How do you stop metallic from running?

[RT6PK]

I have an issue with Testors metallic blue running away from high spots and door jams on a body. I started with Tamiya grey primer, sanded with 600 grit, washed with soap ant water, then painted with several light coats of Arctic Blue Metallic, then one heavy top coat, the same technique that I have used for about 30 years. The paint seems to draw away from the door jams and body trim. Any ideas on how to prevent it from happening after I strip and repaint?

[fseva]

I have an issue with Testors metallic blue running away from high spots and door jams on a body. I started with Tamiya grey primer, sanded with 600 grit, washed with soap ant water, then painted with several light coats of Arctic Blue Metallic, then one heavy top coat, the same technique that I have used for about 30 years. The paint seems to draw away from the door jams and body trim. Any ideas on how to prevent it from happening after I strip and repaint?

Are you spraying a rattle can? How long did you shake it? Sounds like the metallic is separating from the carrier, or perhaps the binder has gone bad... Do you know how old the can is? Next time try it on some scrap plastic, or a plastic spoon.

[StevenGuthmiller]

What type of paint is it?

Is it the old Testors metallic blue enamel, or one of the Model Master "Custom Lacquer" paints?

The enamel always had a tendency to draw away from body creases & edges just because it's enamel & dries slower.

Lacquers dry much quicker & won't be as likely to do this.

 

Steve

[charlie8575]

Try thinning the paint with lacquer thinner. It will speed drying exponentially. 

Light coats are your friend.

Stir, shake, agitate- the bottle, that is. The more thoroughly mixed, the fewer problems.

Charlie Larkin

[fseva]

What type of paint is it?

Is it the old Testors metallic blue enamel, or one of the Model Master "Custom Lacquer" paints?

I searched for Arctic Blue and the only thing that came up is enamel...

There could be a close match in the lacquer line, but it would surely be called something else.

Isn't it also possible that Testors has changed the ingredients drastically over the past 30 years?

[Greg K]

Light coats are your friend.

 

X2 on that note

[StevenGuthmiller]

Isn't it also possible that Testors has changed the ingredients drastically over the past 30 years?

Undoubtedly!

One of several reasons why I've all but stopped using Testors paint on my bodies.

 

Steve

 

[High octane]

Undoubtedly!

One of several reasons why I've all but stopped using Testors paint on my bodies.

 

Steve

 

Hmmm, I haven't noticed any problems using Testors "rattle cans" over the past few years. I sprayed this Chevy earlier this year with Testors Acapulco Blue and had no problems at all.

[MrObsessive]

Make sure you're block sanding the body to get rid of the "peaks" that surround the perimeter of the door opening due to the molding process. Metallics particularly like as much level surface as possible when it comes to being sprayed as they're more prone to "drawing away" than solid colors.

And yes, one should always test their paints out on a junk body or plastic spoons-------saves a LOT of grief later on!

[StevenGuthmiller]

Hmmm, I haven't noticed any problems using Testors "rattle cans" over the past few years. I sprayed this Chevy earlier this year with Testors Acapulco Blue and had no problems at all.

If it works for you Nick, go for it.

I personally won't go near the stuff after all of the problems I've had with their clear lacquer.

 

Steve

[High octane]

Oh I sometimes use Testors Clear and other times Tamiya Clear. When it comes to paint brands, I'm sworn to fun and loyal to none.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Oh I sometimes use Testors Clear and other times Tamiya Clear. When it comes to paint brands, I'm sworn to fun and loyal to none.

Makes sense.

 

Steve