New To Model Cars

[chris.suave]

Hello guys, I'm new to this hobby but I enjoy collecting hotwheels.

Do you have any tips on tools I might need in the making of the models, I currently want to begin with a 69 Camaro. Any tips?

[slusher]

Very good hobby knife and some sprue cutters to get your parts off of the trees...

[Miatatom]

Spend as much time on this forum as you can spare. You'll learn a lot here. Another thing is to learn how to search the forum. Here's how to do that.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=74605

[chunkypeanutbutter]

Never brush paint a body. Don't be afraid to try new things. Strive for accuracy, even in little ways at first. Scratchbuild something. Take your time, but keep the idea of finishing in sight.

[Miatatom]

I forgot where I copied this from but it has some good tips. Some sound like they're tips for things other than cars.

Uses of Household Items for Model Cars

• Windex or other ammonia based window cleaner is a great acrylic paint remover.

• Diamond fingernail files can be purchased at our local hardware and drugstores for about $5 each and are great for fine filing work.

• Water bottle caps make great disposable holders for super-glue. Just put what you need in the cap and use a toothpick to dip out what you need. Toss when done. (If you are really thrifty you can pop the dried s-g out and re-use the cap.) P.S. use the unlined caps.

• "Butcher" or freezer paper is great to protect work surfaces from paint and glue.

• Need sheet plastic for gap filling, etc.? Use the fake credit cards that come in the mail (most are plastic, some are not.)

• Cat whiskers make great radio antennas (don't let wife catch you, and just use the ones that cat drops off.)

• Rigging antenna wires or WW-i rigging wire from stretched sprue? cut slightly longer to attach. When cement or super-glue cures fully use a fireworks punk to apply heat. Heat will cause the sprue to shrink. Works on mono-filament fishing line, also. Use an incense stick instead of a punk and you will have a nice smelling work-room on top of all. You can use the smoke from the stick or punk to see where the heat is rising to get it where you want it. Experiment with distance and be aware that the "shrink" will happen quickly once temperature is reached. Make VERY sure not to leave a lit punk lying around.

• Normal household glycerine is a great lubricant for your airbrush needle after cleaning. It's very cheap and works as good as the one the airbrush mfrs sell. Just put it on and then wipe it off. Just a drop does it.

• Ask your tooth fairy if you can have the pumice polishing compound after your visit to the dentist. It's free and they are happy to oblige because they just throw the little cup away after they are done.

• On good terms with your dentist? I got some really nice cutters, grinders and polishers that way - free.

• Prescription bottles are great for left-over small small parts. Use each bottle for similar or like parts.

• Save larger pieces of brass photo-etch frets when project is complete.

• Whitener toothpaste (kind with the fine grit, not the gels) is a great polishing compound.

• Final surface prep for metalizer style (Alclad II ?) done with the fiber "wadding" Brasso will polish to a perfect finish.

• A drop of liquid dishwashing detergent added to decal water soak is a great weting agent.

• I have heard of and seen results of using apple vinegar to turn those shiney metal after-market tracks into something more realistic. Can't vouch for this one.

• For those tiny decals I use the pointy end of my No. 11 X-acto. Just a little stab and then move it and apply where you want it.

• Check out your local fly-fishing store if you have one. I find lead wire in spools and handy monofilament in various tiny diameters. Lead wire is good stuff for plumbing engines and such. Monofilament is great rigging material for WWI or antennas. Use the "punk" mentioned above in the same manner. Works great. Monofilament comes in clear (looks like silver wire when installed, and also a grey which also looks like wire. A good store also has special tools for fly tying which are useful for fine work.

• All those blister packs that you open and throw away are good sources for clear plastic; also good for holding blended epoxy and superglue drops prior to application.

• Make-up brushes make good dusters for your models. Check Walmart for really inexpensive ones because a dep't store is pricy.

• Need weights for a/c noses or such? Local tire shop has used ones laying all over the place. You can get them free for asking because they have no use after removal.

• Nail polish remover is almost always acetone and is good for debonding/removing super glue.

• Lighter fluid. I use lighter fluid for cleaning surfaces and removing some light over spray. I find it less "hot" than other thinners.

• Vinegar is great for cleaning photoetch and also "roughens" that surface to help with paint adhesion.

• Wax paper is great for a palatte for super glue. I line a little plastic thimble, secure it with a rubber band, and pour some ca glue in. I have found the glue to still be useable the next day.

• Ammonia for darkening brass. Ensure the brass is super clean.Suspend it over ammonia in a sealed jar until the desired patina is achieved. Rinse part with hot water. Seal it with a lacquer overcoat.

• Finger Nail Polish Thinner (not remover - different stuff) works the same a Ambroid Pro Weld or Tenax 7R. Get it at high end beauty supply stores (Sally's), sometimes harder to find but cheaper per ounce.

[Lightsunglasses]

I'm no means an expert but practice on a cheaper kit instead of buying something really complicated and expensive.

Don't use the plastic cement near any of the windshield or clear pieces.

Don't attempt to paint the body of the car with brushes; it won't look good. And you will need to spray some primer if you want a really nice result.

Don't expect magazine quality results from your first kit; expect to get better results kit after kit.

Be careful about using different types of paints on the same piece; sometimes they do not get along.

[DaveM]

For tools you will want lots of sandpaper, some fine files and more sandpaper. I use Emery boards for fingernails to do a lot of touch ups. I also glue fine sandpapers to various sticks and even pencils to reach into tight places. Your paint job will only turn out as well as the surface prep underneath it.

Some other tips that I have picked up.

Smooth out all of the parting lines, mold marks, seams and imperfections before starting to paint. It makes a huge difference in the final look of the model. Do this on all of the parts. I see models at contests with big seams running along the radiator hoses, along the seat backs, down the exhaust pipes and along the top of the radiator. those are some of the places these marks really stand out. It's a simple thing, but kind of time consuming. It will also make people think you are a better builder than you really are

Test fit everything. Test fit the individual parts before gluing. It is a lot easier to smooth out a seam before you have stuck glue all over the parts and discovered that you have a burr keeping them from fitting tightly. After the main parts of the model have been assembled, make sure that the chassis, glass, interior and motor all fit together before painting everything. It is a lot easier to fix things before they are painted than to have to file something down to make it fit and then repair the paint. (This whole paragraph was learned the hard way by me)

Don't use big gobs of tube glue. Use small, controlled amounts of liquid cement for neat seams. I use a fine round paintbrush (Maybe a 00 or 000) to apply cement. Let things dry before you handle them. Don't leave fingerprints in the glue or paint. It helps to wash the model in a bit of Dawn dish soap before priming and painting. After washing it, I try to handle it with gloves to keep from leaving a fisheye mark in the paint. I usually don't paint parts on the sprues. (Except for a few parts where the attachment points can be sanded off without harm) Also, it is very important to sand or scrape the paint where you are gluing the parts together. Glues don't stick to paint very well.

I'm sure other people will toss out some other helpful tips. The most important tip is take time, enjoy the building process and have fun!

Welcome to the most addictive hobby I know!

[1930fordpickup]

Do not be afraid to just put together a kit without paint. Get used to making things fit before you learn the painting end.

[disabled modeler]

never be afraid to build a curbside or snap kit...they can build into good looking models and work your way up to more detailed kits...I still will build the snaps myself and I have been at it for over 40 years.

best advise anyone ever gave me is it treat every part as if it were a model itself...ends up looking very clean and nice when done.

Build for yourself...it only has to make the builder happy.

take you time...building is no race its meant to be enjoyable.