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Shipping a completed model?


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I am closing in on the finish line for the GT500 I have been working on, but I need some advice. I have to mail it from California to Georgia, any suggestions/ideas on how to make sure it is packed in a way that keeps it in one piece on the trip there? I have never shipped a completed kit anywhere, so I am hoping there are some simple tricks to get it there.

 

Thanks guys!

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I've bought many assembled models (almost all gluebombs) over the years...and without exception they arrive damaged.

At the very least, small parts like outside mirrors WILL break off, because even the gentlest, softest packing materials are a lot 'tougher' than little glued-on parts.

The last assembled model I bought was a 1/8 scale Pocher Alfa that the builder had made a "special" double-bottom box for, bagged the model, then surrounded it with puffed styrene packing peanuts.

Apparently someone in the PO chain of responsibility elected to use it as a football, because it arrived with multiple small parts mixed in with the peanuts, the body and many large parts dislodged from the chassis, two badly bent metal-laced wire wheels, and a crack inside the body shell itself.

Good luck.

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Get a display case and temporarily attach the model to the base, using wire. Tape the lid to the base, then put the whole assembly in a padded cardboard box. Make sure the word FRAGILE is prominently visible on all sides of the box.

Yes, and remember if you do that, if the wire you use to secure the model to the base is wrapped around the axles or any other obvious part of the underbody, when the whole box is dropped upside down on concrete while handling, the axles or other attachment points will snap off the model, the body will slam into the top of the case, etc.etc.etc.  

And apparently, in many cases labeling anything "fragile" seems to be like saying "I bet you can't destroy the contents...so please, go for it".

Ask me how I know this.

I don't mean to seem overly negative about the prospects of safely shipping completed models, but it's good to have realistic expectations. ;)

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Use an air shipping service as opposed to ground.  That would be the high end USPS (above Priority) and UPS next day or second day (or the Fed Ex equal).  I've found the air shipments generally get better treatment than the ground.  Not sure any one carrier is best, I've heard horror stories about them all.  UPS once trashed a Tamiya RC car I shipped.  I pack well, I've sent large format cameras with glass plates across the country with no problems, but this one time they must have run it over with the truck.  I shipped it in a double-walled box but it arrived in a single wall box.  The rear swing arm was broken in two;  a suspension part that was made of a delrin type material made to take shocks.  UPS denied all accountability.

As for your model, don't pack with anything that can rub against the model.  I've had the best luck with the thin foam sheets wrapped around and then bubble wrap.  No matter what you do, I'd be surprized if there wasn't some sort of damage.  I think a road trip is in order!

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I shipped a model to a contest years ago, and when I received it back, it was in perfect condition! I was instructed to first wrap toilet tissue around the model from side to side, then from front to back ( both numerous times). Then place the model into a suitable sized box surrounded by "peanuts" . Then pack THAT box into a larger box surrounded by more "peanuts". Secure the openings of the box with lots of tape and address the outer box (with the return address), and mark it fragile on ALL sides. I sent it using Fed Ex or Purulator rather than using the postal service. Maybe I was one of the lucky ones that the model was not damaged. Not only did it cross the border (customs), but the person(s) at the contest site handled it with the utmost care and repacked it as I had done. No damage! Shout out to Mark Gustavson and his volunteers in 1991!!

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I guess I have been lucky. I have shipped several models without damage. For 1/25 and 1/24 scale I use a USPS priorty box that is sometimes called the shoe box. First i put some peanuts in and then the model double wrapped withe bubble wrap. Then more shipping peanuts around the model and on the end. I always ship priority because I figure the quicker it gets where it's going the better off it is. I have shipped 8 models in the last 3 weeks with no report of damage.

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Get a display case and temporarily attach the model to the base, using wire. Tape the lid to the base, then put the whole assembly in a padded cardboard box. 

 

Yes, and remember if you do that, if the wire you use to secure the model to the base is wrapped around the axles or any other obvious part of the underbody, when the whole box is dropped upside down on concrete while handling, the axles or other attachment points will snap off the model, the body will slam into the top of the case, etc.etc.etc.  

 

I think BTD is on the right track. How about instead of the display case, use some cardboard to create a top with no room for the model to move, and about an inch wider than the car on either side. Tape the feet to the base. After the model is secure add side panels of cardboard. And then the whole thing taped securely. This could be your inner box. Surround the box with peanuts in a bigger box.

Untitled_zpsg4mixe8f.png

 

Edited by Jantrix
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I wire-peg mirrors and other small items when I attach 'em to my models. Much more resistant to falling off, then. I've not gone to this length yet, but a person could construct some kind of protective 'box-shape surrounding' thing out of corrugated cardboard that could have post-it note material glued to the underside perimeter of such structures, so that they could be safely temporarily stuck to the model. But what has worked for me is miles of toilet tissue wrapped around the model like what Wayne Swayze suggests, within a box surrounded by packing material that is inside of another box.

One more thing, make sure the inner box at least is crush-resistant. One can do that even with a regular model kit box, just take a large corrugated cardboard sheet and cut two layers of rectangles matching the insides of the kit box -- the key is is that one layer has the corrugations going in one direction, and the second layer is going 90° to the first layer. Cut a cardboard paper towel dowel down to the inner height of the box, and you now have an additional piece preventing the top from caving in.

You probably can't park a car on such a reinforced box, but it might stand a far better chance of surviving whatever football practice it gets used for at the delivery facility.

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I've sent built models to Australia without any damage, but to be fair they were dirt-track models without any external mirrors to break off- I wrapped them in a layer of bubble-wrap (the kind with small bubbles), then put them in the original boxes with balls of wadded-up newspaper to hold them in place, then that box placed inside a larger, sturdy box with packing peanuts.

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I am starting my first post-military job this weekend, so a road trip is out of the question. I think I have an idea of how to get it shipped, think I will use a combination of the above listed ideas, and wrap it, tie it to a display base, loose fill the cover, tape it up, then pad and double box it, hopefully it will get there in one piece!!! Thanks to all of you for the help, I have been worried about the shipping for quite some time.

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I am starting my first post-military job this weekend, so a road trip is out of the question. I think I have an idea of how to get it shipped, think I will use a combination of the above listed ideas, and wrap it, tie it to a display base, loose fill the cover, tape it up, then pad and double box it, hopefully it will get there in one piece!!! Thanks to all of you for the help, I have been worried about the shipping for quite some time.

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