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Posted (edited)

 

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Update
A piece of plasticard and some balsa wood is what I have used.
The “rotary cutter” was excellent to cut straight pieces of the leather.
The waxed cotton string, for the seams, was bought in a scrap book store. I have a small leather string that I bought for this purpose, but it was uneven in diameter so I don´t use it.

It is not a very fancy pattern, but I think it will be good enough J

I think the leather is a little shiny. Any suggestion how to dull it down a bit?

Edited by Zoom
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Posted

You can dull the leather  by gently rubbing with very fine steel wool Bo. Practice on scrap to see what you want.

Tell me; how does adhesive hold the waxed string to the smooth leather? And which adhesive are you using?

 

Posted (edited)

 

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Thank you Scott and Cato!
I will try
mat clear acrylic spray and I will also try with some fine steel wool, to what happens.
Yes, I will test it on a scrap bit.

Cato, I use ordinary CA adhesive and so far it holds the string fine.

Edited by Zoom
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

 

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Slowly forward.

It was not easy to get a nice fit of the hood. It took me looong time.

Now I have paint the hood, before I put the hinges on permanently.

I think I can manage to get decent fit in final mounting, when I can use the hood latches and adjusting the radiator.

 

Edited by Zoom
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Posted (edited)

 

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Tired of the fitting the hood.

Try to get the “front” windows a little thinner.

Test a Plastruct “channel” in the window frames, glue it for test, and make a “template” in plasticard before I try to make one out of 1mm lexan”.

Then I don’t know how to glue the “lexan” windows to the Plastruct “channel”?
My idea is that the “channel” should be painted rubber black. I don´t want to mess it up with glues and paint.
Any ideas???

Edited by Zoom
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Posted (edited)

 

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More problems!!!!

How is it supposed that the window should fit against the window posts???
 I mean that the window should meet the posts and lignin up equal against them (hard for me to describe).

It is not lignin up at all. I don’t think I can bend the screen post to get the right fit without damaging the posts.

Gentleman, I need some help or advice.

Edited by Zoom
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Posted

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More problems!!!!

 

 

How is it supposed that the window should fit against the window posts???
 I mean that the window should meet the posts and lignin up equal against them (hard for me to describe).

 

 

It is not lignin up at all. I don’t think I can bend the screen post to get the right fit without damaging the posts.

 

 

Gentleman, I need some help or advice.

 

 

That window glass looks very thick. Perhaps you could experiment with a thinner and more flexible stock.

Posted

Skip, thank you for the comments.
Yes, your right, this is the "Pocher" window. My attention is to have "hom emade" window from 1mm lexan. But I have to bend them a lot to get the right fit, and I don´t know if they will stay put in the frame.

I can bend the outer post back and get a better fit, but then the front posts "foot" is tilting upwards.

Posted

Skip, thank you for the comments.
Yes, your right, this is the "Pocher" window. My attention is to have "hom emade" window from 1mm lexan. But I have to bend them a lot to get the right fit, and I don´t know if they will stay put in the frame.

I can bend the outer post back and get a better fit, but then the front posts "foot" is tilting upwards.

Call here and speak to Marvin Meit. He is most helpful and generous with advice:

http://modelmotorcars.com/

Posted

Thank you Cato, I can talk to Marvin, we have had some shopping together :D
But I try little more first

Posted (edited)

 

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This is the way I want it. But there is a lot of tension, so I think it will pop away after I have glue it.

Now the window is fitted inside the frame, maybe if I make new and bigger so I can glue them behind the posts, that should make it more rigid. But my first attempt is “nicer”. :D

 

Edited by Zoom
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Posted

I built that model about 30 years ago (back then I wasn't worried too much about fit problems). :)

I don't remember now, but I think that I bent the center post forward so the glass fit better.  Take the front part of the roof which is supposed to snap onto the windshield frame and see how the 3 holes in it line up with the windshield frame.  Maybe that will give you a reference as to how much to bend the center windshield post.

Posted

Thank you Peteski!

That was a nice idea, but the problem is that my Pocher kit don´t have the "roof".
I have to deal with this problem one way or another.
 

Posted (edited)

 

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Wow, I think I made it!

I glued the U-channel to window with the ”U” facing outwards and push it down in the frame.
Earlier I have the window in the ”U”.
As you can see, there is a tension in the window, but the 1mm Lexan seems to flex and “fix” that.
Now I have to mask the window and paint the channel black and then glue it permanently.

I´m satisfied!

Thank you for interest and participation.
 

Edited by Zoom
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Posted

I have changed my mind
I´m not going to paint the U-channel black, they should be painted in chrome/silver
.
:o

Posted (edited)

 

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The doors!

As you can see in the photos I glue some plasticards strips on the door, to improve the function/movements of the door latches. 

Edited by Zoom
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Posted (edited)

 

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The windows “up and down” is working if I move the cranks careful.

I have “dull down” the leather little, with the tips from Cato (fine steel wool) but you don´t see that in the photos.

I think I am ready to glue the door half’s together.
That I don´t know is what kind of glue I should use for this?
Contact glue, CA-gel, CA-thin or ordinary “serious glue”.
This “moment” of putting thing together is a little bit scary, I don´t want to mess up with it.

Any tips is welcome.

Edited by Zoom
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Posted

Looks lovely and scale-like. Use small dots of gel CA on the mating areas at the perimeter. . DO NOT glue solid all the way around - just get the edges flush. These panels should be removable because the latch linkage can always fail. You can pry between dots of gel to reopen and repair.

 

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