unclescott58 Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 I'm trying to figure out how to built the old MPC clear display case trailer. What does one use to cement the clear parts together? Testor's Model Master clear cement does not have enough initial "bite" (or what ever you want to call it) to hold the parts Together while drying. Regular model cement would work, but will also fog the clear plastic. A member of our local model car club, recommended model canopy glue. I see on eBay, that Zap makes a couple different types. So which one does one buy? I've also heard about watch crystal cement. But I know nothing about this. I've never meet anyone who has used it. What I'm looking for is something "tacky" that will hold the parts together almost instantly. Yet still dry clear and not fog the surrounding clear plastic. I have yet to see one of these trailers built in it's intended "clear" form. Is it even possible to really do it? Scott
Snake45 Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 I think about the best you can do is a liquid cement, applied carefully. That's how they'd do it to make a clear acrylic display case, for example. Your other alternative would be a clear epoxy. Or maybe a "non-fogging" CA. (These are available, but not easy to find and a little more expensive than common CA.)
unclescott58 Posted June 19, 2015 Author Posted June 19, 2015 I think about the best you can do is a liquid cement, applied carefully. That's how they'd do it to make a clear acrylic display case, for example. Your other alternative would be a clear epoxy. Or maybe a "non-fogging" CA. (These are available, but not easy to find and a little more expensive than common CA.) Can you tell me more Snake? Like what type of liquid cement is used in building acrylic display cases? And me more about clear epoxy and non-fogging CAs. How much more are these options. And what are the drawbacks? If any? And anybody else with other good ideas, please chime in. Or if you agree or disagree with Snake's suggestions. I'm very curious about this watch crystal glue I've heard about. Does anybody out there know anything about this? Scott
GeeBee Posted June 19, 2015 Posted June 19, 2015 (edited) I've also heard about watch crystal cement. But I know nothing about this. I've never meet anyone who has used it. I have been using GS Hypo cement for a number of years, great stuff, has to stickiness your looking for, and does dry crystal clear Edited June 19, 2015 by GeeBee
unclescott58 Posted June 19, 2015 Author Posted June 19, 2015 I have been using GS Hypo cement for a number of years, great stuff, has to stickiness your looking for, and does dry crystal clear Does it come with a needle like applicator as it looks like it might on the box? And do you think I can find it on eBay? Scott
unclescott58 Posted June 19, 2015 Author Posted June 19, 2015 Does it come with a needle like applicator as it looks like it might on the box? And do you think I can find it on eBay? Scott Never mind. I found it on eBay. After seeing the price and reading the detailed information on the stuff, I decided to buy a tube. I'll be curious to try it out. Anything I need to watch out for? Scott
DrGlueblob Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 You'll like it, though the model won't tolerate too much handling. G-S Hypo is also stocked in Michael's.
3100 chevy Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 Try white glue you can wash it of if You mess up
unclescott58 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Posted June 20, 2015 Try white glue you can wash it of if You mess up White glue will not hold the parts together until they dry. This is why we're having this discussion. Most models I build I've been using Testor's Model Master white glue for glueing in things like windows. It's good stuff over all. But its initially not tacky enough to hold two clear parts together in place. This can be a problem with glueing other clear parts in other circumstances. White is good for most things. But, not in this case. Scott
Kit Basher Posted June 20, 2015 Posted June 20, 2015 I gotta say in advance, I have never done this, so take this second hand info for what it's worth. I'm told that acrylic display cases are made by clamping or taping the joints together, then applying a solvent (probably something similar to Ambroid Pro Weld) to the inside of the joint with a syringe. The solvent wicks into the joint and welds it, just like liquid model cement works. The outside of the joint is then polished. I have no idea if this process would work with styrene and liquid cement for your purpose, I'm just throwing it out there.
3100 chevy Posted June 21, 2015 Posted June 21, 2015 I may be beating a dead horse but could you tape the seams or clamp them? I've never built this kit so I would not know.
unclescott58 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Posted June 21, 2015 I may be beating a dead horse but could you tape the seams or clamp them? I've never built this kit so I would not know. Have tried tape and clamps. And no it did not work. With white glue. This is tricky kit to build. Is you do a search on line, I don't think you will find any pictures of a single of these kits in the clear form it was designed to be. I've seen one or two built, but painted. Scott
Cornpatch Posted June 21, 2015 Posted June 21, 2015 Scott: Heres a suggestion for you, go to a Home Depot and or a Lowes or even a Menards store or really any store that sells Plexi- glass. Go to the Plexi-Glass section and look at the glues there. There probley will be a couple three different glues there. Read the labels on all and decide which one would best suit your needs, or the easiest on for you to use. When I built my trailer, I used the tube glue that they offer, worked just great, dries crystal clear and it has all the stickum that you need. In fact I have built several different things using that pertickler glue. If you use it for anything thats not really clear, be sure to test it on a piece of scrap first. Hope this helps Jeff
unclescott58 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Posted June 26, 2015 Okay, I tried the G-S Hypo cement for the first time tonight. So far so good. We'll see where this goes. And I'll tell you more down the road. Scott
unclescott58 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Posted June 26, 2015 A major warning about using G-S Hypo cement. There is a very thin wire that needs to be reinserted in the glues nozzle every time you use it. I hands and eyesight are such, that this does not work. I have little to no problems using the wire you get with Testor Model Master model cement for clearing its applicator. This tell you how small this wire is with the G-S Hypo cement. After one use, I now have a tube of cement I can nothing more out of. The cement itself, is tacky enough to to hold the parts together okay. But, as Jeff above has suggested, I question who strong the G-S Hypo cement will be in the long run. I think its time to look at the next alternative. Scott
ChrisBcritter Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 Maybe Bondic? The UV light should pass through the clear plastic and cure the liquid, theoretically...
thatz4u Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 Microscale industries, micro kristal klear, looks like a thick Elmers white glue, made for plastic models. It solved my "glass" problems
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