Monty

SBSP? Seriously? Perhaps you meant the inner machinations of your behind are from an enema.

Now that is dark blue and should suit my purposes just fine. Mark, thanks for providing the pictures. The outdoor lighting really helps. (That Porsche is flat-out gorgeous, BTW!)

I don't think I've seen this paint mentioned on here before, but it looks like something that may work well on a future project. I'd like to see some pics of model cars you've used this paint on so I can decide if I want to order any for myself. Thanks!

Incredible conversion, Grzegorz! What paint did you use to get that color?

I just got a new 4G LTE phone & you're so 2 minutes ago (see my post above yours)

IMO, the two L's in the name should be replaced with two T's.

I just noticed that your other F1 cars had slicks while this one has tires with a fairly deep tread for a race car. After a little digging, I found a review of the model you built http://www.mrof1engi...uk/?page_id=373 . The author notes that Protar equipped this one with "wet-weather rubber" and he seemed surprised that they went that route instead of just providing slicks like most race cars.

Curt, I'm impressed! Such a wide variety of subjects built with this level of attention to detail, and nicely photographed as well. 2011 was obviously a great year for you! Ignorant inquiry of the day: Tell me about the tires on the Marlboro Alpha Romeo. Are they some type of rain tire?

This kit can turn out very well if you know some of the foibles going in. Ask the guys in the Truck section about issues (difficulty with tilt-cab is one) and solutions before you get too far into it.

Love that color, Chris! What paint did you use?

Rob, if you wouldn't mind a couple pointers, you can make that Shelby even better. Start by making sure the headlights are on straight (passenger side could use a little adjustment). Also, some folks have shown that using a small bit of Testors canopy glue on chrome headlights gives them the appearance of having glass lenses - it's a fairly cheap and easy trick. Lastly, a black wash on the mesh part of the grille and solid black on the inside grille surround will give it some depth and help set off the grille-mounted lights. Here's a pic of a black '68 to give you an idea It looked like you did some weathering on the chassis. What all did you use?

About a year or so ago we had a fairly in-depth discussion about this, and one of our now-former members recommended a product you should be able to find at Hobby Lobby & other crafts stores. He claimed it was a better long-term solution that anything the model hobby industy offered and that it could be sprayed over any type of paint without causing any problems. Unfortunately, when members become former members on here their posts seem to get eradicated, so I no longer have the name of the product. Harry, any chance you can still dig up Bluesman Mark's response?

Hmmm, Allclad Chrome requires a gloss black undercoat for maximum effect. I wonder if that would work with this stuff if you decanted the paint, reduced it slightly and airbrushed it. Andy, if you wouldn't mind, post up your pics of the painted parts after you've followed Don's instructions. It never hurts to have another good paint source.

Maybe I'm missing something. When you say "It looks an exact match to testors bottle chrome silver, but in a very nice spray", I wonder why you'd thnk that's particularly noteworthy. Testors chrome silver is a poor match for chrome except when you're detailing very small things like some of the buttons you'd find on a dashboard. A couple months ago, another modeler posted pictures of parts painted with Ace Hardware's Chrome spray. I probably wouldn't use it for bumpers, but it looks kinda like polished aluminum.

Now that's an eclectic collection of well-built models! I'd love to see some engine and chassis shots of that Corvette if you get a chance. Is the '57 Chevy based on the old AMT version, newer AMT version or Revell WOF version?

Welcome to the board, Randy! That Mustang has been around forever, which would explain the mold lines. And you're right - it's not terribly accurate, but it's about the only game in town when it comes to '68 Shelbys. I still can't believe they couldn't be bothered to put the correct wheels in the kit when they designed it. Nonetheless, you did a great job with what they gave you. Is the retractable Ford a multi-piece body? I love how that tuned out. What red paint did you use on that? Looking forward to seeing more of your work.

It's obvious that we have a lot of talent on this board, many of whom have incredible scratchbuilding abilities. I'm curious whether any of them would consider creating solutions to well-known "issues" with certain model cars (e.g. grille area on Revell's 1969 Mach 1) making resin casts from a master and selling the copies. Would the effort that goes into providing the solution be offset by enough financial gain to make it worthwhile? (The Mach 1 grille area is just one example. I'm sure you could think of dozens of other, similar things that could've been designed better.) That poor Mach 1 desperately needs help with that blunt front, and my personal forays into scratchbuilding have been less than satisfactory over the years, hence my question.

Absolutely sinister. I have no idea how I missed this one the first time.

Donn, the How To Airbrush DVD I ordered from you arrived yesterday. Thanks! As you said, it's a whole different technique than the magazine experts have been preaching, but I think I'm going to like it.better Any chance I can talk you into a brief, written tutorial on how to do two-tones with enamels? I'd be specifically interested in your thoughts on the correct amount of drying time before applying the second color, which masking tape works best, preventing ridge build-up along the edge of the tape, and anything else you'd think would be pertinent.

One of our members has a site with a lot of airbrush information that you might find helpful. https://sites.google...nsairbrushtips/

I agree! Mike, would you mind telling us what paint you used for this?

Beautiful job on that conversion. What paints did you use on the body? That combination is sharp!

Congratulations on having such a productive year! Lotsa neat stuff to see here, but I especially liked the F250 (great interior color choice) and the Camaro (killer two-tone effect). I don't care what Virgil says, keep the rust away from those two! Quick question: what paint did you use for the lower half of the '66 wagon?

I agree with Jeff regarding the body style. If your grandfather's car was a 2-door hardtop, Jeff's idea of using the snap kit's body might be your best solution. Other options for 2-door hardtops: AMT's original '57 Chevy, which they've released numerous times. Some say it has the best body dimensions of all 1/25 '57 Chevys. It's not a complicated build but it looks sharp with correct detailing (BMF, gold etc). AMT also has a more current version with lots of detail. I like the Chevrolet script on the valve covers. I'd kill to be able to do that in black. Just out of curiosity, did the instructions say to wait until the engine is installed before attaching the starter? For some reason that seems different from everything I've ever built.

Phil, can you tell me the part number of this lamp. Sounds like something I should check into.