Another Pocher Mercedes building. Cabrio Special.

[sjordan2]

 

Skip, thank you! That’s a way to go, but I have considered Cato’s suggestion and I think I go for that.
I probably mess all up if I try to put a “black strip” over the BMF 

Back to the seat, I think it was too much “BMF chrome” on the bottom plate so, I put a small piece of leather over the most part of it, just for a test. Maybe I should narrow it a bit.
What do you think?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[sjordan2]

Your approach to the seat base is reasonably accurate. and here's another common one from an Autobahnkurier.

Speaking of common features, this image shows something that most modelers don't attempt to replicate: chrome door jambs on the doors and in the body.

Edited February 27, 2016 by sjordan2

[peteski]

Sorry Skip, I don´t know all terms 

I mean the rubber that is on the raised rails on the fender. I would like to have some paint on mine,that look like rubber.

 

 

Rubber is simply represented by semi gloss (satin) or sometimes even flat finish dark gray (almost black).  If I was going to do this I would have masked the ribs and painted them that rubber color. Then I would have applied the BMF and trimmed just to be on the bottom part of the ribs.  It would be tough but it is doable. One way might be to use thin strips of BMF and applu them at the bottom of the ribs.

But at this point I agree with Cato - at this point leave them chromed.

[Zoom]

Thank you Cato, Skip and Petski for yours suggestions about the chromed rails.
 I leave it, like it is 

And thank you Skip for yours suggestion and nice photo about the seat bottom.
I take away the leather and leave it chromed. (I will see what I can do about the chrome door jambs on the doors)

And now to my new question:
I´m making a new back plate for my photo etched license plate.
The “bottom” of the license plate should be white.
How should I paint the raised numbers and the “frame” in black, without messing up the white????

Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom
No more Photobucket

[Cato]

If I understand you correctly Bo, you want the letters to remain as they are and paint the background they're on white? It's not easy but I would do the following; get acrylic flat white (this will dry without brush marks) and hand paint it in with a fine point brush and a toothpick for the really tight areas. May take more than one coat for the coverage you want. You want the paint to flow so thin as needed.

[Zoom]

Hi Cato!

No, I would like to have the raised numbers in black.
I have looked at reference photos and most of them have black numbers.

[Cato]

Hi Cato!

No, I would like to have the raised numbers in black.
I have looked at reference photos and most of them have black numbers.

Yes I understand and that's what I replied about. Numbers left black and background white.

[Zoom]

 The raised numbers are not black, they are "metallic blanc". Sorry if I´m unclear.

 

[Cato]

 The raised numbers are not black, they are "metallic blanc". Sorry if I´m unclear.

 

OK then I would still paint the white as I described being careful as you can. If you get any on the letters and assuming they are raised slightly, you can rub any white off them with toothpick. For the black, I would try to make a 'stamp pad'. Get dense foam or firm sponge and make a flat surface the width of the letters. Then dip the flat surface in black acrylic and gently and evenly touch all the letters with it. PRACTICE on a flat surface just to get an even thin coat down. Or paint by hand if you're really steady with a brush. When complete and dry, you can spray over with clear acrylic gloss.

I don't know what else to tell you Bo, it's a tough one. No one else seems to know either....

 

 

[Zoom]

Thank you Cato, I will try that.

[peteski]

Here is what I would try to do with the tools and equipment I have:

Spray paint the entire license plate white.  Find a piece of rubber sheet. I use scraps of rubber roof material (used on some houses or industrial buildings). It is flat rubber sheer about 1.5mm thick.  I also have a rubber roller used for inking printing plates (I got it in an art supply store)  Using the rubber roller spread a thin layer of black paint on the rubber sheet. Then place the license plate (letter side down) over the black paint. Make sure not to slide the license plate.  Then press the plate down gently with your fingers, or roll over it with the rubber roller. Do it gently, just hard enough for the raised lettering to pick up the black paint.  Then lift the plate off the rubber sheet and the numbers should be coated with black paint.

 

The other alternative is to use the artwork for the license plate and make a black decal of the numbers.  Print it on a laser printer on a clear decal paper and apply it to a white-painted plate.

Edited March 2, 2016 by peteski

[Zoom]

I listen to both Cato and Petski. I spray with primer and paint.
Make a stamp from an “eraser gum”, brushed on a thin layer of black paint to the stamp and gently touch the letters. Not easy and it is not 100%, but looking from little distance I think it´s ok on a car that not is new 

Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom
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[Cato]

Glad you solved it Bo.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Looks great

Good solution suggestions guys

[Zoom]

I feel that I was in need to make a “mockup” to see how it looks, and to stimulate my to move on 

Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom
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[Twokidsnosleep]

It is going to be a beauty, so classy

Leather and body colour contrast perfectly!!

[Cato]

Excellent Bo. Yes it's vital to keep the vision and inspiration going.

[GTJUNIOR]

Looking very good. 

[peteski]

Looking good Bo!

[Zoom]

Thank you Scott, Cato, Tony and Peteski!

I´m trying slowly, to put things together.
I see on the fenders, that there are small “waste” from the BMFs “glue.
To you have some tips to get rid of that without damaging the paint???

[Cato]

Thank you Scott, Cato, Tony and Peteski! I´m trying slowly, to put things together.
I see on the fenders, that there are small “waste” from the BMFs “glue.
To you have some tips to get rid of that without damaging the paint???

 

 

TEST FIRST on a painted part but a wipe with 70% isopropyl on a cotton tip should do it. Or apply Goo Gone with the same method. Remove with soft dry tissue.

[peteski]

Thank you Scott, Cato, Tony and Peteski!

 

 

I´m trying slowly, to put things together.
I see on the fenders, that there are small “waste” from the BMFs “glue.
To you have some tips to get rid of that without damaging the paint???

 

 

You can take some masking tape and try to pick up the adhesive with it.  Also, if you are planning on waxing the model, petroleum-based wax (most of them are) should dissolve BMF adhesive.

[Zoom]

Thank you!

It worked with isopropyl.

[Zoom]

Trying to mount the exhaust pipes from MMC.
I have raised the” exhaust manifold” and the front pipe is in conflict with the “half hole” in hood side. Maybe I have to take away some plastic to get a better fit of the hood.

Who have said life is easy 

Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom
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[Cato]

Yes opening the holes a bit will help. You want the hoods to close completely flush to the body. They are very prominent of the model and will show any slight misalignment.

A small thing that bothers me Bo is the braces from the firewall to the radiator. On a real car they would not be touching or so close to a vibrating engine. Even though maybe not accurate, I would install them straight from each side forward - no 'X' crossing over the engine.

 

Edited March 12, 2016 by Cato