1/8 scale woody

[sjordan2]

I think the upholstery looks terrific as is, especially with your planned color scheme. It should look doubly terrific along with the other seats and door panels.

As for the roof interior, will you be doing open work planks as on your 1/16, or something more like tongue and groove?

Edited July 15, 2015 by sjordan2

[Harry P.]

Yeah, that really is a cool looking material. Looks like real leather. I'm glad I found it!

[bobthehobbyguy]

Nice job on the seats.

[Harry P.]

Here's my scratchbuilt shift gate, all Spaz Stixed and all...

[Harry P.]

Ok, now it's time for some woodworking.

Like the 1/16 scale "test" woody I posted several weeks ago, I'm starting with these pieces. They go over the rear fenders...

[LaughingIndian]

I vote dark green ...

for what it's worth

[Kit Basher]

I am totally blown away. That engine is amazing! Chassis, firewall, interior, equally amazing. I know I am going to be impressed with the woodworking, as I was with the 1/16 model. You rock, Harry!

[Harry P.]

I actually have the first pieces of the wooden body installed. New photos later today.

[Harry P.]

I decided to go with the green upholstery. Also, I have the doorposts made and temporarily in place.

[cobraman]

Looks great !

[bobthehobbyguy]

Coming together nicely. Seats look great.

[Harry P.]

I have some of the bodywork started. Like on my 1/16 scale "test woody" that I posted several weeks ago, I'm starting with the rear side panels first, then tailgate/liftgate, and finally the doors. On this model there isn't enough room for that lower flip-out gun tray like I added to my 1/16 woody, so that will not be a part of this model. Pardon the dust... it's hard to keep the model clean while I'm working on it...

At first I ws going to go with simple black interior panels in the rear ("Masonite?" Did they have Masonite in the early '30s?)... then thought maybe go with a wood panel (which would be the inside of the wood panel of the body itself)... finally went with padded, upholstered panels to match the seats (and eventually the door panels).

[sjordan2]

The woodwork is REALLY starting to shape up. Can't wait for more. (But I still think you could a put a trap door in the rear floorboard to house a gun case and other storage items). 

BTW, the green upholstery is lighter than I expected and I like it a lot. 

Edited July 19, 2015 by sjordan2

[detailstymied]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masonite

[Harry P.]

The woodwork is REALLY starting to shape up. Can't wait for more. (But I still think you could a put a trap door in the rear floorboard to house a gun case and other storage items). 

BTW, the green upholstery is lighter than I expected and I like it a lot. 

 

The rear floor sits directly on top of the gas tank. There is no space between top of the gas tank and the floor. If you take away that narrow lower rear panel just below the floor, you would see that the gas tank is right there. Remember, my 1/16 woody was a 1937, this is a 1934. Dimensions changed. I'll use that narrow lower panel for the taillights and license plate.

Th and other storage items). 

BTW, the green upholstery is lighter than I expected and I like it a lot. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BTW, the green upholstery is lighter than I expected and I like it a lot. 

But I still think you could a put a trap door in the rear floorboard to house a gun case and other storage items). 

BTW, the green upholstery is lighter than I expected and I like it a lot. 

[Harry P.]

Wow! What happened in my previous post???? I was going to quote Skip, and I got that! Looks like we still have some bugs to work out... 

Anyway, I thought about adding a drop-down gun compartment into the recess of the front seatback, between those small storage cubbyholes. But then I figured to access that, you'd gave to get in the car and sit down in the back seat to access it. Seems a little odd to put the guns there...

[wayne swayze]

Beautiful work as usual Harry. Ireally like the rich tone of the green upholstery. 

[sjordan2]

Wow! What happened in my previous post???? I was going to quote Skip, and I got that! Looks like we still have some bugs to work out... 

Anyway, I thought about adding a drop-down gun compartment into the recess of the front seatback, between those small storage cubbyholes. But then I figured to access that, you'd gave to get in the car and sit down in the back seat to access it. Seems a little odd to put the guns there...

 

This  car needs guns, or fishing gear with a wicker creel like on the side of your brass Ford Model A , or a picnic basket, wherever you put them. In any case, you could just stick a gun case and/or picnic basket on top of the floorboard. It doesn't matter if there's a designated storage compartment. 

Edited July 19, 2015 by sjordan2

[Cato]

Lot of demands for stage props. No dioramas. The guy is working an engineering miracle on a Pocher.

I should know.

[Harry P.]

Skip... I do want to add the guns somehow. Not sure how/where... but I will add them, if nothing more thn laying across the back seat!

I've been spending the last two days on the body, but as you may know, I like to skip round. So I went back to the firewall to finish up the last few details. Here you can see the scratchbuilt linkages I added that control both the starting carburetor and the radiator shutters. Both of those will connect to these firewall linkages via longitudinal rods. The problem is, I can't install those control rods (radiator shutter mechanism and starting carburetor) until the firewall is permanently attached. But once the firewall is permanently attached, how do I fit the control rods between the firewall linkages and  the starter carb and radiator?

So I came up with a solution. I attached all of the linkages to the firewall, leaving holes where the rods for the starter carb and radiator shutters will go. Then I can glue the firewall in place, and insert those two control rods by feeding them in from the back side of the firewall. Once those rods are in place, I can then glue the cowl in place, then the dash.

BTW... that coiled copper line runs between the engine and the dashboard temp gauge.

[Cato]

 But once the firewall is permanently attached, how do I fit the control rods between the firewall linkages and  the starter carb and radiator?

So I came up with a solution. I attached all of the linkages to the firewall, leaving holes where the rods for the starter carb and radiator shutters will go.

Yes, that's the only way to do it. You can slide them in the front side too.

[Harry P.]

Yes, that's the only way to do it. You can slide them in the front side too.

Only if the radiator isn't installed yet. But mine is, so I have to come at it from the back side of the firewall.

 

[Cato]

Yes, that's the only way to do it. You can slide them in the front side too.

Only if the radiator isn't installed yet. But mine is, so I have to come at it from the back side of the firewall.

 

Not so in my case. I've had the rad on throughout to establish firewall / cowl and hood length. I just made the rods about 4mm longer, angle them into the firewall holes then slide them forward into the starting carb fitting and the rad shutter fitting.

Several ways to skin the cat. The good thing is we are both getting it figured out.

[Harry P.]

Did you get the starter carb rod to be parallel to the engine/ground? I found that if you place the linkage on the firewall in more or less the correct spot (above and to the right of the molded-in wiring channel), the rod winds up angling down to the starter carb... a very noticeable angle. I wound up cutting about 1/8" off from the bottom of the firewall and cowl sides in order to lower the firewall (and cowl) enough so that the rod is more or less parallel to the engine (there is still a small angle, nut not that noticeable)..

I know we're working on different RR model years, but I wonder if you had the same problem?

[Cato]

Here's mine taken today. Of course it depends where you and I each drilled the firewall. Mine is relatively level. Same with the shutter rod.

Important differences; my firewall is lowered .250. The rad is shimmed + .040. That's how I get a level hood line. The grille brace rod is angled slight forward due to where I drilled the rad.

I hope these look right 'cause I can't preview them.

 

EDIT; Note my firewall flush to the chassis minus the Pocher spacers. Since you lowered the f'wall and cowl, check all your other elements with the floor in place. It may lift your coachwork above the cowl.