Lacquer over Pledge Floor Care Finish?

[MrObsessive]

 

While I don't build cars particularly of this era-----they're not my specific cup of tea, THIS ONE IS GORGEOUS Harry!

And yes, Future is at its best if you brush it on. I've airbrushed it, but you have to work fast and with low air pressure to keep runs and sags mostly at bay. In the past, I've used a "sponge" brush to put it on-----those can be found at any arts and crafts store and come in various sizes. The wider brushes do work best however.

[Snake45]

Really? Even after seeing my results?

What do you base your opinion on?

Your results are fine, so the stuff is obviously working for you.  I'm sorry if you took my comment as some sort of personal slight. Not meant that way at all.

There are a number of other products that work better for me.

[aurfalien]

Not specifically, no.

I use a 3/4" wide, flat, soft sable brush, and brush one area at a time..,. left front fender, right front fender, left rear fender, right rear fender, left side of body, right side of body, etc. By doing it in sections, I have control over runs and sags. Future is very thin, basically the consistency of water. I have tried airbrushing it, but it tends to run and sag no matter how carefully I airbrush it. Doing it one section at a time by brush gives me ultimate control... any runs or sags, I can use the corner of a paper towel to sop up the excess. It's a slow process, and probably not for everyone... but it works for me, as the photos I have posted prove. Brushing it on vs. airbrushing it gives me control over each section. It's probably not a method most guys would go for, but like I said, it works for me, and the photos are the proof.

Yep, I'm trying it now.  Very cool work flow and no rush.  I brush on a section or two, dab the access with the brush once I wipe it on a towel, put the brush down, ponder life a bit and continue.

I watched a Dr. Craky vid on air brushing it which looked easy enough but prefer brush painting, more zen.

[Cato]

Not specifically, no.

I use a 3/4" wide, flat, soft sable brush, and brush one area at a time..,. left front fender, right front fender, left rear fender, right rear fender, left side of body, right side of body, etc. By doing it in sections, I have control over runs and sags. Future is very thin, basically the consistency of water. I have tried airbrushing it, but it tends to run and sag no matter how carefully I airbrush it. Doing it one section at a time by brush gives me ultimate control... any runs or sags, I can use the corner of a paper towel to sop up the excess. It's a slow process, and probably not for everyone... but it works for me, as the photos I have posted prove. Brushing it on vs. airbrushing it gives me control over each section. It's probably not a method most guys would go for, but like I said, it works for me, and the photos are the proof.

Harry, what's the fully-dry timeframe when brushing on large parts like fenders etc.? When can you safely handle them? I brush on small, detail parts for gloss and it dries very quickly used like that.

[Buffs Fan]

After reading a previous post on using Future I did a final coat on a 67 Chevelle and love the results however there were 2 things that I had happen

1. I used an acrylic black to detail the door lines cowl vents etc. and the Future lifted those right off the body

2. I have noticed that it has cracked in a couple of spots

but again that was the first and only time I used it and I'm sure as I get more experience with it I can eliminate those kinds of issues

 

 

Mike

 

[Harry P.]

Your results are fine, so the stuff is obviously working for you.  I'm sorry if you took my comment as some sort of personal slight. Not meant that way at all.

There are a number of other products that work better for me.

I wasn't offended at all. Just curious as to why you had a negative opinion of the stuff.

[Harry P.]

Harry, what's the fully-dry timeframe when brushing on large parts like fenders etc.? When can you safely handle them? I brush on small, detail parts for gloss and it dries very quickly used like that.

I guess that would depend on temp and humidity. My guess... around 15-30 minutes? If you can still smell the Future, it's not quite dry yet.

[Harry P.]

While I don't build cars particularly of this era-----they're not my specific cup of tea, THIS ONE IS GORGEOUS Harry!

Thanks, Bill. Here are a few more angles...

[Snake45]

I wasn't offended at all. Just curious as to why you had a negative opinion of the stuff.

Because it hasn't worked as well for me on model cars as some other products have. (I have been using the stuff since the '70s so I'm pretty familiar with its strengths and weaknesses.)

I could give you a detailed bill of particulars, but it would probably rate its own thread, and I don't especially want to set off another firestorm like the Red Bleed one of last week.

[AC Norton]

Because it hasn't worked as well for me on model cars as some other products have. (I have been using the stuff since the '70s so I'm pretty familiar with its strengths and weaknesses.)

I could give you a detailed bill of particulars, but it would probably rate its own thread, and I don't especially want to set off another firestorm like the Red Bleed one of last week.

ah, c'mon Richard, jump in on another topic....you're the most interesting man in the world, remember.....the Ace..........

[aurfalien]

Thanks, Bill. Here are a few more angles...

Man this thing is a stunner.  The green really accents the silver and gold.  Super classy.

[Harry P.]

Thanks, Brian. It's a Duesenberg, and their engines were painted in that characteristic bright apple green color.

[Snake45]

ah, c'mon Richard, jump in on another topic....you're the most interesting man in the world, remember.....the Ace..........

And open myself up to more abuse? I don't think so. I know what works and doesn't work for me. Others have other ways and beliefs. There are many paths to the top of the mountain.

[Harry P.]

 There are many paths to the top of the mountain.

But some paths are smoother than others.

[AC Norton]

And open myself up to more abuse? I don't think so. I know what works and doesn't work for me. Others have other ways and beliefs. There are many paths to the top of the mountain.

well, you are certainly correct on that note, Richard. all of us use methods, products, ways of building, etc.,,,that are usually uniquely our own. whatever works for you is my theory on all of it concerning model building. I think that guys like yourself, and, well, me as well, have a way of doing things engrained in our building style that was present  back in the teen years, and even though our builds have hopefully improved a zillion per cent, some of those old habits and methods die hard, if they ever do.......the Ace....

[Snake45]

But some paths are smoother than others.

Right. Which is why I don't use Future for a final finish on cars.

Wait, I can think of one case where it's perhaps the best product. You've got an old "survivor" model that you don't want to strip and completely rebuild for whatever reason (sheer nostalgia, most likely). The paint on it is smooth but maybe in a color you can't get or duplicate anymore, but it doesn't have much if any shine to it (like an old AMT or Pactra lacquer), and it doesn't seem to be thick enough to polish. It's got some silver-painted "chrome" trim on it, which would be damaged or ruined by almost any kind of spray-on clear enamel or lacquer, and maybe you can't even get the thing disassembled, or can't get the too-glued windows out of it. This is a great use for a coat or two of brushed-on Future. And if it doesn't work out, it will come right back off with common household ammonia. I've done this on a couple old models, and it works pretty well.

Future also makes a great protective coating for fragile old chrome.

[StevenGuthmiller]

But some paths are smoother than others.

That's objective too Harry.

What' smooth for some, may not be for others.

One example I immediately think of, while we're on the topic of clear coating, is Testors "Wet Look" & other clears.

A lot of people swear by them, & I'll admit, I have had good results with them for the most part.

But just that couple of times that I didn't was enough to sour me on their usage.

Some may think me a fool for not using them, but from my personal experience, I will not.

This is what needs to be taken into consideration when someones experiences may not be the same as your own.

 

Steve

 

[Snake45]

 I think that guys like yourself, and, well, me as well, have a way of doing things engrained in our building style that was present  back in the teen years, and even though our builds have hopefully improved a zillion per cent, some of those old habits and methods die hard, if they ever do.......the Ace....

I guess I'm still doing some things the way I did in the '60s, but I've picked up a lot of different techniques during the '80s, '90s, and up to today. I learned a LOT of good stuff by seriously building model airplanes for a couple decades (still do them, too). I'm into whatever WORKS for me--new, old, anything in between.

[Harry P.]

This is what needs to be taken into consideration when someones experiences may not be the same as your own.

You need to read more carefully.

I never cast aspersions on Rich's methods. Heck, I don't even know Rich's methods! I only asked why he said Future makes a lousy clear coat, because it obviously works very well for that purpose. I only wanted to hear his explanation, not try to get him to agree with my method.

[StevenGuthmiller]

You need to read more carefully.

I never cast aspersions on Rich's methods. Heck, I don't even know Rich's methods! I only asked why he said Future makes a lousy clear coat, because it obviously works very well for that purpose. I only wanted to hear his explanation, not try to get him to agree with my method.

I never mentioned his methods either.

We're talking about a product.

A product that obviously Rich did not find to be useful for clear coating paint.

Just because something "obviously" works for particular purpose does not mean that everyone will have a positive experience with it.

Obviously, at some point, Rich tried using Future as a clear coat & was not satisfied with the result.

For "him" it was a lousy clear coat.

Why is that so difficult to accept?

 

Steve

[Harry P.]

Obviously, at some point, Rich tried using Future as a clear coat & was not satisfied with the result.

For "him" it was a lousy clear coat.

Why is that so difficult to accept?

You just don't get it.

I accept that he doesn't like Future as a clear coat.

All I ever asked of him was "why not?"

In fact, this whole debate began when Rich said "I consider Future to be an inferior product for a final finish for a model car, though, and would never use it that way."

And I said "What do you base your opinion on?"

In no way did I ever disparage or refuse to accept Rich's methods, because Rich never revealed his methods. All I did was ask him a simple question... and now somehow we're involved in some sort of online war of words? Sheesh...

[StevenGuthmiller]

You just don't get it.

I accept that he doesn't like Future as a clear coat.

All I ever asked of him was "why not?"

"Why not" is because it didn't work for "him".

Why don't you use Testors clear coat?

It was never my intention to have any "wars".

To me it's just a discussion.

Just as you're curious as to why Rich thinks that Future is an inferior clear coat, I'm interested as to why it seems to upset you that he feels that way.

 

Steve

Edited July 6, 2016 by StevenGuthmiller

[Snake45]

I never said it was a "lousy" product. I said IMHO it was "inferior," meaning I think other things work better.

If I HAD to get by with nothing but Future, I suppose I could do so, but until then, I'd prefer to work with things that work better for me.

[935k3]

I love Future. It is the safest and most forgiving of all clears. I have learned to wipe it on with circular cosmetic pads. The cracking is only a problem when applied over some water based acrylics especially Tamiya. It may crack over enamels that are not completely cured. I like wiping it on because I can keep it off areas I don't want to have gloss. I have found that Zymol brand wax enhances and deepens the gloss. Other waxes seem to remove the Future. I have been using it for 30 years.

[aurfalien]

The cracking is only a problem when applied over some water based acrylics especially Tamiya. It may crack over enamels that are not completely cured.

That's very interesting.  Well Tamiya acrylics are technically solvent based; ie alcohol.  So could the cracking you've experienced be due to it not being fully cured?

I'd think true water based acrylics like Vallejo would not cause Future to crack.