Another use for thread

[BigTallDad]

When I built it, I found that the rear fenders are separate from the body and need to be glued on. No matter how I fussed and fiddled with the alignment, there's still a gap.

Here's a shot of the fender/body gap on the model.

Here's a shot showing (for photographic purposes) the white thread I'm using. It's Button & Carpet, 74% synthetic and 26% cotton. The cotton lends itself to magic markers as well as Elmer's white cement.

After coloring with a magic marker, run the thread through some Elmer's white glue and wipe off the excess. Using a doll-house clothes pin, secure one end then push the remaining thread into place.

Here's what it looks like after the glue has dried and the ends are trimmed off. Any excess glue can be removed with a swab and Windex.

The final results. This will look great under some Tamiya TS-13 clear.

Edited May 8, 2015 by BigTallDad

[thatz4u]

thanks for the tip, wish I would have thought of it when I was younger

[afx]

I do something similar but I use very thin styrene rod (.010 or .020). I install the rod then flow some liquid cement in the gap. After it sets up I clean it up with sand paper then prime/paint.

Edited May 8, 2015 by afx

[Foxer]

Finally! A use for all this thread I stole 50 years ago from Mom's sewing box for plug wires I don't have to use anymore!

Very nice tutorial with all the facts. This will give a very clean line .. seems I can even add it to all the VW Bugs I've already built!

[BigTallDad]

I had considered using styrene rod, but liked the way the pattern matches the 1:1 welting. The thread also conforms to curves more easily, and there is no sanding involved.

[Art Anderson]

One thing though: While what you are doing is to replicate the welting that automakers used, from about 100 years ago through at least the late 1940's to seal the joints between fenders and bodies against road splash and dust, that welting never did have an exposed grain or "pattern". Fender welting was (and still is for restorations) made by wrapping a woven cotton cord with vinyl-impregnated cloth, which was pinched tightly together on one side of the cord, and glued, in order to make a "flange" which extended down between the body panel and the edge of the fender, secured in place by the bolts holding the fender on.

That welting did tend to have a slight texture to it--the effect of impregnating a very finely, tightly woven fabric, but that was virtually invisible except under very close examination.

I have installed "fender welting" on a number of model cars over the years--while a bit large for exact scale, .020" Evergreen styrene rod stock does a great job of fulfilling this role. Easily done on a model car body, before painting.

Art

[jwrass]

Ray,

Great tip!!! Thanks for sharing!!!

Robbing Mom's sewing kit brings back great memories.

Jimmy "RASS"

[misterNNL]

One of my first modeling tools was one of mom's old paring knives.It had the tip end of the blade broken off so it wasn't of much use in the kitchen but was perfect for me to heat over a candle and open model car doors with.I still have mounted in a small case on the wall near my model bench.

[BigTallDad]

  On 5/11/2015 at 5:34 PM, misterNNL said:

One of my first modeling tools was one of mom's old paring knives.It had the tip end of the blade broken off so it wasn't of much use in the kitchen but was perfect for me to heat over a candle and open model car doors with.I still have mounted in a small case on the wall near my model bench.

I'm not quite sure how that applies to using thread for welting. Can you help me understand?

[426-Hemi]

My Dad built a REAL '39 Chevy Business coupe, that "Welting" you mentioned, in ANY of the newer cars, built as street rods is rubber..... OR I think I even read he could have ordered "Cork" versions and they back in the day when those cars were new were for "seals" between fenders and body, NOWADAYS, its more used to keep the fenders from rubbing the body and making scratches in the paint. SADLY the new ones are all rubber pads with a slight "lip" where the fender top meets the body of the car, (THEY'RE fitted, per car type) or well at least the ones my Dad used were. I say "rubber" but are rubber-like, I'm not 100% sure on what they are made of, but, it feels like rubber, (I helped him install them as well as add the fenders to the car!"

IF I remember correctly the thickness of the Welting was 3/32".

EDIT:

Forgot to mention you could order the Welting in different contrasts too..... Light Medium or Dark. to go/blend in, or stick out as much as you wanted it too.... Dads '39 had it in black, medium, as the car is dark blue.....

Edited May 20, 2015 by 426-Hemi

[BigTallDad]

  On 5/20/2015 at 9:25 PM, 426-Hemi said:

My Dad built a REAL '39 Chevy Business coupe, that "Welting" you mentioned, in ANY of the newer cars, built as street rods is rubber..... OR I think I even read he could have ordered "Cork" versions and they back in the day when those cars were new were for "seals" between fenders and body, NOWADAYS, its more used to keep the fenders from rubbing the body and making scratches in the paint. SADLY the new ones are all rubber pads with a slight "lip" where the fender top meets the body of the car, (THEY'RE fitted, per car type) or well at least the ones my Dad used were. I say "rubber" but are rubber-like, I'm not 100% sure on what they are made of, but, it feels like rubber, (I helped him install them as well as add the fenders to the car!"

IF I remember correctly the thickness of the Welting was 3/32".

EDIT:

Forgot to mention you could order the Welting in different contrasts too..... Light Medium or Dark. to go/blend in, or stick out as much as you wanted it too.... Dads '39 had it in black, medium, as the car is dark blue.....

My first car was a '47 chevy, as shown here

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=102026

Old age (I'm 72) might be stepping in, but to my recollection. the welting appeared to be a rubber tube covered by canvass, then sewn.

[426-Hemi]

  On 5/20/2015 at 10:34 PM, BigTallDad said:

My first car was a '47 chevy, as shown here

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=102026

Old age (I'm 72) might be stepping in, but to my recollection. the welting appeared to be a rubber tube covered by canvass, then sewn.

I didn't mention it, but my Dad passed away last March '14, I inherited the car he was building, almost complete.... He never got to drive it.... I gotto drive it to the funeral, so.. but here it is:

You can't see the welting in this picture but its right one the other side of the hood edge roll in the front fender.

Just behind the thickness of the grille.

Not the greatest picture for this, but the rear you can just see the bead of that lip I mentioned..... goes in the crease between the fender and the body.....

All I can say is those dang fenders AREN'T light...... I held 2 as Dad bolted them on in '12, as he held 2 as I bolted them......

I forget at times I have this car, as its being stored in Pennsylvania right now (the garage built is better then what I have) but its mine.....

[Harry P.]

  On 5/11/2015 at 5:34 PM, misterNNL said:

One of my first modeling tools was one of mom's old paring knives.It had the tip end of the blade broken off so it wasn't of much use in the kitchen but was perfect for me to heat over a candle and open model car doors with.I still have mounted in a small case on the wall near my model bench.

The inspiration for the "Auto World panel cutter?"