1/8 scale woody

[sjordan2]

Have you ever featured any of your builds in the magazine ? I have had a subscription forever and don't recall ever seeing one. If not you should think about doing some. Maybe you have and I just don't recall.

No, never have had anything of mine in the magazine. Seems sort of a "conflict of interest" to me.

That makes no sense. The people who publish should be able to conduct a master class in their subject. 

[Harry P.]

This just gets better and better, and may be your masterpiece. 

Thanks! It is coming along pretty well, but that's because I did that "practice" version first!

Have you ever featured any of your builds in the magazine ? I have had a subscription forever and don't recall ever seeing one. If not you should think about doing some. Maybe you have and I just don't recall.

No, never have had anything of mine in the magazine. Seems sort of a "conflict of interest" to me.

That makes no sense. The people who publish should be able to conduct a master class in their subject. 

I guess I think people would see it as sort of shady if people who put out the magazine put their own work in it.

[sjordan2]

This just gets better and better, and may be your masterpiece. 

Thanks! It is coming along pretty well, but that's because I did that "practice" version first!

Have you ever featured any of your builds in the magazine ? I have had a subscription forever and don't recall ever seeing one. If not you should think about doing some. Maybe you have and I just don't recall.

No, never have had anything of mine in the magazine. Seems sort of a "conflict of interest" to me.

That makes no sense. The people who publish should be able to conduct a master class in their subject. 

I guess I think people would see it as sort of shady if people who put out the magazine put their own work in it.

Goes to credibility, Your Honor. Proves that editorial opinions are based on first-hand knowledge and skill. Conflict of interest? Well, there must me megabucks involved if you decided to jump on the MCM gravy train, so that's understandable  

 

(As for the skill part, can someone fix these ridiculous strings of quotes?)

Edited July 28, 2015 by sjordan2

[Harry P.]

This just gets better and better, and may be your masterpiece. 

Thanks! It is coming along pretty well, but that's because I did that "practice" version first!

Have you ever featured any of your builds in the magazine ? I have had a subscription forever and don't recall ever seeing one. If not you should think about doing some. Maybe you have and I just don't recall.

No, never have had anything of mine in the magazine. Seems sort of a "conflict of interest" to me.

That makes no sense. The people who publish should be able to conduct a master class in their subject. 

I guess I think people would see it as sort of shady if people who put out the magazine put their own work in it.

Goes to credibility, Your Honor. Proves that editorial opinions are based on first-hand knowledge and skill. Conflict of interest? Well, there must me megabucks involved if you decided to jump on the MCM gravy train, so that's understandable  

 

(As for the skill part, can someone fix these ridiculous strings of quotes?)

Ditto on the ridiculous string of quotes thing. VERY annoying. As is the fact that replies now get "merged" all into the same reply sometimes. I hate the way this site works now.

[crazyrichard]

harry > art > stunning > love this build  !

[Harry P.]

I made a simple back seat. It doesn't fold down like on my "test" 1/16 woody. The "steel" pedestal, seat back, and seatback support posts are made of sheet and square rod styrene, the cushions are made and upholstered the same way I made the front seat cushions.

[cobraman]

Nice seat. Too bad it doesn't fold. Just kidding. Seat looks good as does the whole build.

[Harry P.]

I was going to make a folding seat at first, then got lazy.

I was working on the front end today. Running lights, front bumper. New pix coming tomorrow...

[Harry P.]

Got some of the front end details done... crank, driving lights, and bumper. The bumper and bumper mounting brackets are steel, looks very realistic when installed. The driving light assembly was tricky... the horizontal plated brass rod has no markings or anything to tell you where the lights need to go. It's up to the builder to space the lights correctly. The rod is also too long to fit bewteen the fenders, I had to cut it down. I also had to ream out the light mounting brackets that slip over the metal rod. Once I had the light placement measured out, I marked the rod, slipped off the mounting brackets, and used a grinding bit in my Dremel to scuff up the smooth plated surface of the rod where the mounting brackets would be, to give the CA I used to attach them something to grab onto besides smooth, shiny plated brass. You also have to be very careful to make sure both light mounting brackets are oriented correctly, otherwise when you mount the lights, they won't be lined up with each other. Again, there are no markings or any obvious way to align the brackets... you have to carefully eyeball it, and since I was using CA, hope that I got them right the first time! Turns out I did, and the lights are perfectly aligned with each other, and parallel to the ground. The light buckets are beautifully machined and plated brass, they look great!

[Twokidsnosleep]

That light mount and radiator does look real, excellent work

Also like the bench seat, you did a fabulous job on tucking the cushion fabric with minimal wrinkles and folds

You can recover my couch anyday!

[Cato]

OK, fess up Harry.

You have posted work for 5 weeks now. You are nearly ready to put oil in the crankcase and drive it to the museum.

I have been working on a similar ambitious project for 16 months now. I readily admit my skill set is inferior to yours in the ability to get an assembly 'right' quickly and move ahead. Also granted is the fact that I have chosen many extreme changes after much was already built 'stock' which has been hugely time consuming.

You  have offset that by building a non-stock version with wood bodywork which is much fabrication; equivalent to my alteration of stock pieces. Your 'training wheels' smaller model may have given you an 'instruction sheet' which saves noodling time, figuring out as you go. But you have still have had to fabricate and finish much larger pieces as you go; time consuming.

An example is your detailed engine, which if these posts are correct, took a week or less. Mine has a similar level of scratched detail and took me almost four. I bow to your expedient methods. I work roughly 6 hours every time I start but life dictates not every day. Do you put in twelve hour-days on it? I've been interrupted by a family medical situation but so have you - temporary loss of vision. My wheels took about a week for me to do the 5. The chassis (straight assembly, not including the later radical alterations to it) about two weeks.  My rear seat took about three weeks to dope-out, fabricate, cover and assemble. Haven't yet touched material for the fronts.  I haven't looked at it recently but I seem to remember your Benz Roadster took much more time than this Roller.

I'll be the first to admit that if it takes me forever, I'll be just as happy; the satisfaction has been enormous and outweighed all the expense. I'm certain your satisfaction is the same because you're creating a highly unique and masterful project.

So I ask dear pal, did you have some or much started before posting such startling results or am I really as lame a builder as I suspect?

 

 

 

[Harry P.]

I'm posting in real time, nothing was pre-built and "saved" for posting later. And I don't work on this every day... my time spent on it varies depending on how much (or how little) "real" work I have to do. Some days I work on the woody for an hour, some days all day. Some days not at all. No set schedule.

And I am also an incredibly fast worker when I want to be. The thing that slows me down more than anything is waiting for paint and glue to dry. If they ever invent instant-dry paint, I could build this thing in a week, start to finish.

I wouldn't base your self-evaluation on building speed. It's the end result that coiunts. Some people (like you) are just more deliberate, some people (like me) build at a very fast pace.

But "at the end of the day," to use an incredibly over-used cliché, what counts are results, not how long it took to get them.

 

[Harry P.]

Got the headlights installed.

The kit headlight buckets are soldered to a plated brass "stem" that is supposed to fit into a hole in the fender via friction fit. But as usual when Pocher engineered friction fits, the male part is too big to fit into the female part, so I had to ream out the fender holes. I actually reamed them out bigger than needed, then filled the holes with epoxy before setting the lights in place. That way I had enough "slop" in the fit to be able to adjust the light stems to be perfectly plumb before the epoxy set up. The horn grilles are stamped metal parts; I added a black wash to emphasize the slots and make them appear to be actually open.

I also got the framework for the top done. This model is so big that it's too big to fit onto my photo sweep, so pardon the messy background. Now on to the doors...

[bobthehobbyguy]

Super nice work. Looking good. 

[LaughingIndian]

"As usual when Pocher engineered friction fits, the male part is too big to fit into the female part."

Those crazy Italians ...

 

 

 

Great tip on the epoxied fitting. Thanks

 

 

Edited August 1, 2015 by LaughingIndian

[Harry P.]

I just bought 21 small brass hinges for my woody (two packs of 12)... which will be more than enough (I need 3 hinges per door, 2 for the tailgate and 2 for the liftgate, total 16). I bought the hinges for my 1/16 scale RR woody from this same seller.

Price? $3.64, includes shipping from China! Hinges just like this in a 4-pack cost $5 at Hobby Lobby.

God bless the internet and God bless ebay!

For any of you who still have never shopped online, you really don't know what you're missing.

[Harry P.]

My intention is to make the windows operational (roll up and down via the crank), and to make the door latches operational also. Both of these features exist in the kit, however, since I am constructing completely new doors, I don't know how much of the kit's window and latch mechanisms I can carry over and import into the woody's doors. I was looking at the various kit pieces that make up the window and latch mechanisms... it's pretty complex (especially the door latches), and I just don't know if I will be able to pull this off.

Stay tuned...

[cobraman]

Even with all the problems you have had of late you still manage to turn out some fantastic work. I can't do that good when I'm feeling my best ! : )

[Harry P.]

Those crazy Italians ..

[Ken Gilkeson]

great build

[Harry P.]

I'm "on hold" with this project until my hinges and window channel arrive. I need the window channel (actually 1/16" Plastruct "C" channel) to continue building the doors. Then I have to figure out how to adapt the Pocher window winding mechanisms and door latches.

Progress will be posted as soon as there is any...

One thing I have noticed as I wait for my ebay stuff to arrive... the hood panels are all about 1/8 inch too long. Strange, because the radiator shell is mounted in the dead-stock kit position, as is the cowl (lowered, but "normal" position front to back)... Oh well... better the hood panels are too long than too short. Too long is an easy fix, too short a bit more labor-intensive.

 

 

[Cato]

One thing I have noticed as I wait for my ebay stuff to arrive... the hood panels are all about 1/8 inch too long. Strange, because the radiator shell is mounted in the dead-stock kit position, as is the cowl (lowered, but "normal" position front to back)... Oh well... better the hood panels are too long than too short. Too long is an easy fix, too short a bit more labor-intensive.

 

 

One thing that may also change is the side panels cut lines at the grille and cowl. They may need trimming or shimming. Also alignment of the louver tops with the cowl louvers. I don't think your side spares will hide that.

[AzTom]

That sure is lookin' pertty.

[Harry P.]

I'm sort of "on hold" with this project until the hinges and window channel I ordered arrive and I can start building the doors, so in the meantime I'll take care of some miscellaneous "busy work."

I lowered the firewall in order to get the control rod for the starting carburetor to run parallel to the ground (and the engine), and not slope downward. I wound up lowering the firewall almost 1/4 inch. Since I lowered the firewall, I obviously also had to lower the cowl, or there would have been a huge gap between the top of the firewall and the cowl. Lowering the cowl affects the hood panels... the side panels were now too tall at the trailing edge (where they meet the cowl). However, the leading edges were ok, as I hadn't moved the radiator from stock position. Sooo... I had to remove a wedge from the bottom of the side panels (marked in red) to get them to line up correctly with the cowl...

The old "back side of the blade" technique is perfect when making long, straight cuts like this...

Because the bottom edge of the side panels was now at a different angle in relation to the trailing edge, I also had to remove a small wedge where the side panels meet the cowl (marked in red):

I lowered the cowl, but did not move it further forward, so I was kind of surprised that the hood top panels were quite a bit too long. The part marked in red had to be removed:

 

 

Pocher designed the hood hinges to be attached by melting protruding pins down over the hinges and "trapping' them in place. I don't want to rely on that method alone, I also want to use CA to glue the hinges in place, so I used a small grinding bit in my Dremel to rough up all the mating surfaces between hinges and hood panels, so that the CA will have something to grab on to...

 

[Cato]

I lowered the firewall in order to get the control rod for the starting carburetor to run parallel to the ground (and the engine), and not slope downward. I wound up lowering the firewall almost 1/4 inch. Since I lowered the firewall, I obviously also had to lower the cowl, or there would have been a huge gap between the top of the firewall and the cowl. Lowering the cowl affects the hood panels... the side panels were now too tall at the trailing edge (where they meet the cowl). However, the leading edges were ok, as I hadn't moved the radiator from stock position. Sooo... I had to remove a wedge from the bottom of the side panels (marked in red) to get them to line up correctly with the cowl...

Because the bottom edge of the side panels was now at a different angle in relation to the trailing edge, I also had to remove a small wedge where the side panels meet the cowl (marked in red):

Pocher designed the hood hinges to be attached by melting protruding pins down over the hinges and "trapping' them in place. I don't want to rely on that method alone, I also want to use CA to glue the hinges in place, so I used a small grinding bit in my Dremel to rough up all the mating surfaces between hinges and hood panels, so that the CA will have something to grab on to...

I raised these points in a previous post but it's obviously too late now. You've lowered the firewall and cowl nearly as much as I did. This will cause serious misalignment with the cowl louvers and hood side louvers. They were completely level on all the prototypes. The answer is to adjust the hood sides by end angles and and material cutting. Mine will need strip wedges ADDED above the hood louvers to lower them in relation to the cowl louvers, as well as angle cuts.

The other point is the hood center hinge. Instead of CA (which means they'll get masked or painted), You can drill for 00-90 bolts and put 4 in place through the hood and hinge. Now you can do all the mock-up with joined panels and then simply unbolt the hinge for painting. If you want, I'll take a shot of mine for explanation.

But I think you've already got past this step.