Harry P. Posted August 9, 2015 Author Posted August 9, 2015 I raised these points in a previous post but it's obviously too late now. You've lowered the firewall and cowl nearly as much as I did. This will cause serious misalignment with the cowl louvers and hood side louvers. They were completely level on all the prototypes. The answer is to adjust the hood sides by end angles and and material cutting. Mine will need strip wedges ADDED above the hood louvers to lower them in relation to the cowl louvers, as well as angle cuts. The other point is the hood center hinge. Instead of CA (which means they'll get masked or painted), You can drill for 00-90 bolts and put 4 in place through the hood and hinge. Now you can do all the mock-up with joined panels and then simply unbolt the hinge for painting. If you want, I'll take a shot of mine for explanation. But I think you've already got past this step. Au contraire, mon frere. That's French for "no way, José".... I lowered the cowl and the hood sides by the same amount, so the louvers still line up. If I took 3/16 off the bottom of the cowl and 3/16 off the bottom of the hood side panels, how could they not line up? Actually you can see in this photo that I really should lower those side panels just a hair more... Also... I don't want bolt heads visible on the outside of the hood, so I'll stick with CA. It's worked for me many times before on hoods like this. True, I'll have to mask off the center hinge when painting, but so what? It's easy enough to do.
Cato Posted August 9, 2015 Posted August 9, 2015 I raised these points in a previous post but it's obviously too late now. You've lowered the firewall and cowl nearly as much as I did. This will cause serious misalignment with the cowl louvers and hood side louvers. They were completely level on all the prototypes. The answer is to adjust the hood sides by end angles and and material cutting. Mine will need strip wedges ADDED above the hood louvers to lower them in relation to the cowl louvers, as well as angle cuts. The other point is the hood center hinge. Instead of CA (which means they'll get masked or painted), You can drill for 00-90 bolts and put 4 in place through the hood and hinge. Now you can do all the mock-up with joined panels and then simply unbolt the hinge for painting. If you want, I'll take a shot of mine for explanation. But I think you've already got past this step. Au contraire, mon frere. (that's French for "no way, José".... I lowered the cowl and the hood sides by the same amount, so the louvers still line up. If I took 3/16 off the bottom of the cowl and 3/16 off the bottom of the hood side panels, how could they not line up? Well done and you're lucky it was that simple. I realize you may not have set the body aft as much as I did (~7mm) to get the wheels centered. That changes a lot; you're working with the longer wheelbase model - a different platform. Plus we may have different fender apron thicknesses as you have the full fenders. Anyway, I'm glad you're getting a good result. Fine about the hood hinge. But when painted, I will round the hex off the 00-90's and they will be in position like the prototype's chrome buttons which act as rests when the hood half is peeled open. So as not to scratch paint.
Harry P. Posted August 9, 2015 Author Posted August 9, 2015 I think you're right about us working on two different body styles being the difference in results we're getting.
Cato Posted August 9, 2015 Posted August 9, 2015 I think you're right about us working on two different body styles being the difference in results we're getting.For sure; that plus the 'Pocher Factor'. Left and right sides seldom have the same dimensions or thicknesses. Everything has to be checked to avoid tilted, crooked assemblies. Later kits like the Torp and Ambassador had better molds and improved parts, like the metal springs. My very early, first gen Sedanca came with vee-shaped bottom edges on the hood sides! Body halves and doors were each different. Lot of time spent checking and correcting before modifying. I will lay off pointing out pitfalls for you because you've obviously solved them all and have a different, less deficient platform.
sjordan2 Posted August 9, 2015 Posted August 9, 2015 (edited) I raised these points in a previous post but it's obviously too late now. You've lowered the firewall and cowl nearly as much as I did. This will cause serious misalignment with the cowl louvers and hood side louvers. They were completely level on all the prototypes. The answer is to adjust the hood sides by end angles and and material cutting. Mine will need strip wedges ADDED above the hood louvers to lower them in relation to the cowl louvers, as well as angle cuts. The other point is the hood center hinge. Instead of CA (which means they'll get masked or painted), You can drill for 00-90 bolts and put 4 in place through the hood and hinge. Now you can do all the mock-up with joined panels and then simply unbolt the hinge for painting. If you want, I'll take a shot of mine for explanation. But I think you've already got past this step. Au contraire, mon frere. (that's French for "no way, José".... I lowered the cowl and the hood sides by the same amount, so the louvers still line up. If I took 3/16 off the bottom of the cowl and 3/16 off the bottom of the hood side panels, how could they not line up? Well done and you're lucky it was that simple. I realize you may not have set the body aft as much as I did (~7mm) to get the wheels centered. That changes a lot; you're working with the longer wheelbase model - a different platform. Plus we may have different fender apron thicknesses as you have the full fenders. Anyway, I'm glad you're getting a good result. Fine about the hood hinge. But when painted, I will round the hex off the 00-90's and they will be in position like the prototype's chrome buttons which act as rests when the hood half is peeled open. So as not to scratch paint. __________________________ That detail about the hood buttons is something I rarely if ever see other modelers do. I think there might be a male/female aspect to the buttons on opposite sides (convex meets recessed), but that could be my optical delusion. Regardless of body styles, don't all Pocher Rolls kits have the same chassis/wheelbases? Edited August 9, 2015 by sjordan2
Harry P. Posted August 9, 2015 Author Posted August 9, 2015 Yes, pretty sure that all Pocher RR kits have the same identical chassis.
Cato Posted August 10, 2015 Posted August 10, 2015 Yes, pretty sure that all Pocher RR kits have the same identical chassis.I stand corrected Harry. The Pochers are all on what would be a scale 145.5" chassis. The prototypes however were either 144" or 150" wb chassis; not what Pocher's depict. . Another Pocher compromise.
peteski Posted August 10, 2015 Posted August 10, 2015 Harry, I have been following this thread and I have to say that you are building a superb model! One thing that jumped at me though was the that you seem to be using the original thick stamped-metal-arms and clunky plastic-blades windshield wipers. Compared to all the other in-scale details you have added, those look really out of place and out of scale. Hopefully you will eventually replace them with something better looking. The other comment I have is about having articles of your builds published in a modeling magazine. If you don't feel that publishing such an article in Model Cars is kosher, couldn't you pen an article and send it to another modeling magazine? I have feeling that Scale Auto or even FineScale Modeler would love to publish some of your work! Or would that be then considered conflict of interest?
Harry P. Posted August 10, 2015 Author Posted August 10, 2015 Harry, I have been following this thread and I have to say that you are building a superb model! One thing that jumped at me though was the that you seem to be using the original thick stamped-metal-arms and clunky plastic-blades windshield wipers. Compared to all the other in-scale details you have added, those look really out of place and out of scale. Hopefully you will eventually replace them with something better looking. The other comment I have is about having articles of your builds published in a modeling magazine. If you don't feel that publishing such an article in Model Cars is kosher, couldn't you pen an article and send it to another modeling magazine? I have feeling that Scale Auto or even FineScale Modeler would love to publish some of your work! Or would that be then considered conflict of interest? I agree on the clunky wipers. Might have to get a set from Modelmotorcars eventually. As far as submitting an article to another magazine... I'm pretty sure they wouldn't publish anything I send them due to my connection with MCM.
peteski Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 I agree on the clunky wipers. Might have to get a set from Modelmotorcars eventually. As far as submitting an article to another magazine... I'm pretty sure they wouldn't publish anything I send them due to my connection with MCM. I was thinking more that with your scratchbuilding skills you should be able to come up witch something good looking rather easily. Those early wipers were rather simple - just like the Pocher version but just using thinner/finer materials. You probably have some good closeup photos of the 1:1 scale blades in your reference materials. Something like this.
landman Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 Harry, it looks like they won't let you get away with the kit's wipers. Whose model is it anyway?
peteski Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 As far as submitting an article to another magazine... I'm pretty sure they wouldn't publish anything I send them due to my connection with MCM. You could use a pseudonym. Many authors do that.
Harry P. Posted August 11, 2015 Author Posted August 11, 2015 As far as submitting an article to another magazine... I'm pretty sure they wouldn't publish anything I send them due to my connection with MCM. You could use a pseudonym. Many authors do that. Eventually they would have to pay me. That's when they find out my real name. Unless they would be wiling to actually publish something from me under an alias. But I think when Gregg found out, he wouldn't be too happy...
sjordan2 Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 As far as submitting an article to another magazine... I'm pretty sure they wouldn't publish anything I send them due to my connection with MCM. You could use a pseudonym. Many authors do that. Eventually they would have to pay me. That's when they find out my real name. Unless they would be wiling to actually publish something from me under an alias. But I think when Gregg found out, he wouldn't be too happy... Nor would Jim Haught, you naughty boy!
Harry P. Posted August 11, 2015 Author Posted August 11, 2015 I agree on the clunky wipers. Might have to get a set from Modelmotorcars eventually. As far as submitting an article to another magazine... I'm pretty sure they wouldn't publish anything I send them due to my connection with MCM. I was thinking more that with your scratchbuilding skills you should be able to come up witch something good looking rather easily. Those early wipers were rather simple - just like the Pocher version but just using thinner/finer materials. You probably have some good closeup photos of the 1:1 scale blades in your reference materials. Something like this. I used a set of these on my Pocher Mercedes. What do you think? http://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/rolls-royce/products/assembled-wipers-r002 As far as submitting an article to another magazine... I'm pretty sure they wouldn't publish anything I send them due to my connection with MCM. You could use a pseudonym. Many authors do that. Eventually they would have to pay me. That's when they find out my real name. Unless they would be wiling to actually publish something from me under an alias. But I think when Gregg found out, he wouldn't be too happy... Nor would Jim Haught, you naughty boy! I probably have a better chance of being a Playboy Playmate than ever getting any of my work into SA!
Cato Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 Hey Harry; as the number 2 man here, you got any pull to stop this stacking of responses in one post?? Geeze it's annoying and I know you hate it too.
Harry P. Posted August 11, 2015 Author Posted August 11, 2015 It's in the forum software. I don't know if it can be changed. I know Gregg has been noodling around with the settings, but so far he hasn't fixed that. Maybe it's not anything we can change. I don't know for sure, because I don't have access to those controls.As far as I understand it, if you make a post in a thread, then make another post in the same thread and nobody else has posted between your posts, your posts get merged. I don't know any way to change that.EDIT: Turns out I do have access to forum functionality. I think I fixed it. We'll see.
Harry P. Posted August 11, 2015 Author Posted August 11, 2015 Test.ok, looks like I fixed it. Now I gotta figure out that whole "quote" mess...
Harry P. Posted August 11, 2015 Author Posted August 11, 2015 I think I fixed the quote problem, too. Let's see how it goes.
sjordan2 Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 I think I fixed the quote problem, too. Let's see how it goes.I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Somebody quote me.
sjordan2 Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Somebody quote me. okay, I'll quote myself.
sjordan2 Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 okay, I'll quote myself. Cool. Looks like Harry fixed it!
Harry P. Posted August 12, 2015 Author Posted August 12, 2015 okay, I'll quote myself. Didn't your mom tell you that you would go blind doing that?
Harry P. Posted August 12, 2015 Author Posted August 12, 2015 Harry Pristovnik - NOT just a pretty face. Uh, yeah, definitely not.
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