Monty

Hmmm, Allclad Chrome requires a gloss black undercoat for maximum effect. I wonder if that would work with this stuff if you decanted the paint, reduced it slightly and airbrushed it. Andy, if you wouldn't mind, post up your pics of the painted parts after you've followed Don's instructions. It never hurts to have another good paint source.

Maybe I'm missing something. When you say "It looks an exact match to testors bottle chrome silver, but in a very nice spray", I wonder why you'd thnk that's particularly noteworthy. Testors chrome silver is a poor match for chrome except when you're detailing very small things like some of the buttons you'd find on a dashboard. A couple months ago, another modeler posted pictures of parts painted with Ace Hardware's Chrome spray. I probably wouldn't use it for bumpers, but it looks kinda like polished aluminum.

Now that's an eclectic collection of well-built models! I'd love to see some engine and chassis shots of that Corvette if you get a chance. Is the '57 Chevy based on the old AMT version, newer AMT version or Revell WOF version?

Welcome to the board, Randy! That Mustang has been around forever, which would explain the mold lines. And you're right - it's not terribly accurate, but it's about the only game in town when it comes to '68 Shelbys. I still can't believe they couldn't be bothered to put the correct wheels in the kit when they designed it. Nonetheless, you did a great job with what they gave you. Is the retractable Ford a multi-piece body? I love how that tuned out. What red paint did you use on that? Looking forward to seeing more of your work.

It's obvious that we have a lot of talent on this board, many of whom have incredible scratchbuilding abilities. I'm curious whether any of them would consider creating solutions to well-known "issues" with certain model cars (e.g. grille area on Revell's 1969 Mach 1) making resin casts from a master and selling the copies. Would the effort that goes into providing the solution be offset by enough financial gain to make it worthwhile? (The Mach 1 grille area is just one example. I'm sure you could think of dozens of other, similar things that could've been designed better.) That poor Mach 1 desperately needs help with that blunt front, and my personal forays into scratchbuilding have been less than satisfactory over the years, hence my question.

Absolutely sinister. I have no idea how I missed this one the first time.

Donn, the How To Airbrush DVD I ordered from you arrived yesterday. Thanks! As you said, it's a whole different technique than the magazine experts have been preaching, but I think I'm going to like it.better Any chance I can talk you into a brief, written tutorial on how to do two-tones with enamels? I'd be specifically interested in your thoughts on the correct amount of drying time before applying the second color, which masking tape works best, preventing ridge build-up along the edge of the tape, and anything else you'd think would be pertinent.

One of our members has a site with a lot of airbrush information that you might find helpful. https://sites.google...nsairbrushtips/

I agree! Mike, would you mind telling us what paint you used for this?

Beautiful job on that conversion. What paints did you use on the body? That combination is sharp!

Congratulations on having such a productive year! Lotsa neat stuff to see here, but I especially liked the F250 (great interior color choice) and the Camaro (killer two-tone effect). I don't care what Virgil says, keep the rust away from those two! Quick question: what paint did you use for the lower half of the '66 wagon?

I agree with Jeff regarding the body style. If your grandfather's car was a 2-door hardtop, Jeff's idea of using the snap kit's body might be your best solution. Other options for 2-door hardtops: AMT's original '57 Chevy, which they've released numerous times. Some say it has the best body dimensions of all 1/25 '57 Chevys. It's not a complicated build but it looks sharp with correct detailing (BMF, gold etc). AMT also has a more current version with lots of detail. I like the Chevrolet script on the valve covers. I'd kill to be able to do that in black. Just out of curiosity, did the instructions say to wait until the engine is installed before attaching the starter? For some reason that seems different from everything I've ever built.

Phil, can you tell me the part number of this lamp. Sounds like something I should check into.

They'd have every right to think I was strange if I camped out next to your mail box.

Donn, you'll be happy to know that your pictures and advice in this thread were the impetus behind my purchase of your Airbrushing DVD this afternoon. I'm hoping to get to the level described above. Do you think I'll have the DVD by Christmas?

Even though these are supposed to be real car colors, I've heard that the metallics have an oversized flake, which is not what I want for a stock-appearing paint job. Also, please let me know if you used a dark primer, a light primer or no primer under your paint. Yes, I'm aware that it's been discontinued, but you can still get it on ebay.

That's what I'm talkin' about! Thanks!

Are these just knockoffs of AMT's too-skinny Firestones or something else? Anybody got a picture that puts this tire in context?

It seems there may be more than one version. Two minutes of Googling resulted in these pictures. I'm guessing this was the original, painted and upholstered in green and white. Newer version seems to be blue & white... I'll let the model kit & show car historians take it from here.

If any of our members are thinking about buying their first airbrush, there's a lot of helpful information on here. Don, I noticed your reviews included several Badger airbrushes but only one Paasche. I'd be curious to see what you think of the Paasche VL.

Donn, after seeing other pics of your work the other day, I was impressed. This sounds like an interesting solution to Doug's problem. Would you happen to have an example of this combo we could see?

I haven't tried this myself, but I've seen numerous airbrush users recommend Windex for reducing acrylic paint.

Looks like you nailed this one, Felix. Great work on the details, too. What did you use to make the hard lines on the chassis?

What, no entry from Mikey?

I've used these air filters on almost every car I've owned, but I've never been able to capture the look of the element itself on my models. Years ago, someone on the Spotlight Hobbies board did a quick tutorial on painting the conical units that attach to F/I units, but I forgot to copy the info. (the same colors would also be used for the circular open element units found on many muscle cars). If you decide to answer, please post pics of your work.