Cien1986 Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 very nice craftsmanship... always put my eyes on it,.....really want one of those pocher kit specially mercedes,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Thank you Henry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) UpdateA piece of plasticard and some balsa wood is what I have used.The “rotary cutter” was excellent to cut straight pieces of the leather.The waxed cotton string, for the seams, was bought in a scrap book store. I have a small leather string that I bought for this purpose, but it was uneven in diameter so I don´t use it. It is not a very fancy pattern, but I think it will be good enough J I think the leather is a little shiny. Any suggestion how to dull it down a bit? Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 I love it when builders use real materials like thisI would test a scrap bit of leather with a mat clear acrylic spray...see if that takes off some shineI like it the way it is!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 You can dull the leather by gently rubbing with very fine steel wool Bo. Practice on scrap to see what you want.Tell me; how does adhesive hold the waxed string to the smooth leather? And which adhesive are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 (edited) Thank you Scott and Cato!I will try mat clear acrylic spray and I will also try with some fine steel wool, to what happens.Yes, I will test it on a scrap bit. Cato, I use ordinary CA adhesive and so far it holds the string fine. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Thanks Bo, that's my favorite too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Thanks Bo, that's my favorite too.Is that a one-part adhesive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Yes, a Gel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Cato, mine CA is "thin" not gel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) Slowly forward. It was not easy to get a nice fit of the hood. It took me looong time. Now I have paint the hood, before I put the hinges on permanently. I think I can manage to get decent fit in final mounting, when I can use the hood latches and adjusting the radiator. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 (edited) Tired of the fitting the hood. Try to get the “front” windows a little thinner. Test a Plastruct “channel” in the window frames, glue it for test, and make a “template” in plasticard before I try to make one out of 1mm lexan”. Then I don’t know how to glue the “lexan” windows to the Plastruct “channel”?My idea is that the “channel” should be painted rubber black. I don´t want to mess it up with glues and paint.Any ideas??? Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 (edited) More problems!!!! How is it supposed that the window should fit against the window posts??? I mean that the window should meet the posts and lignin up equal against them (hard for me to describe). It is not lignin up at all. I don’t think I can bend the screen post to get the right fit without damaging the posts. Gentleman, I need some help or advice. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 More problems!!!! How is it supposed that the window should fit against the window posts??? I mean that the window should meet the posts and lignin up equal against them (hard for me to describe). It is not lignin up at all. I don’t think I can bend the screen post to get the right fit without damaging the posts. Gentleman, I need some help or advice. That window glass looks very thick. Perhaps you could experiment with a thinner and more flexible stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 Skip, thank you for the comments.Yes, your right, this is the "Pocher" window. My attention is to have "hom emade" window from 1mm lexan. But I have to bend them a lot to get the right fit, and I don´t know if they will stay put in the frame.I can bend the outer post back and get a better fit, but then the front posts "foot" is tilting upwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Skip, thank you for the comments.Yes, your right, this is the "Pocher" window. My attention is to have "hom emade" window from 1mm lexan. But I have to bend them a lot to get the right fit, and I don´t know if they will stay put in the frame.I can bend the outer post back and get a better fit, but then the front posts "foot" is tilting upwards.Call here and speak to Marvin Meit. He is most helpful and generous with advice:http://modelmotorcars.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 Thank you Cato, I can talk to Marvin, we have had some shopping together But I try little more first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 (edited) This is the way I want it. But there is a lot of tension, so I think it will pop away after I have glue it. Now the window is fitted inside the frame, maybe if I make new and bigger so I can glue them behind the posts, that should make it more rigid. But my first attempt is “nicer”. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 I built that model about 30 years ago (back then I wasn't worried too much about fit problems). I don't remember now, but I think that I bent the center post forward so the glass fit better. Take the front part of the roof which is supposed to snap onto the windshield frame and see how the 3 holes in it line up with the windshield frame. Maybe that will give you a reference as to how much to bend the center windshield post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Thank you Peteski!That was a nice idea, but the problem is that my Pocher kit don´t have the "roof".I have to deal with this problem one way or another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 (edited) Wow, I think I made it! I glued the U-channel to window with the ”U” facing outwards and push it down in the frame.Earlier I have the window in the ”U”.As you can see, there is a tension in the window, but the 1mm Lexan seems to flex and “fix” that.Now I have to mask the window and paint the channel black and then glue it permanently. I´m satisfied! Thank you for interest and participation. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 I have changed my mindI´m not going to paint the U-channel black, they should be painted in chrome/silver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted December 20, 2015 Author Share Posted December 20, 2015 (edited) The doors! As you can see in the photos I glue some plasticards strips on the door, to improve the function/movements of the door latches. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Posted December 20, 2015 Author Share Posted December 20, 2015 (edited) The windows “up and down” is working if I move the cranks careful. I have “dull down” the leather little, with the tips from Cato (fine steel wool) but you don´t see that in the photos. I think I am ready to glue the door half’s together.That I don´t know is what kind of glue I should use for this?Contact glue, CA-gel, CA-thin or ordinary “serious glue”.This “moment” of putting thing together is a little bit scary, I don´t want to mess up with it. Any tips is welcome. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Looks lovely and scale-like. Use small dots of gel CA on the mating areas at the perimeter. . DO NOT glue solid all the way around - just get the edges flush. These panels should be removable because the latch linkage can always fail. You can pry between dots of gel to reopen and repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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