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Posts posted by Fat Brian
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I'm working on Bobby's 88 Buick and need some advice on paint colors. What color is correct for the body, it's not quite gold but it doesn't really seem to be anything else either. Also, what is the correct engine color? The chassis seems to be a red thats just a touch on the dark side so that shouldn't be much of a problem.
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Sliding the trailer wheels forward can somewhat reduce the turning radius of the trailer.
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I think the wheels in the yellow kit are supposed to be like 68 GT mustang wheels.
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One of the easiest ways to lift a kit is to put spacers where the springs mount to the frame. If the axles are seperate from the springs you can also put spacers between the axle and spring but that is only correct for the rear. If you can post a pic of the kit suspension parts it would be easier to explain.
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Wow, Foose must have been going thru a bad phase when he designed that
Are you kidding, that thing is awesome. The resin kit looks like poo poo though.
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The kit does get a few things wrong in each version. If you are looking to build a super accurate replica of a specific version I would definitely use outside references to correct the kit mistakes.
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Everett made a deal with a promoter last year to bring USA-1 back out and is even building a new, modern, race truck. Maybe the promoter allowed the graphics to be used to further spread the USA-1 name.
http://themonsterblog.us/2011/04/22/old-skool-motorsports-making-big-news-usa-1-new-events-daytona/
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Here is the Wiki for styrene, it's safe to say there isn't anything good for you in there.
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That looks great, I've been trying to get my hands on one for a while.
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I have to agree with Harry and Mike, I saved these pics and opened them up in Photoshop and the tell tale blurriness just isn't there. The areas where the two different bodies touch are sharp and the details are clear. If these are shopped they are the best ever and for something like this it just isn't worth it.
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While not a cinema classic the first ten minutes or so of the first Transformers movie is just about the most fun you can have in a movie theatre with your clothes on.
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If you can get a Monogram 69 Torino Talladega it has a correct 428 in it. The 428 was the top dog Mach 1 engine but could be had without the Mach 1 package also. It really just depends on what you want to do, either engine is correct for the car. Just decide how modififed you want the car to be.
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Yeah I have a few monogram Citgo Tbird kits collecting dust so pulling an engine is no sweat from those. Since you mentioned the Windsor aspect it's certainly piqued my interest more in that route.
The 351 Cleveland was available as part of the Mach 1 package for '70. In '71 the 429 was dropped from availability in the Mustang and the 351 Cleveland became the Boss 351. The engine from the Citgo Tbird would be a good choice for a restomod Mustang.
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The NASCAR engine might be interesting. You can pick up an older Monogram Tbird stock car for really cheap on ebay, you might could even trade for the engine here and it would be the same scale as the car so it won't look too small. The 80s and early 90s Ford stock car engines were also based on the 351 Cleveland which was an optional engine for this car.
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I have a Nikon Coolpix too and I hate it, mine doesn't handle red very well either. Dark red is too light and oranges are too dark, I don't know what is wrong with it but if I had paid for it myself I would have taken it back.
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Yeah, you can paint them before a clear coat. Just be sure to seal them with a coat of future floor wax beforehand or they will run when you spray your clear over them.
This is great advice, please do this or the silver will run in the clear and it's off to the purple pond.
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John....I think this is probably what you are looking for? It's the turbine that's in the R/M 1/24th Huey kit.
I adapted an automotive trans in place of the helicopter trans and stuffed the whole thing in a Monster Truck chassis with 4-four wheel drive.
Your turbine monster truck reminded me of this, one of three trucks powered by a Lycoming T-53.
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According to Smoky he never violated the rule book, he found omissions in the book and exploited them.
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If a 78/79 body has a flip hood it was done by the builder, no kit with that body style had a flip hood from the factory.
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Another Smoky story is that when NASCAR mandated running a certain size of fuel cell they also mandated it have a 2" filler neck. In a stroke of genius of playing in the gray areas of the rule book Smoky ran the 2" filler neck up into the passenger floor board before returning it to the tank. The total length of the hose was ten or fifteen feet and it held about another five gallons of gas. The rule book now states that the filler neck must go directly to the fuel cell.
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Some people are box collectors, they just like the boxes I guess.
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They must have a problem with the 359 chrome, you are the second or third person to mention this and mine is bad also.
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It depends on what you are building. Roots type superchargers, the top mounted, belt driven, chrome ones, are sized by what their original application was, pumping air into Detroit Diesel two stroke engines. The common sizes are 4-71, 6-71, 8-71, and 12-71, taken from the size of engine they came off off. The first number indicates the number on cylinders the engine has and the second is the cubic inches of one cylinder. The 4-71 is too small except for very mild small block street applications. The 6-71 is the right size for most small blocks, it's about the size of most AMT superchargers that aren't the really old ones that are rounded on the top and bottom. The 8-71 is what I would use for your 440, the Revell 68 Firebird has a good one. If you are buiding 1/24 most of the Monogram superchargers are very nice, the 64 GTO and 70 Chevelle come to mind. The 12-71 used mostly for racing applications, it's the long style seen in more modern funny car kits.
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The 78/79 Original Bigfoot kit doesn't have a flip hood even though the real truck does. This kit shared a lot of part with the red Destroyer truck. The next Bigfoot is an 87-91 body style truck with a flip hood. This kit most closely replicates a later rebody of Bigfoot III which started with an 80-86 body. The most incorrect area is the engine, Bigfoot III ran a 429/460 based engine with Boss 429 heads. The kit uses the FE 390 that was always in the AMT 73-79 trucks with incorrect for the engine 460 valve covers with BIGFOOT on them. The valve covers are correct for a different Bigfoot but would never work on the kit engine. This kit was released with just the Bigfoot lettering and with the new red and yellow stripes. This kit was also modified slightly and reissued as the Destroyer II. The tube chassis Bigfoot and Snakebite kits are closest to Bigfoot 10 even though the early Snakebite boxes show a front engined truck that was a much modified Bigfoot IV. If you want a flip hood you can always make one, it's not too bad.
Revell Of Germany Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG
in Car Kit News & Reviews
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You're going to, it goes for about mid forties money.