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Questions about builds on the following


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Good day all,

Have questions about builds about 2 separate AMT Heavy Trucks. The GMC General and the LN8000 Short Hauler. Since I stopped building models before the AMT General came out is a difficult build? Also on the Ford Short Hauler what is the easiest process to assemble the cargo box? If I remember back to my non patient this effin trailer is a pain in the caboose days I wasn't good at assembling floors to sidewalls to roofs. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

JerseeJerry56

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The General/Bison is not a terribly hard kit and a bit better about having positive mounting locations for things than the early AMT semi trucks but the last issue of the General in the early 2000s was a warped mess. The Bison in the dark blue box from the mid 2000s is much straighter and easier to deal with and identical to the General except for the grill ad decals. If you're dead set on a General get the early Matchbox release, avoid the gray and black box with the gold truck on it unless you get a super deal on it and don't mind sitting down with a hair drier to straighten all the pieces out. I've never built the box on the 8000 so I'm not much help there.

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I've got the Ford LN going at the moment, getting the roll up door right was a pain, but other than that I didn't have any serious issues with the cargo box. The truck hood can be somewhat fiddly, I glued it down the last time I built one, I plan an building it with an opening hood this time around.

Other than those two issues it is a fairly painless kit to build. 

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When I built the box I had trouble with the roll up door so I sanded the edge where it fits in the groove/track and that made it move up and down without binding.  It said use tape to hold the sections together so I used regular masking tape.  Over the years the masking tape dried up so next time I would use duct tape.

 

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I've got the Ford LN going at the moment, getting the roll up door right was a pain, but other than that I didn't have any serious issues with the cargo box. The truck hood can be somewhat fiddly, I glued it down the last time I built one, I plan an building it with an opening hood this time around.

Other than those two issues it is a fairly painless kit to build. 

Aaron

Thanks. When you say fiddly do you mean how it tilts, or fits against the front firewall?

Jerry

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Aaron

Thanks. When you say fiddly do you mean how it tilts, or fits against the front firewall?

Jerry

I had trouble getting it to sit flush the last time around. I could hold it in place with light pressure, but it would lift up leaving a gap when I stopped pressing down. Probably just a matter of getting the hinges just right. Not an uncommon problem with tilt hoods, but being a shorty it seems to be worse than some.

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I built the LN8000 Short Hauler a couple of years ago.  No real problems that I remember, but I did shorten the frame a bit to get the box to sit closer to the cab as I wasn't using the exhaust stack.  Also, the hoods on the AMT Ford LN/LNT8000 kits are not hinged.  they can be hinged pretty easily though with some brass tubing & rod.  Here is my LN8000:

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I built the LN8000 Short Hauler a couple of years ago.  No real problems that I remember, but I did shorten the frame a bit to get the box to sit closer to the cab as I wasn't using the exhaust stack.  Also, the hoods on the AMT Ford LN/LNT8000 kits are not hinged.  they can be hinged pretty easily though with some brass tubing & rod.  Here is my LN8000:

12DriversSide.jpg

That's a real nice example of the LN8000. If I wanted to do the hinge could styrene tubing be used along with the brass rod? I wish I could do work like yours. 

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You can use plastic tube, but it's a little bulky to hid behind the front bumper.

Here is a shot of the tilted hood:

Engine (prior to radiator brace being added):

Interior:

As to the build, it's just smooth application of rattle can paint & some aftermarket decals from a guy who is now out of business.

PM me your address, and I'll send you the articles for detailing to hood & brake lines (didn't do that on this one).

Here is the article I used to detail the Caterpillar 3208:

http://public.fotki.com/modeltrucks25thscale/model_magazine_articles/car_modeller/cm09_sept_1991_cate/

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You can use plastic tube, but it's a little bulky to hid behind the front bumper.

Here is a shot of the tilted hood:

11TiltingHood.jpg

Engine (prior to radiator brace being added):

10EngineTop.jpg

Interior:

03LN8000Interior.jpg

As to the build, it's just smooth application of rattle can paint & some aftermarket decals from a guy who is now out of business.

PM me your address, and I'll send you the articles for detailing to hood & brake lines (didn't do that on this one).

Here is the article I used to detail the Caterpillar 3208:

http://public.fotki.com/modeltrucks25thscale/model_magazine_articles/car_modeller/cm09_sept_1991_cate/

Just sent PM. BTW have always loved those 1970's LN/LNTs. Ever since my friends brother built the original AMT dual drive tractor ( if I remember correctly it had McLean Trucking decals ), and saw White Line Fever and that LNT was chasing the Blue Mule. I was hooked on the Louisville series. Thanks again.

JerseeJerry

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Yeah, the box truck frame is significantly longer than the dump or tandem tractor version, it's nothing a razor saw can't fix though.

I will do the box truck first. Then if that comes out okay I will attempt doing another one as a tandem tractor using either the Titan 90 or Transtar 4300 rear suspension as the donor. Or could I use either's frame and add the 8000's cab?

Jerry

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 Also, the hoods on the AMT Ford LN/LNT8000 kits are not hinged.  they can be hinged pretty easily though with some brass tubing & rod. 

Wow I distinctly remember fiddling with the hood, but that was probably 9 or 10 years ago, memory does funny things.

 

Haven't messed with the cab yet on the current one, just have the frame and box built.

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Have ordered the kit. Should be here by next week. So here are a few questions:

What is the easiest way to assemble the cargo box? Floor, sides, front, back, top? Or top, front, back, sides, floor? As suggested will use duct tape for the rear door. Also I would like to do my own decals. Would anyone have suggestions for an online decal maker? I know there is decal paper out there but I currently don't own a laser or an inkjet printer. Help as always is appreciated.

JerseeJerry55

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I built the box from the floor up leaving the roof for last so I had access to the door mechanism. I don't care about working mechanisms like opening doors so I didn't bother with tape just gluing the door closed. Besides being more difficult if the door opened I would feel obligated to add some cargo. 

I cut along the grooves to separate the slats then glued them into place. I did this for two reasons, one the door where it curves into the top was putting a lot of pressure on the tracks, and second, the door looked kind of like a bent piece of sheet plastic, not a bunch of individual slats.

Cutting the slats apart and then gluing them individually looks more like individual slats of the 1-1 doors, plus looking at the real thing is seems like they never quite match up 100% tending to get dings along the edges and a few just slightly out of whack. Still needs some detail painting and some weathering on the door, but it has been sidelined by other projects.

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Good evening all

Hope everyone's well. Here's what I've decided to do (I think). The LN8000 is on the way. I was thinking back to when I was a a yoot back in the mid-late 70's. Where I lived in Long Island there was a lot of truck traffic. I always remembered there was this one trucking company who delivered groceries to the local supermarket. The trucking company was called White Rose. They used LNT-8000 tractors. I'd like to build a similar work horse type tractor. Now my question is this. Should I measure off the frame the same length as let's say the Titan 90, or the Transtar 4300 and then cut it down? Or does anyone know the actual length of the Snowplow trucks frame as I'm pretty sure the frame is identical to the LNT-8000 tractor frame. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

JerseeJerry55

Edited by JerseeJerry55
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Or does anyone know the actual length of the Snowplow trucks frame as I'm pretty sure the frame is identical to the LNT-8000 tractor frame. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

JerseeJerry55

I'm not sure of the actual length of the plow truck's frame, never actually measured it, but I had thought of using one of mine as a dual drive tractor. If I remember correctly, because it has been quite a few years since I was in my plow kits, but I'm almost certain that it does have a fifth wheel included in the kit. 

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Just a tip on the GGMC generals, the cab sits too high out of the box, which causes the hood to be angled. The cab mounts need to be filed down to get it all evened out, test fitting is your friend. On the Ford, the snowplow/dump truck and tractor are the same frame. The short hauler kit has completely different shaped framerails. They are taller and longer than the others. I will try to pull one out and snap a pic of the rails.

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Okay the Short Hauler arrived today. Was very excited until I discovered there were 2 copies of the same instructions sheet. No instructions on building the cargo box or the tailgate. Does anyone know of a website where I can download what I need. Thanks.

JJ55

From one of the original Ryder release:

http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/amt-instructions/big-rigs-trailers--/amt-ford-louisville/cci09232009-00009.html#media

Pictures 10 and 11 cover the box and lift gate.

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