Paint variation

[dragstk]

I am building a Aoshima 1998 McLaren F1 GTR. Yesterday I painted the body, with Testors One coat lacquer (Fiery Orange). The models comes molded in black. I primed all body parts with Tamiya white primer. The Testors paint was decanted and allowed to gas out for a couple of hours. All parts were painted at the same time and the paint all came from the same rattle can

After about an hours drying time, I noticed that some of the body panels were a different shade from each other. It looks almost like there were  different base coats.

I can't get my camera to pick up the difference but in the daylight, its obvious.

 

So, short of stripping the body, anybody have any suggestions on how to fix this?

Thanks

 

[MrBuick]

From what I've heard, this happens sometimes with lacquers, and the colors should "even out" after polishing. That being said, I've never experienced it myself, but I've seen several other threads where people mentioned that.

[Ace-Garageguy]

This is a common problem with paints that include mica, pearl or metallic particles.

It happens on REAL cars too, and can be frustrating...and expensive... if you don't expect it and fail to take precautions prior to the problem.

In order to get exactly even color on every part and panel with some of these, you HAVE to paint the parts assembled. For instance, tape the hood in place when you shoot the body. 

When we shoot REAL cars with these special-effect paints, we HAVE to shoot the body with the doors on, and the hood and decklid in place. Look carefully the next time you're at a car show, and you'll see plenty of cars with minor color mis-matches from panel to panel, because the painter shot the parts NOT assembled.

The coverage of Testors Fiery Orange isn't really "one coat", so to get exactly even color with it, you MUST paint everything put together, not just at the same time.

I speak from experience. Look close, you'll notice this "Fiery Orange" car has a mis-matched decklid...because I had a problem with the primer crazing, got in a hurry to make a deadline, and shot the deck with the same paint, from the same can, on the same day, at the same temperature, but with the deck OFF the car.

 

Edited March 13, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[dragstk]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

MrBuick- your thinking the color will even out after clear coating and polishing? It has been my understanding that you can't polish metallic paints, as it will "flatten" out the metal chips in the paint.

Ace-Garageguy- you make a great point about painting everything all together. This is a lesson learned and will follow it next time I spray metallic. 1 question though. When do you paint the hood edges, door jams, etc?

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

  On 3/13/2016 at 5:09 PM, dragstk said:

MrBuick- your thinking the color will even out after clear coating and polishing? It has been my understanding that you can't polish metallic paints, as it will "flatten" out the metal chips in the paint.

Ace-Garageguy- you make a great point about painting everything all together. This is a lesson learned and will follow it next time I spray metallic. 1 question though. When do you paint the hood edges, door jams, etc?

1) if the paint doesn't match as-sprayed, no amount of polishing and clearing will magically make it change.

And you're absolutely correct about sanding and polishing bare, non-cleared metallics, pearls and micas. Sometimes you'll find a paint that will let you get away with it, but more often than not, you disturb the metallic particles, uncover them unevenly, and end up with blotches and streaks.

2) It's a pain, but just like on real cars, you shoot the jambs and edges first (being very careful to avoid dry overspray on the body and parts), then hang everything together temporarily, and paint the whole body in one go.

[MrObsessive]

I second what Bill said about polishing metallics. Most of the time it's a big no-no because of what he described. I can only think of one instance where I was able to polish a metallic paint, and that's on my '69 Daytona from years ago.

This Hemi Orange has a very subtle metallic which I was able to rub out without that mottled, swirly look that comes from rubbing those out too much.

And yes, if doing a car with opening doors and such, it's better to paint those inside areas first, let it thoroughly dry, then paint it all as a whole. This is especially true for candy colors where it's a good idea to also count your strokes for each panel, and paint in a criss-cross motion to get everything all nice and even.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I will just add that as long as you have "room" for more paint, ( ie. you won't cover up all of the detail) I would try just taping all of the parts into position at this point & shooting one more coat of color over the whole thing.

Hopefully it will even it all out.

It's worth a shot before you go through the hassle of stripping & re-painting.

 

Steve

[dragstk]

A big thank you for all the efforts to answer my question. I really appreciate it.

Steven- I thought about doing another light over all coat of paint. Ive got 2 concerns with this though. My thought that another coat will just darken all the paint and leave the variations. And the doors already fir tight, with the amount of paint on the car. More paint will make body parts fit tighter.

So, I guess my choices are strip it or live with it

But I learned from this, and thanks to all of you, Ill do better next time

Thanks again

[StevenGuthmiller]

  On 3/13/2016 at 9:10 PM, dragstk said:

 

Steven- I thought about doing another light over all coat of paint. Ive got 2 concerns with this though. My thought that another coat will just darken all the paint and leave the variations.

I'm not all that familiar with the Testors "One Coats" but with the automotive paints that I use, the paint has little or no transparency so additional coats tend to even out colors, even if you paint parts separately.

Once coverage is complete, the color just becomes......the color.

One of the reasons I like MCW paints.

I have almost zero problems with issues like this.

 

Steve