jdcar32

I am currently building the MCW 1958 Pontiac Chieftain sedan. The main components are good castings and delivery was quick. But the detail parts such as steering wheel, pedal assembly, and bumpers are total junk. And no chrome parts in this kit. Lucky for me Promolite had '58 Poncho chrome stuff, Tom might have some Studie stuff. Depending on your skills and desire, just about any kit can be made presentable. That Studebaker will be worth it !!

Love it, Love it, Love it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cant go wrong with a vintage Nascar build, especially a Fireball car ! Nice details, fuel overflow, cut down seat, hood straps, 6 lug wheels and all.............

Thanks Noel !!! The seat mounts are easy, take some sheet styrene and drill holes. Use a drill, a round file, or even an E Xacto blade . It's easier to draw the parts first on the styrene and drill the holes BEFORE cutting them out. Glad you liked the '37....................

I like the dulled down look of the cast aluminum and magnesium, alot of these cars were not all spit and polish. Nice look'in build !

Nice clean build Bruce. Hey thats a nice lookin A bone.............

I dont like the door logo, I will change it to something more period correct like "Big Ed's Garage" or something when I find something at the next swap meet. I like the hand lettered look that these cars had back in the day. And thanks to all for your kind comments...............

I rescued this one from my old Built box, from the 70's. That 40 year old enamel fought long and hard in the green pond !The 409 is from the parts box, along with the cross ram manifold . The magneto is scratch built as is the catch can. The doors were opened and the front clip hinged gasser style. I did a spackle style interior paint. The tranny is a parts pack Hydro Stick with linkage added. The front suspension uses the 32' Ford axle, the rear has traction bars modified from the same kit. The interior has a stock dash with added gauges, a tach, and the chute pull.. The grenade shift knob is scratch built, so is the fire extinguisher. Paint is Tamiya rattle can orange. Windows are made from tinted business card stock.

Your right, ALL of those IMC kits were ill fitting. I didnt have the skills back then and I gave up on a few of them. Your effort looks good, and it's finished. The "J" is a really neat race car.

This one has a resin body of unknown origin ( Flintstone ? ) on top of a Z'd Revell 32 frame. It's chopped, channeled, and has a drilled visor added.The louvered trunk is from the 32 5 window.The doors are hinged, the dash is 48 Ford. I also added side steer with hanging pedals. The motor is a Parts Pack Caddy. Rear end is a quick change. Paint is Tamiya Black . The rear and Caddy valve covers are from Replica and Miniatures of maryland. Thanks for looking.

I especially like the appearance of the carpet and rear package shelf. May I ask what you used for these areas ? It does not look like flocking. Red lines and green paint are always a great combo too.

Thanks to everyone for your compliments, I appreciate the comments of my fellow builders.

Killer stance, classic gasser. Two tone paint is a bonus too. Two more words : ladder bars ( you could still add 'em ) Nice gasser......

I razor sawed the pan and frame to suit the Dodge wheel base. Mock up the chassis first to determine how much to cut, it wasnt too bad. The pan needs a little trimming and I cut the front dog house out of the Chrysler to go along with the interior tub from the same model. But if you are using the Modelhaus interior this might change. Cut and fit, cut and fit, oh and measure twice and cut once as they say. It was a challenge but I enjoyed it.

This pushes all my buttons ! I bet the research was alot of fun. I remember these as a kid, along with the Monte Carlo Rallye Falcons. The spot light shields along with the accurate markings really look authentic, really nice.

AMT "white" body, "grey" fenders" from coupe, and chassis from Revell ( much better detail with Columbia 2 speed rear ). Hemi is from parts box with scratch built injection. Opened doors. Resin dash. Tamiya rattle can paint. Modelhaus spider caps . Thanks for looking.

Modelhaus resin kit combined with AMT 57 Crhysler 300. Chassis shortened to suit Dodge wheelbase. Opened hood and doors. Used Modelhaus interior except AMT tub. Real D501 used left over 56 Chrysler 300C 354 Hemi, dodge truck spindles and wheels, and Chrysler rear for a Nascar homolagation effort. About 50 cars built but multi carbs and fuel injection were banned so these cars went to dealers. Arnie Beswick drag raced one. Paint is Tamiya rattle can Copper and Racing White. Something different from the usual Ford or Chevy. Thanks for looking.

Lots of pictures and info regarding the first 426 Hemi. Also a nice detail pictorial on an impressive '64 Belvedere Petty clone and some Petty history.

It's a wonderful thing to revisit your childhood, especially as a lifelong modeller. That's a neat lookin Duece, even for a very basic nostalgia kit. A lot like one of my all time favorites the Monogram Dragstrip Duece with it's two piece body and such. Nice job, kool build...............

I'm a big fan of these cars and your build is sweet. The trunk detailing is seldom seen and much enjoyed. The spare tire and jack instructions show you did your homework. The cowl area in the engine bay should be body color though. A really nice build !

Thats what they call a "day 2" car nowadays! Very neat combination of period speed equipment, a period perfect rubber rake too ! Had a chance to buy one like it back in the day, low mile strippo 396/375 4 spd gold with black vinyl roof. $2,800 from a returning Vet. I THOUGHT IT WAS TOO MUCH MONEY ! ( *%#!!@*&!@! )

That a classic, very pretty car.

Hello again Anne, Found some great 1:1 pictures on ebay, both parts and complete cars, that are great for detailing. Once again, a little Evergreen sheet, guitar string, and stretched sprue go a long way. Metal guitar string ( the smallest size, I dont know the musical name )is great for a variety of cables that have a wound armor cover.

Thats one sweet build. Nice color choice, clean work..............

Hi Charlie, Like I mentioned the resin was fairly soft. I used the back side of a #11 X-acto with a broken tip. The trick is working corners and such first, and take your time. Then the easy straight lines are next. Again patience is the key. Leave a few small areas slightly attached on ALL panels until you are comfortable with ALL the panels being ready to release, this keeps everything stable and minimizes breakage. And if your blade skitters out , a little CA will fill the mistakes. Oh, I did a little dental work with the dremel on the backside of some of the thicker areas before scribing.