Orange peel eegads

[JerseeJerry55]

Help. I thought I did the right steps. Prepped my 1970 Buick GSX with primer. Sanded the primer somewhat. Taped off the engine bay and rocker panel trim. Then shot her with Tamiya TS-19 Metalic Blue. What shows up next is rough spots on the roof and trunk lid only. Knew I'd screw up somewhere. Can anyone suggest corrective measures? My thoughts are maybe not warm enough when I painted her (about 66 degrees last night), stick with enamels, or I should've waited a bit longer to paint her or what I believe to be the real cause. I plain suck at painting. Anyways if anyone can help I'd surely appreciate it. Thanks for looking.    ,

[StevenGuthmiller]

Doesn't look like orange peel to me.

Looks like the paint is "grainy".

Most likely caused from holding the can too far away from the body.

 

Steve

[JerseeJerry55]

Okay thanks. How do I get rid of it.

[High octane]

I would let it dry for a couple of days, and then lightly sand the areas with 1000 grit sand paper/cloth. Then clean off all sanding residue and re shoot the area lightly, then wait 'bout 20 minutes and shoot the whole body. Keep your nozzle closer to the body and you should be fine. Painting is not that hard to do and I'm sure that you'll get it soon.

[Harry P.]

Rather than going through the time and effort of sanding the whole body, you might just want to strip the paint and start over.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Rather than going through the time and effort of sanding the whole body, you might just want to strip the paint and start over.

Yup. Strip it.

Then, get a Coke or water bottle. Scrub it with Comet and hot water to get a nice 'tooth.'

Primer it like you'd do a model. Prep / sand the same way you'd do primer on a model.

PRACTICE painting the bottle until you learn how to shoot it slick and even.

THEN go back and paint your model.

[JerseeJerry55]

Every other part of the body looks good EXCEPT the left corner of the trunk and that area of the roof. Not sure about stripping the paint a little hesitant. So I will try the 1st option. Since it's my first foray into in years I think this first one is trial and error and as I move forward each one should get better. Thanks for all the suggestions.

[JerseeJerry55]

I would let it dry for a couple of days, and then lightly sand the areas with 1000 grit sand paper/cloth. Then clean off all sanding residue and re shoot the area lightly, then wait 'bout 20 minutes and shoot the whole body. Keep your nozzle closer to the body and you should be fine. Painting is not that hard to do and I'm sure that you'll get it soon.

Should I wet sand it?

[High octane]

Sure.

[JerseeJerry55]

So after wet sanding reprime or just shoot the lacquer again? Sorry for so many questions just disappointed in my effort so far.

[StevenGuthmiller]

So after wet sanding reprime or just shoot the lacquer again? Sorry for so many questions just disappointed in my effort so far.

Once the texture is sanded out, as long as you're using the same color, you can just shoot another coat or 2 over it.

No need to re-prime.

 

Steve

[JerseeJerry55]

Once the texture is sanded out, as long as you're using the same color, you can just shoot another coat or 2 over it.

No need to re-prime.

 

Steve

Thank you so much. I guess I need to paint a little bit closer to the body of the car.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Thank you so much. I guess I need to paint a little bit closer to the body of the car.

Lacquer dries extremely quickly.

So quickly that what you're seeing is the paint has dried in the air before it reached the surface of the model, hence the "graininess".

Spray a little closer & it should eliminate the problem.

Getting the correct distance down so that it becomes habit can be one of the most difficult aspects of painting.

I've been painting for 40+ years & I still have issues on occasion.

 

Steve

[Mike 1017]

I bought Don Youst DVD Airbrushing Model Cars. Getting away from rattle cans is best move I have ever made. My biggest complaint is that the cans spit out clumps of ?. When ever I strain de-canted or a bottle mix there are always clumps ? trapped in the strainer . 

Good luck

Mike

[High octane]

I bought Don Youst DVD Airbrushing Model Cars. Getting away from rattle cans is best move I have ever made. My biggest complaint is that the cans spit out clumps of ?. When ever I strain de-canted or a bottle mix there are always clumps ? trapped in the strainer . 

Good luck

Mike

I'm just the opposite of you as I ditched my air-brushes and compressor so now I have no fuss, no mess, no mixing, no adjusting air pressure, no clean up, no noise. Just "shake 'n spray" and I've been very happy with my paint jobs over the years including fades and two/triple tones also.

[Mike 1017]

I tried cleaning out the nozzle on brand new cans before using, shaking the can for a couple of minutes, put in hot water, and shake again. More times than not it would spit out clumps. I only have used Testors cans.

Mike

 

[High octane]

Offhand, I don't recall any problems with spray cans from Testors, Tamiya, Black Gold, MCW, or Dupli-Color paints.

[Xingu]

Painting the chassis and interior first can give you a little practice before tackling the body. When I am painting the exterior, I have been starting with the hood and other small parts before I move to the main body shell. It really is just practice and seeing how each type of paint lays down. I have just started using an airbrush and find it to be MUCH EASIER than I thought it would be. The airbrush also gives you much more control over how much or how little paint is sprayed.