Adding window trim/molding for modified roofs.

[Hawk312]

I think I have a plan, but am wondering if there is a better way. What do you guys do for window trim if you are modifying a windshield or rear window and need to remove the trim and replace what is already there? This will be on a 60`s muscle car, so the trim will look similar to this:

Edited March 28, 2015 by Hawk312

[Ace-Garageguy]

If it's supposed to be raised above the surface, 1/4 round or 1/2 round styrene strip. Carefully.

Edited March 28, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[Snake45]

Just scribe it into the plastic and drive on as you normally would.

See:

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=98126

[Guest]

Depending on the thickness of the trim, I use anywhere from .010 to .030 thick sheet styrene. I cut it around 2 to 2.5 mms wide and glue it back into the new opening. When I glue it, I try to get the inside flush and allow the rest to stick up past the body. Once it's dry, I scribe a shallow line between the body and trim. Then, trim off and sand the excess. Here's a progress photo of a Jeepster top that I scratch built recently (a good friend loaned his to me for measurements) to give you a little better idea of my explanation. The rain gutters are .010 and the gasket trim around the side windows is .030.

[southpier]

that's a great looking body

[Art Anderson]

I've done my share of showroom stock model car body conversions, and learned to use Evergreen strip styrene well before there was any rod stock, half round or quarter round.

For simple, straight moldings (even drain moldings), I learned that using styrene strip that was the width of the molding is pretty easy, most small dimensions of Evergreen can be bent to round corners as need be, IF I used a size that was at least 2X wider than the thickness I wanted--bent it on the widest side, and glued in place with a good fast-drying liquid cement. Once the glue was dry (overnight), I could gently sand the new molding stock down to its proper height with 400-grit, then carefully round off the edges as needed by using a piece of 400-grit that was well-worn so it would curve/roll easily against itself (grit to the inside), and get that little roll underneath my fingernail (but not protruding much at all beyond. With that setup, I could round off the "rectangular" shape to round, even oval as the case might be.

My biggest problem with half round is that it tends to appear a bit shallow for many moldings, such as around windshield & back glass, certainly for drain moldings which do stand out more visibly on a car body.

Art