Future floor wax question

[DrKerry]

Humidity is what I'm thinking happened to mine to cause it to do what it did. The cover that I did on Sunday is looking pretty good, really clear with no issues and there was almost no humidity....

[Jon Haigwood]

Humidity is what I'm thinking happened to mine to cause it to do what it did. The cover that I did on Sunday is looking pretty good, really clear with no issues and there was almost no humidity....

That happened to me, I just let it site under a light and it and it cleared up.

[Dave Van]

I bought my first bottle   around 1981.....took me about 12 years to use it up.......worked fine to the end....only on 3rd bottle now.

[martinfan5]

Being honest, I gave on using this stuff as a clear coat a few years ago,   my last few times at using it, after a few months, the entire body was covered in spiderweb cracks,  so I have no idea why it kept happening , this happened on about 3 out the 5 that I used it on.   I read somewhere that if the paint isnt cured that will casue it, but I busted that one,  as one of them had been painted about a year before, and it was lacquer paint.

So for the TL/DR,  I will only use this stuff for making clear parts look better.

[Dave Van]

Being honest, I gave on using this stuff as a clear coat a few years ago,   my last few times at using it, after a few months, the entire body was covered in spiderweb cracks,  so I have no idea why it kept happening , this happened on about 3 out the 5 that I used it on.   I read somewhere that if the paint isnt cured that will casue it, but I busted that one,  as one of them had been painted about a year before, and it was lacquer paint.

So for the TL/DR,  I will only use this stuff for making clear parts look better.

The cracking has two causes I have found after 30+ years of use.

1. Every time I used it over Tamiya or other water based paint the Future had cracking issues. Per people that know more than I do.....it's a combo of slow dry time for the paint abd chemical reaction. I stopped using water base after that.

2. Solvent based paint 'gassing out' will cause Future cracking. Easy fix......use dehydrator to cure paint or allow paint to FULLY cure.....like a month or two. 

Following these rules I have not had the issue since 1981........thx

[DrKerry]

Good info Dave!!!!!!

[Harry Joy]

I have used Future on all of my models for a very long time. Up until about three years ago, I used Model Master Acrylics for almost 100% of my finishes. I would often clear coat a day or so after finishing the final coat, but sometimes the same day if I had time. Not only would I clear coat every model, I would dip all the clear parts. After the Future coat dried, which WOULD take a full day, I would apply decals. After decals were thoroughly dry, yep, another coat of clear.

For a while I would finish roughly two kits a month. I have had zero, zilch, nada in the way of cracking. And I live in a humid environment.

If I were building a really old kits, say 50 years, and I felt like using the 50 year old decals, I would positively drench the model in Future, and apply the decals into the wet pool of Future. The Future would always suck the decals right down like they were painted.

Now that I am building cars, and for a couple of years prior to my "experiment" with cars, I primarily use lacquers. I still have never seen Future crack.

 

I'm not saying it cannot happen. There is plenty of anecdotal evidence above to say it does. But I have been a heavy user for ages, and I have never seen it. So there's anecdotal evidence from the other side too.

 

 

[Dave Van]

True.....I'd not say 'never' or 'always' about others methods.......too many variables.......

Just sighting my own experiences with said product.  

[martinfan5]

The cracking has two causes I have found after 30+ years of use.

1. Every time I used it over Tamiya or other water based paint the Future had cracking issues. Per people that know more than I do.....it's a combo of slow dry time for the paint abd chemical reaction. I stopped using water base after that.

2. Solvent based paint 'gassing out' will cause Future cracking. Easy fix......use dehydrator to cure paint or allow paint to FULLY cure.....like a month or two. 

Following these rules I have not had the issue since 1981........thx

Good info, but I what to add ive had it cracked over all different paints and cure times,  the longest was a year cure time over Model Master Lacquer , and it still cracked.   Had it crack over Scale Finishes paint.   So I am at lost.

[Dave Van]

Good info, but I what to add ive had it cracked over all different paints and cure times,  the longest was a year cure time over Model Master Lacquer , and it still cracked.   Had it crack over Scale Finishes paint.   So I am at lost.

Yep......as I said just above your post........lots of variables!!!!  I'm just happy I do not have issues with my methods. FYI I apply the Future with a dedicated sable brush only.....

[martinfan5]

Yep......as I said just above your post........lots of variables!!!!  I'm just happy I do not have issues with my methods. FYI I apply the Future with a dedicated sable brush only.....

Right, every time I used foam brushes .

[Harry Joy]

Right, every time I used foam brushes .

Oh, that there is probably the BIG variable. I rarely brush it on. Pretty much the only time I brush it is when, as I posted above, I am drenching a spot to receive an ancient decal. My customary uses are for dipping clear parts, in which my vehicle of application is a foam cup, and for overall clear coats, for which I airbrush the Future.

[martinfan5]

Oh, that there is probably the BIG variable. I rarely brush it on. Pretty much the only time I brush it is when, as I posted above, I am drenching a spot to receive an ancient decal. My customary uses are for dipping clear parts, in which my vehicle of application is a foam cup, and for overall clear coats, for which I airbrush the Future.

And Ive got cracking from applying it with an A/B too , I really am at a lost. 

[Mike999]

Here's a page full of great ideas for using Future/Pledge, from Matt Swan.

Using a tip from that page, I recently clear-coated a body (over decals) with the following ratio. I used an Aztek airbrush and it came out looking good: 70% Future, 30% isopropyl alcohol and a smidgen of Tamiya Flat Base, to cut the gloss.  The alcohol was 91% isopropyl, BTW. I sprayed over Testor's rattlecan Gloss White, on an Aoshima body.

Another great tip for side-marker lights etc.: mix the Future with Tamiya clear color paints, like red and green.

THE COMPLETE FUTURE by Matt Swan

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html