New to this

[Anton]

I just picked up my very first model kit yesterday and am having a few problems. Ive done two coats of Mettalic red to my Revell Ferrari Enzo's body. The paint is all splotch and darker in some areas. Im wondering what I should be doing and such. Ill upload some pics in a sec. Here you go...

http://usera.imagecave.com/Anton/IMG_1771.JPG

Edited May 3, 2008 by Anton

[CAL]

I just picked up my very first model kit yesterday and am having a few problems. Ive done two coats of Mettalic red to my Revell Ferrari Enzo's body. The paint is all splotch and darker in some areas. Im wondering what I should be doing and such. Ill upload some pics in a sec. Here you go...

http://usera.imagecave.com/Anton/IMG_1771.JPG

looks like it needs a silver basecoat and several mist coats of color slowly building up the color. Some of those metalics are real translucent.

[Anton]

Alright im just wondering but what do you mean Mist coats?? and how do I fix the coats Ive already done??

[Dave McFly]

Alright im just wondering but what do you mean Mist coats?? and how do I fix the coats Ive already done??

mist coats are just that you spray a fine mist of paint on the body let it dry and then do it again layering it up. when you try it all at once you get the bloches and the runs. you may have to either wet sand the dark areas down or strip the body and start over there are different ways to do this (brake fluid, oven cleaner, etc).

[Anton]

what happens if my only way to apply paint is a brush?? How much is it for a spray painter?? And would paint thinner work to get rid of it??

[CAL]

Like Dave wrote, light light coats of color just misting the body and slowly bring it up.

Yeah, you may need to strip it and start over.

[Anton]

alright so I have to strip the car of paint, do a silver base coat and start misting the color on. Is paint thinner going to work to strip it? How much roughly for a paint sprayer??

[Chris guthro]

5 Bucks at ur Local Home Hardware store or Even Walmart. You can get a Spray Can Almost anywere. Some are more expensive depneds on how good u want.

[Frank Steffens]

Hi Anton, welcome to the forum.

Don't use paint thinner to strip the paint. It may soften the plastic and damage it. Use automotive brake fluid to strip the paint. You'll have to get a container for the brake fluid large enough to soak the entire body. It may have to stay submerged for a while, several hours to a day ( or more). Keep an eye on the body to check its progress. Once most of the paint is off the model, take it out and use an old toothbrush to get into the tight areas where paint may still be accumulated. Once its free of the old paint, wash it with dish detergent and water and allow it to air dry. Wear gloves and work in a well ventilated area when using the brake fluid, it can be nasty stuff. The same goes for the spray painting to follow.

If this is your first model, I would not recommend getting an airbrush (paint sprayer) just yet. Check your local hobby shop for Tamiya Spray paints in a can. For this body, you'll need their primer...its called Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, TS-8 Italian Red, and TS-30 Sliver Leaf. They cost about $7.00 US for each can, and the primer may cost a couple of dollars more. Shake the cans vigorously before using them.

After the body has dried off from being washed, spray on 2 light coats of primer. When it dries, look for areas that look rough, and use fine sandpaper to smooth them out. Don't worry if you sand off the primer. Once the surface looks smooth, apply another coat of primer, and let that dry for a couple of days.

Next, lay down a base coat of the TS-30 Silver paint. Don' try to cover the entire body in one coat. Keep the spray can about 12 to 14 inches from the surface of the body, and start spraying when the nozzle is not directly pointed at the body, then slowly move over the body and apply a mist coat...this means that the paint that lands on the body doesn't cover every bit of the surface, and you'll have to use several mist coats to completely cover the body. Allow this base coat to dry for at least a week. The vapors from the drying paint need to escape from the surface, and painting over it while this is happening could ruin the finish.

Once the body has been drying for a week or so, you'll be ready for the color coats. Use the same method as with the silver paint...build up mist coats until the color completely cover the surface. Finally, your last coat will be a "wet" coat. Don't lay the paint on too thick, or it will drip and run.

Again, let the paint dry for about a week. You may notice a couple of specks of dust in the paint, or the paint may not be mirror smooth and have a texture that resembles an orange peel. Don't worry about them. As you build more models, you'll learn how to fix those problems. For now, just concentrate on not getting drips and runs.

As for an airbrush, a decent airbrush and compressor setup can run well over $100.00 ...you'll need a couple of models under your belt to justify the expense.

Good luck, have fun and if you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

Edited May 3, 2008 by Frank Steffens

[jeffinvt]

Anton, you will not need a "spray painter" or an airbrush. What you do need is a couple cans of spray paint. And a can of spray primer. You can get these at the hardware store if you don't have access to a hobby shop. I use Krylon primer from the hardware store, works fine. Spray the paint from 8-12 inches away, moving the can across the whole surface, not from one spot. Practice on a piece of cardboard first. If you get drips, your using too much paint, or are too close. As for getting the red off, which you will need to do, I suggest Super Clean. This can be bought at a automotive store. Pour some in a container, that you will never use for anything else again, , And drop the enzo in. Wait a day, put on rubber gloves, and scrub the body with an old toothbrush. Wash in the sink with liquid soap, then lay down your new spray can finish. Good luck with your painting in the future. Jeff

[MR BIGGS]

And don't forget under that base coat you will need primer. IF NOT YOU PAINT WILL CHIP RIGHT OFF. Go to a pep boy's or any place that carry’s the duplicoler paint's in a can that will be your best bet for starters. They have transparent reds, blues and greens. Base coats and primers. I use them all the time. The best result from a can would be to leave it in the sun for a few min or in some faucet hot water for 3-5 min then shake it real good for about a min. This will add more pressure to the can and make the paint come out thinner and smoother never try and get the car the color you want in one pass, it's going to take several passes. I have painted some car's from a can that where show winner's. Good luck

Anthony R.

[MR BIGGS]

Dam... we all posted at the same time now we are just going to confuse him.

[Frank Steffens]

Nah, we all said just about the same thing, just using different materials for primer and paint.

[LDO]

DO NOT use paint thinner to strip the body. It will dissolve the car. Use brake fluid or oven cleaner. Oven cleaner should be sprayed on, then put the parts in a bag or Tupperware container. After a while, the paint will just peel off.

Once stripped, clean the body under a faucet with a toothbrush. Once that is done, clean it up in another sense; sand off any mold parting lines and sand any areas like the nose cap/front fender/hood area to make them all blend in. Your paint job will only be as good as the bodywork below it.

Once you are satisfied with the bodywork, lay down your base coat. I've gotten great results with Tamiya lacquers in a spray can. For a candy/metallic red, your best choices in base coat will be silver or gold. Is you use gray primer, you will get a very dark red. Warm the can in a sink full of hot water. DO NOT USE BOILING WATER. Hot water will raise the pressure in the can, letting you lay down a finer coat of paint. GO slow. Just put on a very light coat. Don't worry if you don't cover it all in one coat. Wait 15 minutes and put on another coat. When you are happy with the primer, go on to your color coat. Use a warm can and go slow with it, too. Even though it is transparent, don't worry if one coat has streaks. Give it another coat in 15 minutes. When you are happy with the color coats, go over that with clear. Go slow with clear, too. That's the most important advice I can give you; going slow. If you try to get all your paint on in one coat, it will get drips and runs, ruining the paint job.

A polishing kit will help you get a mirror finish, but it needs practice and patience, too.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...ct&ID=80939

Good paint takes time, patience, and practice. If this one is not perfect, try again. Each one will get better. Keep us posted on your results and ask any questions you come up with.

Edited May 3, 2008 by LDO

[george 53]

Anton,theres nothing I can add,exept that you should listen to these guys.Their some of the best out here and they wouldn't steer ya wrong for anything.Don;t be disapointed if your first time doesn't come out perfect, good painting technics take practice,you'll get it.Hope all turns out well,an welcome to the best forum on the web!

[Anton]

alright thanks for all you help guys!! As soon as it stops raining Im headed out to get break fluid. Now the paint Im using is Testor and it comes in a small jar, probably made for applying using a brush. How would I go about applying something like this?? Would I do the same thing for the other colors??

[LDO]

alright thanks for all you help guys!! As soon as it stops raining Im headed out to get break fluid. Now the paint Im using is Testor and it comes in a small jar, probably made for applying using a brush. How would I go about applying something like this?? Would I do the same thing for the other colors??

You find cleanup easier if you use oven cleaner or Castrol Super Clean. It's not a good idea to clean up something covered in brake fluid in the kitchen sink.

The paint in a jar should only be used with a brush on interior/engine parts. You will not get good results painting a body with a brush. For the body, use spray cans if you don't have an airbrush. It's hard to go wrong with Tamiya spray lacquers. They are not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

[Anton]

alright! So Tamiya for the outside and brush on for the engine.

[LDO]

Yeah, but to tell the truth, I'm a big fan of curbside models. That is, kits that don't have any detail under the hood or chassis. I like cars in the "natural state"; hoods and doors closed, sitting on all 4 wheels. Concentrate on the body. That's what grabs everyone's attention. That's why contests have a curbside class. There is no competition category for "detailed engine/unpainted body".

[LDO]

BTW- if you have Java on your computer, go to this site http://client.sigmachat.com/sc.php?id=12510

It's a place for live chat about models. It gets fairly busy in the evenings. I'm talking with a guy who calls himself "Alfa" right now.

[MrObsessive]

Anton, to echo what Lee said, spray painting is the best for a good finish. In fact, anything that will be visible to the casual observer should be spray painted.

As far as your engines, you might be able to get away with brush painting, but I've found that the water based acrylics such as what Tamiya makes are the best for brush painting.

When thinned properly, there should be no visible brush strokes, but the drying time can leave a lot to be desired-----as they can take a while to thoroughly dry. I personally airbrush 99% of what is seen by others, including engine blocks and manifolds, but I've been doing this for too long!

Hope you post your progress as you go along, and any further questions just ask!

[Anton]

I will be posting progress since this is such a great help. Pics too!

[CAL]

Yeah, if you don't have an airbrush Tamiya sprays are a good substitute. The Cobra below was done with Tamiya rattle cans.

[Mal.au]

Hi Anton

Just one small thing to add make sure you do you painting in a well ventilated area, these paints aren't the best thing to breath in

Mal