Craze body repair advise greatly appreciated...

[aurfalien]

Hi,

I used some new primer and it crazed the body of my wonderful Ford GTX-1.

I was going to sand, brush on some Pledge Floor Care as a sort of filler and use some Plastikote Spot filler I just got.

Then rinse and repeat so to speak.

Am I on the right track?

[Ace-Garageguy]

For future reference: TEST FIRST. We've talked about this dozens of times on this very forum.

BEFORE you ruin a model, TEST what you're going to use. Plastic formulations have changed in recent years and so have primer formulations. And just because something worked on model Y from manufacturer X, that doesn't mean it will work on model Q from the same manufacturer. Spoons aren't an accurate indicator as to what's safe either, because they're not made from the same plastic as kits.

This very topic has been discussed just today.

You CAN probably save your model, but you'll have to build up the filler-primer very carefully, as it's HOT too. Then you'll have to SAND VERY CAREFULLY to avoid spoiling details. As far as the floor wax goes, I really don't know.

[aurfalien]

For future reference: TEST FIRST. We've talked about this dozens of times on this very forum.

BEFORE you ruin a model, TEST what you're going to use. Plastic formulations have changed in recent years and so have primer formulations. And just because something worked on model Y from manufacturer X, that doesn't mean it will work on model Q from the same manufacturer. Spoons aren't an accurate indicator as to what's safe either, because they're not made from the same plastic as kits.

This very topic has been discussed just today.

You CAN probably save your model, but you'll have to build up the filler-primer very carefully, as it's HOT too. Then you'll have to SAND VERY CAREFULLY to avoid spoiling details. As far as the floor wax goes, I really don't know.

Cool deal, thanks Monsigor Bill.  I've tested Future and it seems to work wonderfully as long as its totally dry.  I think it's a perfect sealer and probably required on any plastic now a days to avoid crazing.

I've noticed filler/primer/bondo is hot as well which is why I want to use Future initially to created a protective barrier.

I'm still on the fence on this scale model building fromage.  Some times its way fun, other times a nightmare.

[Ace-Garageguy]

I'm still on the fence on this scale model building fromage.  Some times its way fun, other times a nightmare.

If you look at the thread just below or above this one, you'll see we were talking about this issue today. Bill Geary (MrObsessive) who is a well-known, respected and published modeler uses this product (below) to deal with the problem.

Read the thread "Duplicolor too hot for ...etc" for more insight.

[aurfalien]

If you look at the thread just below or above this one, you'll see we were talking about this issue today. Bill Geary (MrObsessive) who is a well-known, respected and published modeler uses this product (below) to deal with the problem.

Read the thread "Duplicolor too hot for ...etc" for more insight.

Awesome, thanks!  Seems to run $20 for 1qt at jet.com.

[CometMan]

I've done alot of dry wall work, that is great stuff! Never tried it on models, though. You can get it at any home improvement store, as well as most descent hardware stores.

[Snake45]

 Spoons aren't an accurate indicator as to what's safe either, because they're not made from the same plastic as kits.

 

Thank you! I've been meaning to say that here for months, just never got around to it.

[MrObsessive]

Well, since plastics are forever changing in the model kit industry, you can always test the paint out in a hidden area on the model. For instance, the underside of the hood (if it's separate) is a good place. Also the runners or sprue is also good to use since it's obviously of the same type as the parts. You could even spray the inside of the body as that won't be seen to see if there's any adverse reaction.

Better to be safe than sorry when it comes to testing. As they say, "Things just ain't the same as they used to be".

[MrObsessive]

For those of you that might not be familiar with BIN Zinsser, here are a few pics of models I've done where this was used as a barrier.

Dodge Viper built a few years ago.............

You all saw this one very recently..............

Since even the primers have been questionable these days, I'd recommend putting the BIN on the bare plastic first before anything else. It dries very quickly, and I've had no problem with it to date.

[Snake45]

Another good primer is the cheap house brand stuff from Walmart. I've never had it craze any type of plastic yet, and so far it's stood up to any kind of paint I've thrown at it, though I haven't tried EVERYTHING yet.

[Crazy Ed]

   Just a thought, but one might also consider doing their test on a cutoff section of parts tree / spruce. Then there's zero chance of damaging wanted parts.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Another good primer is the cheap house brand stuff from Walmart. I've never had it craze any type of plastic yet, and so far it's stood up to any kind of paint I've thrown at it, though I haven't tried EVERYTHING yet.

How thick is it (as in, does it tend to obscure details like some of the high-build "scratch-filler" automotive primers) ?

And how well does it sand?

Is it as effective a barrier after it's been sanded? Some products aren't.

Edited September 4, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[aurfalien]

Man I am lovin the Plastikote with a Tamiya nozzle, night and day!  Looks like I'll be able to salvage the GTX-1!

Can feels lighter too, there stock nozzle was adding some LBS

Edited September 4, 2016 by aurfalien

[Snake45]

How thick is it (as in, does it tend to obscure details like some of the high-build "scratch-filler" automotive primers) ?

And how well does it sand?

Is it as effective a barrier after it's been sanded? Some products aren't.

It's pretty thin--doesn't wipe out detail like some do.

Sands magnificently, especially with 3M Wetordry #800, wet.

SO FAR it's been a good barrier for me. Not saying that NOTHING will eat through it, but I haven't found anything yet.

[Ace-Garageguy]

It's pretty thin--doesn't wipe out detail like some do.

Sands magnificently, especially with 3M Wetordry #800, wet.

SO FAR it's been a good barrier for me. Not saying that NOTHING will eat through it, but I haven't found anything yet.

I certainly appreciate the heads-up. I'm going to pick some up today. If I can get away with not having to go through the whole decanting PlastiKote thing, or the Killz thing, or something else...at least for a while...I'll be a happy guy. Lazy? Yup, sometimes. 

[aurfalien]

Another good primer is the cheap house brand stuff from Walmart. I've never had it craze any type of plastic yet, and so far it's stood up to any kind of paint I've thrown at it, though I haven't tried EVERYTHING yet.

I tried to get this stuff a while back but my local Walmart super store didn't carry it and was too horribly disorganized to tell me when it would be in.  I gave up after a month of calling and visiting.

Also, they changed the name of it as I recall.

Was it primer or simply paint that you use as a primer?

You mind posting a pic of the can?

[Snake45]

I certainly appreciate the heads-up. I'm going to pick some up today. If I can get away with not having to go through the whole decanting PlastiKote thing, or the Killz thing, or something else...at least for a while...I'll be a happy guy. Lazy? Yup, sometimes. 

It's so easy to use and so satisfactory that it's now my go-to primer for almost everything (except some airbrush jobs where I like to prime with a specific color). I've never decanted it, wouldn't know how. Just spray it right out of the tap.

Here's ONE wet coat of the Walmart gray primer, followed by taping half of that off and shooting ONE wet coat of their white primer (or maybe it's just "flat white," followed by taping off half of each side and spraying ONE wet coat of Testor Wet Look Clear, all over Monogram red plastic (interior of '65 Mustang). Pretty darn good coverage, don'tcha think?