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Vinyl tops, best way to make them?


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URL=http://public.fotki.com/MCRUZ1/1970-revell-cuda/image-16.html]Hosted on Fotki

URL=http://public.fotki.com/MCRUZ1/vinyl-top-tutorial-/charger6005.html]Hosted on Fotki

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I've never been crazy about the masking tape route either, I'd much rather use the tape for its true purpose. Just shoot the paint from a distance and once dry, lightly sand it with at least a 3200 grit sanding cloth and that's it. Enamel based gloss paint works best because it leaves a heavier orange peel which is what you are going for. Don't forget to add the strips that run from front to back.

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URL=http://public.fotki.com/MCRUZ1/1970-revell-cuda/image-16.html]Hosted on Fotki

URL=http://public.fotki.com/MCRUZ1/vinyl-top-tutorial-/charger6005.html]Hosted on Fotki

URL=http://public.fotki.com/MCRUZ1/my-models/revell-charger-engine.html]Hosted on Fotki

URL=http://public.fotki.com/MCRUZ1/my-models/outside-shots-of-10.html]Hosted on Fotki

I've never been crazy about the masking tape route either, I'd much rather use the tape for its true purpose. Just shoot the paint from a distance and once dry, lightly sand it with at least a 3200 grit sanding cloth and that's it. Enamel based gloss paint works best because it leaves a heavier orange peel which is what you are going for. Don't forget to add the strips that run from front to back.

Agreed

 

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/109786-are-there-any-video-tutorials-on-making-masking-tape-vinyl-tops/#comment-1562700

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I use 3-M spray-mount (spray adhesive).  Just a fine light coat to get the desired texture, let it dry, then paint.  I like Marcos's approach, too, although I've never tried it;  very convincing and it cuts out a step.

I used to do it that way also, it was a trick I learned from Jairus. The fact that this does eliminate that extra step does function better for me. I must apologize because the blue Charger shown on the image was done with the 3M Spray Mount, I just forgot about it. I think you get the same results with both techniques but I think the older I get, the lazier I am becoming.....:D

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I used Plastruct Styrene Strips for the top as well as the chrome molding that separates the body roof lines from the bottom part of the body. Make sure to add extra primer to the middle of the roof once you add the strips. You want to make sure to recreate the overlap look of the strips.

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URL=http://public.fotki.com/MCRUZ1/1970-revell-cuda/vinyltop2.html]Hosted on Fotki

URL=http://public.fotki.com/MCRUZ1/1970-revell-cuda/image-10.html]Hosted on Fotki

URL=http://public.fotki.com/MCRUZ1/1970-revell-cuda/image-12.html]Hosted on Fotki

 

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Thanks a million Cruz, you are a talented individual man. I'm going out today to buy me the materials needed to try this. Don't know who the moderator of the forum is but this should be pinned. Lots of great info here. Thanks again.

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In addition to all of the great information from others, a paint you might want to try is a Rust-Oleum product. It is designed to be used on indoor / outdoor projects. I used black but they have a few other colors. It dries with a fine textured finish in one coat. I suggest that if you use this that it would be the last thing you do on the body. I don't think you could mask over it and not have paint get under the tape. If you use a white color it could make a good base for lighter colored tops.    

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you can find it, Krylon has a rattle can product called Make It Suede and it requires minimal effort to come up with a great looking top (or bed liner, for a pick up truck). 

I still have a can of the tan.  I used it for the vinyl roof on a hearse I did last year  for NNL East.  Great stuff.  I've had my can I think at least 10 years

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