Fitting front windshield

[iahawk]

Hello, I'm trying to complete the 53 Revell Vette that I started about a year ago..getting closer! Right now I'm stumped as to how to get the windshield to fit in the frame, as it is about 1/16 th of an inch too narrow. Pic is attached. It doesn't want to flex enough to spread out...I suppose I could just center it and split the difference..or leave it out altogether?

I have 2 of these kits ( for spares, 1st one had really twisted frame) and both windshields are identical. 

When complete I'll post pics (and I freely admit that I am of minimal talent and kind of a hack, but I'd sure like to get this finally put together!). Thanks.

 

[iahawk]

shoot, looks like I posted in wrong forum...can a mod move this to the 'questions and answers' section?..

Edited February 3, 2016 by iahawk

[Ace-Garageguy]

They'll probably move it.

I'm 99% sure I have that kit in stock. I'll have a look and see if I can think of anything...unless someone beats me to the optimum solution.  

Even though it's a curved windshield, I don't believe it's a compound-curve. In that case, one fix is always to make a new one rom clear styrene or acetate sheet. Clearer, and more scale-thickness too. 

Edited February 3, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[MrObsessive]

Ok, I built this one a looooong time ago (late '80's) and this kit suffers from the same malady that also afflicts their '57 Corvette. Seems as though the windshield frame has a bit of warp to it as the curvature of it has a larger radius than the cowl it's to fit on.

One way to check if there is warp, is simply lay the frame as is on top of your dashboard/cowl of your 'Vette. If the radius of the frame is larger than the cowl, it indeed is slightly warped. The windshield posts should line up 'bout perfect with the upper door trim on the body without any struggle.

Here's what I did and I'll warn you it's not for the faint of heart------------glue the windshield frame on the body with the posts lining up with the trim, holding it in place till it fully sets, then putting in your windshield. It looks like you've painted the body already so you'll have to do this carefully, as you of course don't want any glue smudges on the surrounding bodywork.

I recommend tube glue (sparingly) as opposed to liquid glue as it of course is thicker, and less likely to run on you. You could also carefully try super glue, but I'm not a big fan of that as you'll need to work fast, thus increasing your chances of ruining something else. After everything has dried nice and hard, your glass should slide right in without much effort. You could even use just some white glue to keep it in place if needed.

Hope all this helps! I have this kit as well, but haven't looked at it in ages-----it's just something peculiar I happen to remember about it as well as the '57 when I first built one (first kit actually), back in '78.

[iahawk]

Mr Obsessive..good memory! Upon a closer look, the chrome windshield frame is a little wide...and it takes a little squeeze to get a perfect fit. (Pics below).

maybe I should rephrase my original question..How would a novice best handle this? I have no ability to create a new windshield or anything like that..I've considered leaving the windshield out, but maybe that is a big time no-no?!

 

[Matt Bacon]

Set the cold tap running. Hold the end of the screen just above the spout of a boiling kettle for a few seconds (by holding the other end), take it out of the steam, switch grip to hold it firmly near the hot end, where the screen is the right shape, and then gently push the "point" of the window outwards. It should just flex out. If it resists, put it back in the steam for a few more seconds. When you've bent it so the point is that 1/16th inch wider, keep hold and stick the whole lot in the running cold water to set it. Do it carefully. More sophisticated techniques include clamping it firmly with a Wolf grip at the point where the windscreen's OK and holding it in the steam (that gives a really solid "fix" to the portion you don't want to bend), or using a tile with a smooth flat surface, dipping the rogue end of the windscreen in just off-the-boil water for 10-20 seconds, pressing the main screen onto the tile and "rolling" the point  outwards.

Basically, you want to make sure that the main bulk of the screen isn't moving anywhere, and the "unbending" of the softened plastic starts exactly where you want it, without flexing the middle of the screen backwards.

I had to do exactly the same to the rear U-shaped window in my Dino 246.

You can repeat the process until you get it unwound exactly as far as you need...

bestest,

M.

Edited February 3, 2016 by Matt Bacon

[Can-Con]

Before taking at that clear windshield  you might want to place it on the body like you did with the frame. I think you'll find that it's the frame that's off, not the glass. [as Bill said] 

 

If so, simply glue the frame to the glass, clamping them together at the ends until the glue's completely set , them glue it to the body as one assembly. 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Before taking at that clear windshield  you might want to place it on the body like you did with the frame. I think you'll find that it's the frame that's off, not the glass. [as Bill said] 

 

If so, simply glue the frame to the glass, clamping them together at the ends until the glue's completely set , them glue it to the body as one assembly. 

Exactly. I pulled a '53 off the shelf and opened it up, tried the same thing just now.

Though I didn't glue it, I taped the center and ends of the frame to the "glass" very carefully, then fitted the mocked-up assembly to the body.

This seems to be the hot setup, and will correct the poor fit at the ends of the frame to the body as well.

I also checked my '57, which uses different windshield frame and glass tooling. It fits well, as is. Perhaps it was corrected in later issues?

Edited February 4, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[iahawk]

You guys are great, thanks!  Yes, the window frame is off...if I squeeze it to fit on the car the glass drops right in and fits much better.  Looks like the problem is solved. 

There's nothing like the collective knowledge of a group of enthusiasts. Thanks, again.