Masking Tape Vinyl Tops.

[StevenGuthmiller]

After recently dragging an old kit from the bottom of the stash, I've become a bit concerned about the longevity of using masking tape for a vinyl top.

The kit I pulled out had some masking tape left on the body more than 20 years ago.

The tape had completely deteriorated to the point of becoming almost the texture of dried leaves

The adhesive had completely dried up & left it's hardened residue on the body, while the tape itself had curled up on the edges & become extremely brittle.

Is this what I can expect in 15 or 20 years if I use masking tape to replicate a vinyl top?

I'm hoping someone can enlighten me before I make a big mistake.

 

Steve

[Ace-Garageguy]

...Is this what I can expect in 15 or 20 years if I use masking tape to replicate a vinyl top?

Unfortunately, I believe you'll find that to be the case. The professional green 3M body-shop tape is the longest-lasting stuff I've seen to date. Eventually, the same thing will happen to it.

It's simply not intended to last indefinitely..but to be removed shortly after application.

If you want truly permanent vinyl-tops for model cars, you'd probably be well advised to use some kind or textured spray.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/28359-vinyl-roofscalling-all-vinyl-roof-experts/

[StevenGuthmiller]

Unfortunately, I believe you'll find that to be the case. The professional green 3M body-shop tape is the longest-lasting stuff I've seen to date. Eventually, the same thing will happen to it.

It's simply not intended to last indefinitely..but to be removed shortly after application.

If you want truly permanent vinyl-tops for model cars, you'd probably be well advised to use some kind or textured spray.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/28359-vinyl-roofscalling-all-vinyl-roof-experts/

Thanks Bill.

Not that I expect to really enjoy too much of the effects of the tape deteriorating 20 years or more from now, but I'd prefer the top to last as long as the rest of the model.

I've dabbled a little in vinyl tops, but I've never been a big fan of them anyway so this will be my first real finished one.

When I saw some results & experimented a little on my own with the masking tape method, it looked like the real deal until I started to give it a little thought.

I'm really second guessing the whole idea now & am leaning heavily towards getting out the styrene strip & going with the "spattered paint" method.

It looks to be the most likely avenue to a good long lasting finish.

 

Steve

[gtx6970]

You can always do it as a painted top...

[BigTallDad]

If you can find it, get a can of Krylon paint called "make it suede". Experiment with some scrap plastic, such as a blister pack, spraying from about 12" (or so) away. I used masking tape for the seams.

Even though the paint comes in different colors, you can still paint over it with a satin/matte color of choice.

This paint can also be used to simulate bed liners in pickup trucks, as well as vinyl interiors.

Edited September 3, 2016 by BigTallDad

[Ace-Garageguy]

PS.  There probably are some modelers who have had tape vinyl-tops last for a long time, maybe 20 years or more, but variables like which particular tape was used (the specs of the adhesives and the paper and the surface treatment of the paper all vary with manufacturer, intended application and cost), what it was top-coated with, and the conditions under which the finished model was stored (temperature, humidity, exposure to sunlight / UV etc.) make drawing any blanket conclusions about its longevity pretty much impossible. Using masking tape for vinyl tops is too much like a carp-shoot for my liking.

[gtx6970]

Here are 2 examples using 2 different methods.

1st, AMT 1969 GTX , This was my 1st ever attempt at adding a vinyl top ,,,,, and this car was built AT LEAST 20 years ago,,maybe closer to 25. I used the masking tape method. IMO if you go this route, add strip stryene to the drip rail and the forward edge of the vent glass opening  to give it a more defined edge along the roof. ( obviously not done on this car )

No signs of lifting anywhere. and its just plain old masking tape  painted green ( replica of my old car )

Edited September 3, 2016 by gtx6970

[gtx6970]

Now, my 2nd attempt . And trying to improve on the looks of my 1st one.

This is an original MPC 1970 Charger to replicate a good friends car.

I added stripes of thin stryene to the drip rail and forward edge of the vent opening and and a cleaner job around the base of the top . Strips of stryene were added to replicate the seams in the top . Then using plain old rattle can testors flat black ( simply rubbed it out with my finger )  from various distances to give it some texture ,,,IMO I think it looks more realistic .

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

 I used masking tape for the seams.

 

The paint looks good Ray, but the masking tape is the issue.

 

Now, my 2nd attempt . And trying to improve on the looks of my 1st one.

This is an original MPC 1970 Charger to replicate a good friends car.

I added stripes of thin stryene to the drip rail and forward edge of the vent opening and and a cleaner job around the base of the top . Strips of stryene were added to replicate the seams in the top . Then using plain old rattle can testors flat black ( simply rubbed it out with my finger )  from various distances to give it some texture ,,,IMO I think it looks more realistic .

 

I'm thinking that this is the route that I'll go.

I've done pretty much the same thing on several kits.

Just never finished one!

 

Steve

Edited September 3, 2016 by StevenGuthmiller

[crazyjim]

Have you tried spray adhesive shot from a distance?  Styene strips first and flat black last of course.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Have you tried spray adhesive shot from a distance?  Styene strips first and flat black last of course.

No I haven't Jim, but I think pretty much any paint will give a texture when shot from a distance.

Hell, isn't orange peel what we all struggle with when painting bodies?

After all of these years of trying to perfect a beautiful, smooth paint job, I'm a little nervous about what will happen when I "try" to get orange peel!

 

Steve

[gtx6970]

Its easier than it sounds.

A lite coat or 2 to get color coverage. A 3rd coat on real wet......let that air out a bit then a real light dust coat or 2 sprayed from maybe 2 ft away. 

I did a 3rd one like this a few years ago....but its white and my camera will not focus in on it closeup. But the end result was the same as the black one above

[StevenGuthmiller]

Its easier than it sounds.

A lite coat or 2 to get color coverage. A 3rd coat on real wet......let that air out a bit then a real light dust coat or 2 sprayed from maybe 2 ft away. 

I did a 3rd one like this a few years ago....but its white and my camera will not focus in on it closeup. But the end result was the same as the black one above

Thanks Bill.

I will be doing things a little different though.

A portion of this will be done with an air brush.

The color will be airbrushed on, as well as a very light dusting of pearl.

I'll use a can for primer, & I'll most likely shoot a dullcoat out of a can over the top to protect the pearl & then rub that out with my fingers.

So I'm not 100% sure which coats will be the best "texture coats".

Primer won't give much texture as won't the dullcoat.

The pearl will go on so light as to be nearly imperceptible.

So I guess that leaves the color coats to do the job.

We'll see how it goes.

I already started to apply the "seams" to the top but decided to use strips of .007 clear plastic film instead of styrene.

In this situation, the thinner the better.

 

Steve

 

[gtx6970]

Thanks Bill.

I will be doing things a little different though.

A portion of this will be done with an air brush.

The color will be airbrushed on, as well as a very light dusting of pearl.

I'll use a can for primer, & I'll most likely shoot a dullcoat out of a can over the top to protect the pearl & then rub that out with my fingers.

So I'm not 100% sure which coats will be the best "texture coats".

Primer won't give much texture as won't the dullcoat.

The pearl will go on so light as to be nearly imperceptible.

So I guess that leaves the color coats to do the job.

We'll see how it goes.

I already started to apply the "seams" to the top but decided to use strips of .007 clear plastic film instead of styrene.

In this situation, the thinner the better.

 

Steve

 

Ahh, so its a white top ?

[StevenGuthmiller]

Ahh, so its a white top ?

No, it will be a darker green.

The pearl is a clear pearl that I use a lot on interiors.

Not enough to really give it a metallic finish, but enough to give it a "sheen" without making it too shiny.

 

Steve

[BigTallDad]

The paint looks good Ray, but the masking tape is the issue.

 

I'm thinking that this is the route that I'll go.

I've done pretty much the same thing on several kits.

Just never finished one!

 

Steve

I was just doing a quick & dirty test of the paint. For a real project, I'd use thin strips of styrene or putty (applied very carefully, using masking tape which is later removed.

Edited September 4, 2016 by BigTallDad

[StevenGuthmiller]

I was just doing a quick & dirty test of the paint. For a real project, I'd use thin strips of styrene or putty (applied very carefully, using masking tape which is later removed.

Gotcha Ray.

Not sure yet what I'll do for the texture, but the paint has already been chosen so I'll have to make it work.

I used strips of .007 plastic film for the seams.

Seems to have worked pretty well, but I'll know for sure once I get some paint on it.

 

Steve