Monty

I'm not sure why it changed since I've never played with the font size. According to the option list, this is size 12. Any better?

It might help to know if you're using enamels like Testors/Model Master or lacquers like Testors One Coat or Tamiya's TS series. Also, when you say "best place to buy" are you looking for the most comprehensive selection of brands? Lowest prices? Sometimes those are mutually exclusive.

Ed, if you're not averse to doing business online, you can still get them fairly cheaply. Here are the places I buy most of mine: http://www.hobbylinc.com/airfix_hobby_and_model_enamel_paint http://www.redfroghobbies.com/humbrol.htm Hobbylinc has the cheapest Humbrol prices I've been able to find, but it always takes about two days for your order to be pulled and shipped. RedFrog is only 20¢ more per tin, and they ship a little quicker.

Bill, I love what you did with this truck! I wouldn't have thought to use those two colors together, but they really complement each other well. I like your combination of well-cared-for body, weathered chassis and tired engine. Nicely done! I'm stymied by one thing, though. What are the two hexagonal holes in the black sheetmetal behind the grille? Lastly, do you recall which kit those wheels came from? They were a great choice for this project.

Maybe they live in the West End http://t0.gstatic.co...KQ9rEGES04G_c1v

I had some of the originals such as the Stiletto http://t0.gstatic.co...0mR_YG0IzTcOmQO the Turbine http://www.toycollec...2jjof7z5j6y.jpg the Nucleon http://www.toycollec...5j3cqkj0vmd.jpg and the Glasser, which I won at a Cub Scout meeting. I didn't know what all the "plumbing" on it was for, but apparently they made a whole set of cars that could be run off of compressed air http://t2.gstatic.co...F6OkqyvPYYvSRqQ

Even all-black interiors have different shades of black. As Marc has suggested, you'll need different shades such as a semi-gloss for vinyl or leather seats, gloss black for hard plastics such as you'd find on some steering wheels, & flat black for shifter boots & carpet (assuming you don't flock it) Testors semi-gloss has a slightly different sheen than Tamiya acrylic gloss, which gives you a couple choices. Humbrol Coal Black (#85) is a satin black, and the railroad guys have several shades of black from Floquil / Polly S / Polly Scale. If that's not enough, all of these can be augmented with Testors Flat, Semi-Gloss and Gloss sprays. These same techniques apply to the engine bay as well, where there are a variety of shades of black.

Anybody know the status of the molds for this? Did MPC use this as the basis for the Little Re Express/Warlock?

Here's an answer I received on another forum. It may prove informative. Metallic particles only bounce light in 1 direction. Mica chips, being crystals, bounce the light in multiple directions at once giving a different kind of "sparkle" or glow. Also, mica chips can be ground finer than metallic flakes giving us modelers a more in-scale effect.

I made a mental note of your vinyl top technique. I've got a couple tunnelback cars where your spray method should be easier than using masking tape etc to represent vinyl. What's your secret for doing the raised "wires" on the firewall so neatly?

So realistic you can hear the Lucas electrical system not working. Beautiful work on that car! Can't wait to see what you do next.

I assume the metallic has a smaller flake, but I've never used the stuff (yet). I'm asking partly because I don't want to end up with bass-boat metal flake paint, but also because I notice Tamiya carries TS-19 Metallic Blue, TS-54 Light Metallic Blue, TS-53 Deep Metallic Blue as well as TS-50 Blue Mica & TS-64 Dark Mica Blue.

Excellent! I know I have the Boyd's True Blue. I'll dig around and see if I have the TS-50.

Good to know! I wasn't aware of that. Thanks! When I'm tracking down 1:1 car colors, I like this site: http://paintref.com/paintref/index.shtml

This is an early '70s color GM listed as Chevrolet Mulsanne blue, Pontiac Lucerne blue, Olds Viking blue & Buick Stratomist blue.

That is an incredibly impressive build of that kit. Beautiful shade of red - would you mind telling us what paint you used? Is any of the white done with decals, or is that all hand-masked? (I don't own the kit). If you've got some close up engine and interior shots, I'd love to see them.

Wish I had seen your post earlier - I would've recommended Model Master Boyd's Red. IMO it's got a certain tone that's closer to this http://i7.photobucke...ed-backleft.jpg than Testors Dark Red. Boyd's Kandy Scarlet might be close, too, although in my experience, it does not cover well over white primer or white plastic.

Wow, mixed emotions here. I'm happy that you were able to bag that thing for such a low price, but I'm also jealous that you've got one and I don't. My compliments on taking a less than perfect kit and turning it into such a killer build. RE: the Top Gear thing - I felt so sorry for James May getting wave-pounded in that boat. That just looked miserable.

I'd been following the build-up on this and I'm still shaking my head over the milled hood louvers. With that being beyond my abilities, I sat here and tried to figure out how I would've tried to mask that Stratos logo on the back Nice job again, Mark!

Nice job on that El Camino, Dan. My best friend had a '67 for years, and as Chuck says above, good luck getting traction. Couple questions if ya don't mind: 1) Did you have any trouble getting the chassis/interior assembly to fit into the body? I've heard this kit is tricky that way. 2) I love those American Racing wheels . Where did they come from?

Couple things: 1) Take a look at the way you did your '68 Shelby. That's the look you want. Subtle but seen. On most models, though, this will require using a reduced mix of the car's color and flat black (both acrylic) in the door and trunk panel gaps. 2) The seams on the cowl panel and the the tulip panel (below the back glass) should be body color only, as they are non-opening items. Lastly, while the seam for the front splash pan is there, I'd recommend you tone it down some. Google images can be your best friend when it comes to replicating 1:1 cars. You're very close to completing another outstanding build, so I hope you understand our suggestions are made to help you get there.

I didn't realize you were a Corvette owner too. Would you mind posting up some pics of the model you built? I owned my 1980 for 20 years, but never got around to building one of the MPC kits of it. Fortunately, I've got pictures and memories, so it can still be done.

I found a product on their site that I'm interested in purchasing, but I want to ask a couple questions first. When I click on their contact links, I get some sort of Wizard program that will install Outlook on my computer, which I don't want or need. Is there an easier way to get in touch with them via email?

I just wasted a ton of time trying to get this thing to accept one of 7 different images of a 1:1 '72 Cutlass convertible and who knows how many different pictures of the Revell Cutlass Supreme kit on one of my recent posts. If this thing could read my mind, it would reach out and slap me for what I think it ought to go do to itself.

Ed, I wonder if the Porsche 917K , Ferrari 512S and Ferrari 512M should be on that list. The pictures I've seen of Can-Am racing seemed to feature all open cockpit cars, while these are closed coupes. I've got about 6 of the cars on your list in HO slotcar form... Has anyone built any of the cars on Ed's list? Post 'em up!