Newbie: Food Dehydrators & Paint Dryers Question

[69NovaYenko]

My Nesco food dehydrator yesterday. Since I`m on vacation this morning was spent opening up the trays so for parts can set inside.

I read the 2003 post of “Food Dehydrators & Paint Dryers” and was able to gleaned a lot of valid info. However, what should I hold the freshly painted body on? In the post there were several comments alluding to tensioned metal stands could cause body warpage. The post never confirmed or denied the statement. So, first off is this true or false? And, if this is true what does one set a freshly paint wet body on?

 

Edited May 19, 2016 by 69NovaYenko

[TarheelRick]

I usually leave the painted body on my Tamiya paint stand for drying in my dehydrator.  So far I have had no issues of warpage.  Not sure if other forms of paint stands will cause damage or not.  I use my dehydrator for drying putty, decals, washed bodies as well as for paint.  Just keep an eye on the temperature. 

[69NovaYenko]

Thanks for the reply. Hummm...had not thought of the other possibilities for the Nesco such as drying putty, decals, washed bodies as well as for paint. Thanks for the advise as well as ideas for other uses for the dehydrator.

[BigTallDad]

I never use a combination of a painted body on a paint stand that uses spring tension and the heat of a dehydrator. The heat and pressure will cause the body to expand/splay out. I found this out the hard way on a '48 Ford Convertible. That error can be remedied, but it requires more than a modicum of woodworking skills.

Consider using plastic beverage bottles...fill it about half full (for stability) of water, cap it, and use double-sided tape on the cap; then place the model on the cap (attaching to the underside of the roof).

if you're using the foamy tape (virtually impossible to remove from plastic), put some masking tape on an attach point on the inside of the roof. That way you can easily remove the masking tape, which will include the foam tape.

I use double-sided tape meant for putting new grips on golf clubs. It works GREAT! Go to a local golf shop and buy it by the roll or in a pack that will re-grip about a dozen clubs.

Edited May 19, 2016 by BigTallDad

[Art Anderson]

I never use a combination of a painted body on a paint stand that uses spring tension and the heat of a dehydrator. The heat and pressure will cause the body to expand/splay out. I found this out the hard way on a '48 Ford Convertible. That error can be remedied, but it requires more than a modicum of woodworking skills.

Consider using plastic beverage bottles...fill it about half full (for stability) of water, cap it, and use double-sided tape on the cap; then place the model on the cap (attaching to the underside of the roof).

if you're using the foamy tape (virtually impossible to remove from plastic), put some masking tape on an attach point on the inside of the roof. That way you can easily remove the masking tape, which will include the foam tape.

I use double-sided tape meant for putting new grips on golf clubs. It works GREAT! Go to a local golf shop and buy it by the roll or in a pack that will re-grip about a dozen clubs.

And yet, I let body shells "air dry" then simply set them in my Dehydrator (Oster, bought at Walmart about 4 yrs ago), finish the drying process that way--have yet to see any marks along the bottom edges of any body shell I've baked that way!

Art

[69NovaYenko]

Thanks for all the advise one and all.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

Art, I think I will try your method of drying body shells. I`m using automotive Acrylic Enamels,as well as  Lacquers paints and clearcoats. I`m also keeping the temp at 105 degrees. How long do you allow the painted body shell to air dry  before placing it in the dehydrator? And, how long do you leave the painted body shell cin the dehydrator.

Edited May 20, 2016 by 69NovaYenko

[Art Anderson]

Thanks for all the advise one and all.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

Art, I think I will try your method of drying body shells. I`m using automotive Acrylic Enamels,as well as  Lacquers paints and clearcoats. I`m also keeping the temp at 105 degrees. How long do you allow the painted body shell to air dry  before placing it in the dehydrator? And, how long do you leave the painted body shell cin the dehydrator.

My Oster is preset at 120F, which is quite safe for polystyrene and any paint that I will ever use.  I usually let a body shell air dry at room temperature for 25-30 minutes, which is enough time for lacquers to dry to the touch, even Scale Finishes Acrylic Enamels.  When I put the body in the dehydrator, I plan on leaving it in there for at least a couple of hours, but at least once I forgot a body in that unit for several hours--and no deleterious effects occurred!  But, a couple of hours on an airbrushed paintjob I've found to be quite adequate, after which the body shell can be polished and waxed.

Art

[modelercarl]

I use the same method as Art outlined above,  never have had any problems.

[69NovaYenko]

My Oster is preset at 120F, which is quite safe for polystyrene and any paint that I will ever use.  I usually let a body shell air dry at room temperature for 25-30 minutes, which is enough time for lacquers to dry to the touch, even Scale Finishes Acrylic Enamels.  When I put the body in the dehydrator, I plan on leaving it in there for at least a couple of hours, but at least once I forgot a body in that unit for several hours--and no deleterious effects occurred!  But, a couple of hours on an airbrushed paintjob I've found to be quite adequate, after which the body shell can be polished and waxed.

Art

Art thanks for the guidance..