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Hello fellow builders - I recently obtain 2 model kits that were a " Model Builders Club Of America Selection" classified kits - They were mailed from 11311 La Cienega - Los Angleles,CA. 90045 - Question: Does this club still exist and does it still retain the same name? The 2 kits I have are as follows: The first is: The Baron and his(5-winges)Funfdecker Flokker(outside box opened but all parts are still factory sealed inside The second is: Flt.Lft. Rif Raf & his Spitsfire (kit remains factory sealed from the Model Builders Club Both kits are dated 1976 by Revell, Inc. Venice, Calif. 90291 Anyone still in the club or have some knowledge of it the information would be great - And would like to know where the other kits made for the club and what companies were involved - Anyone can post here or send me a message - Thank you for your time - Joe

I recently bought the glue loopers for super thin CA. They work great, but you have to put a drop or two of CA in something to dip the looper in. I am running out of bottlecaps.? It wants to wick around the cap and doesn’t really want to form a deep enough puddle to dip into. So I have some 3/16” thick plexiglass that I drilled some 5/32” holes about halfway through on my drill press. Each hole holds a drop of glue and maintains a nice deep puddle for dipping. I should be able to put close to 150 glue wells in this 1-1/2”x6” piece.

Hello everyone...having recently "returned to the fold" after 30+ years, I find my options are seemingly endless now...aftermarket detailing options are everywhere, and therein lie the questions I'm posing here...When I was first into this hobby, it was pretty much the Testors Red or Blue tubes, or the small square bottle with the tiny brush on the lid...generally, you were only glueing styrene together...today, the choices are endless, and I'd rather not experiment with the parts for my current WIP...so, here goes: What glues/adhesives are you using for: 1) Basic styrene assembly? Is there something better than the old Testors Red tube for this? 2) Clear parts, like windows and lenses? The one I've read about most often is plain old Elmer's white glue (to keep from "fogging" them)... 3) Photo-etched and/or machined details? I have seen Future polish mentioned many times as an adhesive for photo-etch (perhaps because the glues would attack the painted finish most details would be attached to?)...Has anyone tried Scotch brand double sided clear tape?...most automotive trim nowadays is held on with double sided foam tape... 4) Resin parts? 5) 3D printed parts? There seem to be a myriad of CA glues, in varying viscosities, and curing accelerants: what do you like and why? What if you are attaching resin to styrene or 3D (or some other combination of those)? What are you using to hold/attach small parts to a "handle" for painting/detailing? A lot of items can't be held with an alligator clip on a skewer...thanks in advance for your input and replies...as of now, I remain, a little confused, lol...

Had a little surprise when I was repairing the windshield header on the '67 Chrysler vert a while ago. The header had a break which I drilled out and pinned to make a strong fix, and I dabbed on a small amount of Zap-A-Gap CA glue. When I was dabbing I noticed the green color of the plastic was coming off on the toothpick I was applying the CA with, and indeed the plastic melted a little bit when I put the parts together, just like regular cement does with styrene. I always thought CA didn't do that; is there something in Zap-A-Gap that affects some types of plastic? Over to the experts...