Emblems? Foil, paint...

[crowe-t]

I'm currently working on a 1964 Cadillac Ambulance.  I'm using the hood from a Jo-Han 1964 Cadillac Deville.

What's a good method for detailing the 'Cadillac & V shaped' emblems on the front of the hood?

Is BMF the best way to go after it's painted.  These emblems are very small.

[High octane]

Michael, you can use BMF after you've painted & cleared the body, or many modelers are now using the BMF under the primer and using some lacquer thinner on a Q-tip to remove the primer and colors after each coat. While I've never tried this method, I will be this fall as I've seen the results from other builders and it looks great.

[StevenGuthmiller]

 or many modelers are now using the BMF under the primer and using some lacquer thinner on a Q-tip to remove the primer and colors after each coat. While I've never tried this method, I will be this fall as I've seen the results from other builders and it looks great.

That's the way to do it in my opinion.

You can still get great results, even with very fine engraving.

But I apply the foil later in the process.

Usually right before the last color coat.

Saves a lot of time removing paint after each coat.

I prefer to do it once!

The Buick insignia on the trunk lid of the AMT '61 Buick is one of the finest I've done, & it still turned out very nice using the "foil under paint" technique.

 

 

Steve

 

Edited September 19, 2016 by StevenGuthmiller

[crowe-t]

Thanks Nick and Steve!

Steve, The '61 Buick looks incredible!   What type of paint is that on the Buick?  Is it MCW paint?

Someone had said that the foil under tape method works best under enamels.  I'll be using MCW lacquer paint.

Mike.

Edited September 19, 2016 by crowe-t

[gtx6970]

I've tried the foil under paint now  3 times. with mixed results.

On one it worked perfectly. On the other 2,,,not so well.

My 1st one I let the car dry a few days and just took a T shirt with rubbing compound and rubbed like crazy ( its black so I didn't have to worry about metallic issues . )  It looks killer . My other 2,,not as nice as I would like.

The other 2 were metallic so I cant do it the same way as above.

I Just painted a 65 Grand Prix body yesterday in a Light Iris metallic and once reasonably dry I tried the Tooth pick dipped in thinner method , then rubbing it off with a dry but clean cotton T shirt method, and ended up with a slight shadow around the emblem from the foil glue .

 

I like the idea and want to keep trying it that way,,,but to me is frustrating. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.

 

I'm thinking on my next one  I may try just a polishing cloth ,,like maybe a 12000 grit and see what that gets me . ( I have a 64 Belvedere in primer now that will be simple gloss white so my plan is its next )

 

Edited September 19, 2016 by gtx6970

[BigTallDad]

Michael, you can use BMF after you've painted & cleared the body, or many modelers are now using the BMF under the primer and using some lacquer thinner on a Q-tip to remove the primer and colors after each coat. While I've never tried this method, I will be this fall as I've seen the results from other builders and it looks great.

The Q-tip approach is not as crisp as using some balsa (being very porous) soaked in lacquer thinner. When you use this approach, cut a nice crisp edge on the balsa, soak it, and wipe away the paint on the emblem; when the balsa gets too much paint on it and starts smearing, re-trim and start over.

[jwrass]

Leaf it! Best thing going for emblems.....ditch the BMF

[Snake45]

Foil the bare plastic, mask it with liquid, paint and polish, remove the mask. Magic!

[BigTallDad]

Leaf it! Best thing going for emblems.....ditch the BMF

I'm interested...I'd like to see a bit more description as well as some photos.

[jwrass]

BTD,

See my tutorial in the tips, tricks and tutorials section Titled: Alternative to BMF/ Silver Leaf.

If you have any questions drop me a line..... Contrary to what some have said it's not that hard to do.....

Jimmy "RASS"

I'm interested...I'd like to see a bit more description as well as some photos.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Thanks Nick and Steve!

Steve, The '61 Buick looks incredible!   What type of paint is that on the Buick?  Is it MCW paint?

Someone had said that the foil under tape method works best under enamels.  I'll be using MCW lacquer paint.

Mike.

Mike, the white paint is Duplicolor lacquer shot straight from the can.

The turquoise is MCW.

To be perfectly honest, I've never tried it with enamel paint.

I use nothing but automotive lacquers & this technique has never failed me.

 

I Just painted a 65 Grand Prix body yesterday in a Light Iris metallic and once reasonably dry I tried the Tooth pick dipped in thinner method , then rubbing it off with a dry but clean cotton T shirt method, and ended up with a slight shadow around the emblem from the foil glue .

 

I'm thinking on my next one  I may try just a polishing cloth ,,like maybe a 12000 grit and see what that gets me . ( I have a 64 Belvedere in primer now that will be simple gloss white so my plan is its next )

 

Bill, try starting with one of those fine conical Tamiya cotton swabs.

I dip one in lacquer thinner & very lightly go over the script with it just to get the solvent started on loosening the paint.

Then I go in with a sharpened tooth pick dipped in thinner to get all of the fine points.

The glue can be an issue if you're not careful.

Make sure you trim as close as possible to the script or emblem & take extra care to make sure the excess glue is removed before shooting your last coat of paint.

Some guys do use the same method with sanding or polishing rather than thinner, & it is possible to get a good finished result doing it that way.

I have done it that way but found that it was too easy to sand right through the foil to the primer.

Plus, depending on the grit you use, dulling of the foil can be an issue.

But if it works better for you that way, by all means, do it!

 

I like to use some of my black builds as examples of how well this technique works.

 

Steve

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

BTD,

See my tutorial in the tips, tricks and tutorials section Titled: Alternative to BMF/ Silver Leaf.

If you have any questions drop me a line..... Contrary to what some have said it's not that hard to do.....

Jimmy "RASS"

 

James.

The only question that I have, as I didn't see it in your tutorial, is how you did the "El Camino" script on the front fender.

Seems to me that if you don't have a steady enough hand to paint a script perfectly, gluing it in preparation for the leaf will not be any easier.

 

Steve

Edited September 20, 2016 by StevenGuthmiller

[Mr Stock]

The Q-tip approach is not as crisp as using some balsa (being very porous) soaked in lacquer thinner. When you use this approach, cut a nice crisp edge on the balsa, soak it, and wipe away the paint on the emblem; when the balsa gets too much paint on it and starts smearing, re-trim and start over.

Ray thats a great idea !..... Ive never thought of using Balsa

[gtx6970]

Mike, the white paint is Duplicolor lacquer shot straight from the can.

The turquoise is MCW.

To be perfectly honest, I've never tried it with enamel paint.

I use nothing but automotive lacquers & this technique has never failed me.

 

Bill, try starting with one of those fine conical Tamiya cotton swabs.

I dip one in lacquer thinner & very lightly go over the script with it just to get the solvent started on loosening the paint.

Then I go in with a sharpened tooth pick dipped in thinner to get all of the fine points.

The glue can be an issue if you're not careful.

Make sure you trim as close as possible to the script or emblem & take extra care to make sure the excess glue is removed before shooting your last coat of paint.

Some guys do use the same method with sanding or polishing rather than thinner, & it is possible to get a good finished result doing it that way.

I have done it that way but found that it was too easy to sand right through the foil to the primer.

Plus, depending on the grit you use, dulling of the foil can be an issue.

But if it works better for you that way, by all means, do it!

 

I like to use some of my black builds as examples of how well this technique works.

 

Steve

 

 

thanks Steve.

Im going to pick up some of the pointed Q tips this weekend and try them on the next one. 

Im trying to get about 4 or 5 bodies painted before winter

[jwrass]

James.

The only question that I have, as I didn't see it in your tutorial, is how you did the "El Camino" script on the front fender.

Seems to me that if you don't have a steady enough hand to paint a script perfectly, gluing it in preparation for the leaf will not be any easier.

 

Steve

Steve,

I actually did do the emblems, I also did the other side with real silver leaf to show the comparison of the sheen between real silver and the imitation silver. I have it in the can with text and pictures.... I tried to load it and had problems so I basically said screw it as it didn't seem that there was that much interest in the process.

For emblems you can pick on the size just like say detailing a dash. Let the size tack, apply the leaf, burnish off the excess...... perfect! 

The picking process and gluing small parts require some amount of steadiness, if a builder has those skills, leafing emblems IMO would be easy.

Jimmy "RASS"

[StevenGuthmiller]

Steve,

I actually did do the emblems, I also did the other side with real silver leaf to show the comparison of the sheen between real silver and the imitation silver. I have it in the can with text and pictures.... I tried to load it and had problems so I basically said screw it as it didn't seem that there was that much interest in the process.

For emblems you can pick on the size just like say detailing a dash. Let the size tack, apply the leaf, burnish off the excess...... perfect! 

The picking process and gluing small parts require some amount of steadiness, if a builder has those skills, leafing emblems IMO would be easy.

Jimmy "RASS"

I don't think it would be for me.

I hate detailing dashboards enough as it is, I don't want to go back to doing bodies the same way.

The foil under paint method requires very little skill.

Just a little practice & anyone can do it, even without a steady hand.

Unlike a lot of techniques involved in building a model, detailing scripts is one that I no longer have any apprehensions about.

I'm confident that they will turn out perfectly every time.

By the way, I use a lot of the same technique now for dashboards as well.

Painting over foil, or painting enamel or acrylic over lacquer for that matter, & then cleaning off what you want to show through, works for all sorts of applications.

 

Steve