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Posted

I am working on a 68' Charger. My first model. Having a great time. My setup is: Testor airbrush hooked to airbrush propellant bottle from Hobbylobby. My questions are:

For acrylic paints, do you primer?

When is the proper time to hand paint or airbrush?

Do you paint all your parts first and then follow instructions or paint and build page by page?

When or should I switch to compressor and not bottle?

Should I switch to enemal? If so, what are the biggest pros?

How do I prevent paint running? Am I holding to close or have the dial open to much?

What do you do with all your models when done?

What do you use to prevent glue getting on you? Tweezers? 

Thanks. Any other info or tips appreciated. 

Posted

Wow Eric, that's a lot in one post.  I can answer a few.

I prime all major parts and most everything else.

i only hand paint when I have to.  Some interior parts, chassis parts I can't spray. Smaller parts.

I've yet to buy an airbrush but its on the radar.  I've been back in modeling for about two years.  It's really your call.  Mine is budgetary constraints.

Can't help you on the enamel/acrylic issue.  I use both.There's lots of info on the two, so I suggest Google.

Yes, paint runs when you are too close or spraying it on too heavy.  There are tutorials on the site.  You should peruse them.  I still find new tips after two years.

I have a shelf I keep my models on but its getting full.  They do get dusty up there so I might have to break out the air.  That's a personal choice as well.  I just disassembled one build.

Use glue sparingly.  Buy a box of toothpicks and apply your glue with them.  NEVER apply glue directly from the tube.  I've not had a problem getting glue on myself.

I reiterate; Go through the tutorials!

Oh, and have fun!!!

 

Posted
  On 3/10/2016 at 11:52 PM, Eloveless said:

I am working on a 68' Charger. My first model. Having a great time. My setup is: Testor airbrush hooked to airbrush propellant bottle from Hobbylobby. My questions are:

For acrylic paints, do you primer?

When is the proper time to hand paint or airbrush?

Do you paint all your parts first and then follow instructions or paint and build page by page?

When or should I switch to compressor and not bottle?

Should I switch to enemal? If so, what are the biggest pros?

How do I prevent paint running? Am I holding to close or have the dial open to much?

What do you do with all your models when done?

What do you use to prevent glue getting on you? Tweezers? 

Thanks. Any other info or tips appreciated. 

From my own personal experience, I recommend always using primer. It allows the paint to stick better and gives you much more even coverage.

I airbrush/Spray whenever possible...I only use a hand brush for detailing or very small parts.

I recommend test fitting everything, assembling everything that will use the same color that doesn't have to be taken apart to put the model together (for instance, chassis, engine, etc), then paint.

I still rattle-can everything. I just bought an Iwata airbrush, but I've yet to use it. I figured I'm always gonna use rattle-cans for certain things (primer, chassis, motors, everything except for the body basically), so I wanted to perfect that skill before moving to an airbrush. As far as what you're using, I can't say as I've never tried one.

This isn't really a yes or no question...I'm sure people could have a 30 page discussion about that.

Practice practice practice. keep your paint source about 10-12" from the model and spray in even, light coats. I've learned that it's best to wet-sand with 2000-3000 grit paper after every coat. Your first few coats shouldn't cover completely, they should be more of a mist, then the last 2 (or so) coats should be heavier, but not overly heavy.

I've got mine in the boxes still...I'm in the process of building a display case into a wall in the basement with built-in lighting and glass doors that seal (to keep as much dust out as possible). It's slow going but eventually I'll have a nice place to display my builds.

Like MeatMan suggested, go easy on glue and find something that works for you. I use toothpicks occasionally, but mostly I just use the bottle. I just switched to Model Master's glue with a precision metal applicator. It flows nice and slow and is easy to control.

I also highly recommend you pick up some rubber/plastic/latex gloves. I get mine by the hundreds at Harbor Freight for really cheap. They not only help you keep your hands clean, but prevent oils from your hands messing with the paint. There are many other tips I could provide, and thousands of tips more experienced builders than myself could give you, but honestly I think you should just cruise the forums. Also, check out this thread...lots of good info. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/108789-the-secret-to-building-a-better-model/?page=2#comment-1596941

Posted

Thanks for the tips. I will definitely go through the forums. Here is what I have done so far. Again, my first. Having a blast. Do y'all work on one project at a time? How long does it take you guys for one build if only going out of the box? I plan on doing a lot more straight out of the box builds of different variety before I go to creative. Already learning a ton of stuff on this first build. Love the tip about putting glue on tooth pick first. I will start doing that. I did use latex gloves. So I can use prime straight out of a spray can? That is good. I will start that next build. Let me know what you think about my car so far. Good or bad. 

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Posted

Looks great so far...much nicer than my first build! Yeah, you can use primer strait out of a rattle-can, just make sure it's not too "hot." Get a primer that's either made for the hobby (Testors, Tamiya), or something that's safe for use on plastics. I get mine at Oreilly Auto...it's the cheapest primer they carry. It does require a bit of wet-sanding to smooth it out, but 1 can will do about 2-3 models (priming every part) and it's like $2 per can...I just can't justify spending $5-7 on a can of Tamiya primer to do maybe 2 models...maybe once I get to the same level of skill as some of these other guys I'll be willing to splurge for it, but for the time being I'll stick with the cheap stuff. I do spring a bit though for the color coat. I mostly use Testors, but I just ordered some Tamiya, and I've used just over-the-counter spray paint as well.

Posted

Eric... I like the color on the Charger looks very nice..!   here is the best advise anyone ever gave me on building...(treat every part as if it were a model itself and building is no race take your own time on them)...it will pay off in your builds.  I have had some builds or restorations that took me over 3 months to complete.  Looks like your off to a good start to me.

Posted

Colby already answered you but I'll break it down as well :)

 

For acrylic paints, do you primer?

-I primer ALL THE THINGS!!! No I'm actually serious. Sometimes I skip it on small engine parts, but everything that I can primer, other than the windows and lights, I primer.

When is the proper time to hand paint or airbrush?

-My general rule of thumb is...if it's too small to do with an airbrush, you hand paint.

Do you paint all your parts first and then follow instructions or paint and build page by page?

-Most of the time paint first and then build up the components...this works out fine for almost all the cars, but some people do it the other way around. It really comes down to how you can get the best result.

When or should I switch to compressor and not bottle?

-This is totally up to you, and only you can make this choice. I have an airbrush with a compressor yet I still prefer rattle-can painting most of my stuff.

Should I switch to enemal? If so, what are the biggest pros?

-Lol...short answer is no. Try out all different types, pick the best for what you feel you want to do. People will tell you this that or the other, but it all comes down to which paint you can have the best success with.

How do I prevent paint running? Am I holding to close or have the dial open to much?

-Yes. Yes. You're most likely too close if you're closer than 10-12 inches. You can get away with 8" or so with a good airbrush, but then you gotta limit your dial, as you don't wanna spray like a fire hydrant. Patience...I always compare painting a model to painting a real car. For a real car (unless you're maaco) you wanna lay down 5-7 layers evenly so you can build it up.

What do you do with all your models when done?

-Once again, personal preference. I built a diorama with a garage and a parking lot and that's where most of my models rest. I plan to build more dioramas in the future. Others buy displays and whatnot.

What do you use to prevent glue getting on you? Tweezers? 

I use tweezers, and you gotta be VERY careful and only use a tweeny bit of glue at a time. Also, learn your different glues for body parts, styrene, headlights, windshield, etc etc.

Thanks. Any other info or tips appreciated

You're welcome. Keep doing awesome things and don't get discouraged if sh&% doesn't turn out good. Just keep pushing forward and learn from previous mistakes.

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