big scale kits. On a positive note atleast there is no warpage to deal with if the doors were molded as separate pieces. Some parts are molded in black. Here is the exhaust, Suspension, and firewall components. Nicely molded from the look of things. Interior components molded nicely.The main interior pan will be tricky to paint since the front engine bay needs to be body color. I was puzzled why the kit was not all molded in white like most of their new kits are but it wont be a problem. The chassis pan. Again molded in black, but to do it correct it needs to be done in slvers,primers, and body color overspray.

Some do some don't.... I saw Jeff's 2005 500 Winner at Daytona USA and the entire car, contingencies, numbers, flames, all were clear coated. My assumption is the higher dollar teams ( what are not high dollar these days?) massage the bodies for the big SS tracks especially and clear the decals and all to create less drag.

this has been a topic of controversy for a long time Harry.... older cars had duller paint schemes but a newer cup car such as this one would be very clean, smooth and shiny. In fact alot of teams clear over all the decals at a Superspeedway track such as Daytona, which this car ran at in 2002 at the Pepsi 400 in July. Thanks for the question and I hope it does not spark a bunch of wars... DaveT

Well I got i all decaled in the last few days. The sheet was quite challenging to apply. Despite them not bleeding at all the drawback was they needed gallons of micro sol to lay down! I heated up the fun room because I was slinging so much micro sol and running the hair dryer!. I think it paid off... very minimal polishing is needed after I applied two coats of Omni clear... quite a stunning paint scheme!