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Posted (edited)

Hi,

The front windshield kit glass in my 05' Ford GT is too thick and cracked.

I would love to make my own glass as it would look better.

I've these .005" thick sheets of Evergreen clear styrene.

While doing a few mock ups, I've discovered that it would be a whole lot better if I could create a curve to it.

What's the best way to achieve this?

I'm a bit afraid of using hot water as it may warp the thin delicate plastic.

Thanks in advance.

Edited by aurfalien
Posted

I have used the clear plastic "stiffeners" that come under the top button of drees shirts. They are very thin and can be bent without the use of hot water. Rub the clear plastic between your finger and thumb to put a little heat into the plastic if need be. This will also keep it from getting any stress cracks in the plastic.

Posted

As always, thanks Mr. Bill :)  Stoked, getting my heat gun at Home Depot next week.

David, I worry that I might put fine scratches in the plastic as it will be the front windshield and a highly visible part if the model.  I'll try it on a test piece.

Posted

As always, thanks Mr. Bill :)  Stoked, getting my heat gun at Home Depot next week.

David, I worry that I might put fine scratches in the plastic as it will be the front windshield and a highly visible part if the model.  I'll try it on a test piece.

I have not had that problem but you could always use a small piece of Micro Fiber  towel.  

Posted

Here's a REALLY slick trick posted by a member here, Lovefordgalaxie...

I'm curious as to how thick my Evergreen sheets should be?  It feels as though the .005" I've got is a bit too thin?  Perhaps .010?

Posted

While I'm not familiar with the kit (pics of the kit and the glass would help), the real car had flush mounted glass which is not terribly difficult to do with clear stencil sheet.

The problem with using clear styrene sheet is that it will scratch VERY easily when trying to handle it, also clear styrene can be very prone to fogging when it's being bent. If it were me, I'd make a pattern out of the cracked glass, then make sort of an "inset" or lip on the pillars and windshield header that would approximate the thickness of the sheet on the perimeter of the windshield frame.

I would then paint the borders of the glass which would simulate the inside pillars holding it, and then very carefully glue the windshield on the outside of the body with some non fogging CA glue. This would lend a more realistic appearance, and the stencil sheet (acetate) IMO reflects the light much better as if it were glass.

This might sound a bit a daunting, but I did a somewhat similar technique when I didn't want to use the glass in my Johan Turbine Car kit as the glass was too distorted for my tastes. The difference being however the glass mounts from the inside instead of the outside. If you check this link here, and scroll down a bit you'll see what was done. 

HTH!

Posted

While I'm not familiar with the kit (pics of the kit and the glass would help), the real car had flush mounted glass which is not terribly difficult to do with clear stencil sheet.

The problem with using clear styrene sheet is that it will scratch VERY easily when trying to handle it, also clear styrene can be very prone to fogging when it's being bent. If it were me, I'd make a pattern out of the cracked glass, then make sort of an "inset" or lip on the pillars and windshield header that would approximate the thickness of the sheet on the perimeter of the windshield frame.

I would then paint the borders of the glass which would simulate the inside pillars holding it, and then very carefully glue the windshield on the outside of the body with some non fogging CA glue. This would lend a more realistic appearance, and the stencil sheet (acetate) IMO reflects the light much better as if it were glass.

This might sound a bit a daunting, but I did a somewhat similar technique when I didn't want to use the glass in my Johan Turbine Car kit as the glass was too distorted for my tastes. The difference being however the glass mounts from the inside instead of the outside. If you check this link here, and scroll down a bit you'll see what was done. 

HTH!

Cool how to, I'll def give it a shot.

Posted

The post Bill linked, while awesome, mentioned using Milliput as a mold.  Since Milliput hardens and is a 1 time shot sort of thing, I've decided to use Silly Putty.

I'll report back with results.

Posted

The post Bill linked, while awesome, mentioned using Milliput as a mold.  Since Milliput hardens and is a 1 time shot sort of thing, I've decided to use Silly Putty.

I'll report back with results.

You're missing the point entirely. You need something that hardens.

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