Belly Tanker resin kit from Star Models

[Mr. Metallic]

I pulled the trigger and ordered the belly tanker kit from Star Models. It consists of resin parts for the frame, engine and interior, vacuum formed parts for the upper and lower body shell, engine cover and interior bulkhead, various lengths and materials on tubing, and 4 black resin wheel/tires pieces.

The resin castings for the engine look like they are based on the Revell 50 Ford pickup, which IMHO, is one of the best flatheads ever kitted, so it's a good place to start for a resin casting. They parts will require a little cleanup, but are free of defects.

The vacuum formed parts are well done, and look like they will only need minor cleanup. Care will probably be required when fitting the engine cover to the body because the material is very thin. Trim too far and it's probably ruined.

Overall, this looks like a strong starting point for a belly tank racer. It's definitely not going to be a shake and bake endeavor, with a bit of scratchbuilding and modifying parts from other kits to complete it. My only question is the size of the tank. To me it seems oversized, but I could be wrong. I know there were several different sizes of aircraft drop tanks, but this one seems really big. In the photo you can see it's measured against a 1/25 scale ruler. I could be off base, so someone knowledgeable feel free to correct me

It may take me awhile before I put it on my bench, but it looks like a good starting point.

 

[cobraman]

I would be very interested in looking in when you begin this kit. I may have to get one myself.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Pretty cool. I've been thinking of getting one of these for quite a while, but have held off until I could see more of what's in the kit.

I'm curious as to what tank is represented. The most popular tank was the P-38 unit, which is about 13' 3" long, including the flanges, if I remember correctly. 

This one appears to be a little shorter.

[Agent G]

Looking forward to this one for sure.

Don"t "cut" away the excess, use the back of a sharp blade and score the line until it either breaks free, or you can easily break it free. That engine compartment shouldn't be too hard to remove that way. You can then get in and sand lightly. 

Trivia: WWII vintage P-38 drop tanks were preferred, as they were some of the largest carried. 315 gallons and two for each airplane meant there were quite a few left over after the war. 

I have heard of a build where a Ford V8-60 was mounted in a F4U Corsair 160 gal drop tank before. That had to be a small driver for sure.

G

[Mr. Metallic]

Looking forward to this one for sure.

Don"t "cut" away the excess, use the back of a sharp blade and score the line until it either breaks free, or you can easily break it free. That engine compartment shouldn't be too hard to remove that way. You can then get in and sand lightly. 

Trivia: WWII vintage P-38 drop tanks were preferred, as they were some of the largest carried. 315 gallons and two for each airplane meant there were quite a few left over after the war. 

I have heard of a build where a Ford V8-60 was mounted in a F4U Corsair 160 gal drop tank before. That had to be a small driver for sure.

G

I appreciate the advice on opening the panel, and I am familiar with how to do it. But, with the nature of a vacuum formed part, there is not a clearly defined line to scribe through. So, all I was saying , is that care must be taken no matter what method is used to open the panel.

[Jonathan]

I'm glad you've shared this information.  I have considered buying this in the past, but was hesitant to pull the trigger.  I'm looking forward to seeing where you go with it!