jdcar32

Your icon shows a Chrysler product 340 and I can relate. I bought a brand new 1973 340 Duster, red with black gut, fold down rear seat, I put a B&M shift kit in it and had a super tune done at Mr. Norm's in Chicago. And of course I wish like hell I still had it !

An older build I thought I'd share. The body is a resin item of unknown origin with a visor and opened doors added. The door panels and head liner are styrene sheet with scribed pleats. The motor is a parts pack Caddy. Dash is from the '48 Merc Woodie kit. Paint is Tamiya gloss black. Frame is from one the iconic Revell duece kits.

I thought I saw '428' mentioned regarding some Mecum cars I researched.....

mine takes less than a minute, totally cured.

I use super glue for fingernails and X-acto cuts !

No, I used thread and scribed the kit lines to open them. Lots of videos on YouTube etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BL37KRRD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I bought this kit on Amazon for $10 ( w/Prime ). It works great for gluing clear parts as it dries clear in less than a minute under the UV light without hazing. I've also used it for gauge lenses, parking lights, etc. This clear resin is not too thin so it wont run. There are many variations of this type of product and their use is almost endless. Highly recommended.

the door handles are after market ( can't recall the source ) and I made the wipers

This was Ford's large performance model for 1966, complete with a torquey 428 and top loader 4 speed. Add some 7 Litre badges, a sporty roof line, bucket seats, and 7 Litre wheel covers and you get a very handsome package. Contemporary competition was Chevy's SS 427 Impala and a variety of Chrysler product 440 cars. This is the Round 2 reissue. The molded in rear exhaust area was replaced with part of the AMT '65 Galaxie rear pan. Doors and trunk opened, console reworked, wood grain on dash is cut out from my Corvette catalog.The old tooling produced a windshield that needed body mods to look right. Some of the other usual old tooling issues were present and accounted for such as shallow engraving and simplified suspension parts. The added windshield wipers are built up from thin aluminum flashing, wire, and plastic. Paint is Tamiya rattle can light pearl blue metallic with 'palomino' interior using acrylics. Carpet is black velour. The kit grill / bumpers were reworked to eliminate the usual lumps and bumps so I used Rustoleum Chrome as a reasonable recovering. The kit tires were actually pretty decent so I used 'em. I've still got to place some of the checkered '428' air cleaner decals to give the engine some color. This one fought me !

I'll message you

that's an option for sure except I'm not tech savy enough and don't have the proper printer, etc. Otherwise I'd try it. Too bad too because there are all sorts of stickers and decals I could use on my showroom stock builds.

Was a decal like the one shown ever available ? What kit ? I'm on the hunt for my '66 Galaie 7 Liter build. Thanks.

I'm wondering if an air cleaner decal like one shown ( or similar ) was ever produced, and if so does anyone have one ? I need one for my '66 Galaxie 7 Litre build.

You're probably right about the MEL engine combo. I believe the Edsel offered it in it's bigger model, close but no cigar !

As this is a Tom Coolidge resin based kit I've often wondered what ever happened to Tom. I've wanted to just say hi, I'm hoping I don't get bad news.

Can't recall about the bumper but the grill and headlights were. If you look up my recent builds posted they were done using the Rustoleum Bright Coat on the bumpers and grills

At the risk of pirating this thread I'll volunteer Rustoleum Bright Coat Chrome as a very good alternative to Testor's for finishing bumpers and such after the usual flash, lumps, and bumps have been removed. At $10 it is a long term supply and fairly durable during installation. I use Tamiya TS gloss black under it.

I use these Amazon purchased bits exclusively but I suggest care - they are carbide, sharp, do not tolerate side loading like conventional carbon steel ( like those in the little metal drill safe ). But they work very well and cut thin aluminum as well as plastic. I've bought several sets ( the smaller ones DO break ). These 'circuit board' type drills pretty cheap in bulk on Ebay to. They typically have a 1/8" ( .125" ) diameter shank so you need a pin vise to match. A good investment for modeling.

Studebaker offered a Halibrand magnesium wheel across the board around '63 / '64. These where in a later Round 2 release of the AMT Avanti but would be appropriate for other period builds. They have a knock off hub and do not use traditional lug nuts.

thanks for all your replies, I'd heard that the kit was a bit of a stinker, this confirms it. I may re-think my plans.........

I'd like some opinions for a build I'm considering. But it depends on scale - I've seen most of these kits for sale stating 1/25 scale which I prefer. I'm sure I also saw one that indicated 1/24 ? Wonder which it really is. Also, I would be building stock ( which will require an inline 6 ) so are all the kits the same, some better ? Thanks.....

Thanks, but never had a build thread, build was done 20 years ago !

did the same thing a few years back, the AMT Tudor body on the ( much better ) Revell frame with the Columbia rear ! Good luck and have fun with your build.

Thank you, I really enjoyed doing it. One of my 1st retirement projects plus mostly done during the 1st Covid outbreak. I've always loved model railroading but never attempted anything until this layout. It was built sitting on our guest bedroom bed and my model bench.