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Another Pocher Mercedes building. Cabrio Special.


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Update
A piece of plasticard and some balsa wood is what I have used.
The “rotary cutter” was excellent to cut straight pieces of the leather.
The waxed cotton string, for the seams, was bought in a scrap book store. I have a small leather string that I bought for this purpose, but it was uneven in diameter so I don´t use it.

It is not a very fancy pattern, but I think it will be good enough J

I think the leather is a little shiny. Any suggestion how to dull it down a bit?

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Thank you Scott and Cato!
I will try
mat clear acrylic spray and I will also try with some fine steel wool, to what happens.
Yes, I will test it on a scrap bit.

Cato, I use ordinary CA adhesive and so far it holds the string fine.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

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Slowly forward.

It was not easy to get a nice fit of the hood. It took me looong time.

Now I have paint the hood, before I put the hinges on permanently.

I think I can manage to get decent fit in final mounting, when I can use the hood latches and adjusting the radiator.

 

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Tired of the fitting the hood.

Try to get the “front” windows a little thinner.

Test a Plastruct “channel” in the window frames, glue it for test, and make a “template” in plasticard before I try to make one out of 1mm lexan”.

Then I don’t know how to glue the “lexan” windows to the Plastruct “channel”?
My idea is that the “channel” should be painted rubber black. I don´t want to mess it up with glues and paint.
Any ideas???

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More problems!!!!

How is it supposed that the window should fit against the window posts???
 I mean that the window should meet the posts and lignin up equal against them (hard for me to describe).

It is not lignin up at all. I don’t think I can bend the screen post to get the right fit without damaging the posts.

Gentleman, I need some help or advice.

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More problems!!!!

 

 

How is it supposed that the window should fit against the window posts???
 I mean that the window should meet the posts and lignin up equal against them (hard for me to describe).

 

 

It is not lignin up at all. I don’t think I can bend the screen post to get the right fit without damaging the posts.

 

 

Gentleman, I need some help or advice.

 

 

That window glass looks very thick. Perhaps you could experiment with a thinner and more flexible stock.

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Skip, thank you for the comments.
Yes, your right, this is the "Pocher" window. My attention is to have "hom emade" window from 1mm lexan. But I have to bend them a lot to get the right fit, and I don´t know if they will stay put in the frame.

I can bend the outer post back and get a better fit, but then the front posts "foot" is tilting upwards.

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Skip, thank you for the comments.
Yes, your right, this is the "Pocher" window. My attention is to have "hom emade" window from 1mm lexan. But I have to bend them a lot to get the right fit, and I don´t know if they will stay put in the frame.

I can bend the outer post back and get a better fit, but then the front posts "foot" is tilting upwards.

Call here and speak to Marvin Meit. He is most helpful and generous with advice:

http://modelmotorcars.com/

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This is the way I want it. But there is a lot of tension, so I think it will pop away after I have glue it.

Now the window is fitted inside the frame, maybe if I make new and bigger so I can glue them behind the posts, that should make it more rigid. But my first attempt is “nicer”. :D

 

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I built that model about 30 years ago (back then I wasn't worried too much about fit problems). :)

I don't remember now, but I think that I bent the center post forward so the glass fit better.  Take the front part of the roof which is supposed to snap onto the windshield frame and see how the 3 holes in it line up with the windshield frame.  Maybe that will give you a reference as to how much to bend the center windshield post.

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Wow, I think I made it!

I glued the U-channel to window with the ”U” facing outwards and push it down in the frame.
Earlier I have the window in the ”U”.
As you can see, there is a tension in the window, but the 1mm Lexan seems to flex and “fix” that.
Now I have to mask the window and paint the channel black and then glue it permanently.

I´m satisfied!

Thank you for interest and participation.
 

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The windows “up and down” is working if I move the cranks careful.

I have “dull down” the leather little, with the tips from Cato (fine steel wool) but you don´t see that in the photos.

I think I am ready to glue the door half’s together.
That I don´t know is what kind of glue I should use for this?
Contact glue, CA-gel, CA-thin or ordinary “serious glue”.
This “moment” of putting thing together is a little bit scary, I don´t want to mess up with it.

Any tips is welcome.

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Looks lovely and scale-like. Use small dots of gel CA on the mating areas at the perimeter. . DO NOT glue solid all the way around - just get the edges flush. These panels should be removable because the latch linkage can always fail. You can pry between dots of gel to reopen and repair.

 

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