Peterbilt 379 Finished 3/18/17

[Warren D]

As my Autocar Mixer build is winding up, I'm looking at my next build.  A long-time friend bought a 1993 Pete 379 new in 1993.  He drove it as an owner-operator for about 7 years before selling it (his new wife probably had something to do with it!).  I recently ran across an old photo I took of his truck and thought a model of it might make a good retirement gift when he retires from trucking later this year.

I picked up the Italeri 1/24 Pete Long Hauler (I'm a little surprized at how big it is, I've only done 1/25 trucks to date) and have a 379 hood and springs on order from Gary.  I'm hoping the resin parts will show up soon!  The build is going to be basically box stock only with the 379 parts.  The biggest trick will be the paint.  The real truck was Black Cherry, looked black but had a hint of dark red when it was in the sun.  I've done some testing with Testor's Aztek acrylics and I think I have figured out how to get the look I'm after.

 

FINISHED:  http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/121801-peterbilt-379/

Edited March 18, 2017 by Warren D

[Superpeterbilt]

Sounds like a cool project.

[clayton]

As my Autocar Mixer build is winding up, I'm looking at my next build.  A long-time friend bought a 1993 Pete 379 new in 1993.  He drove it as an owner-operator for about 7 years before selling it (his new wife probably had something to do with it!).  I recently ran across an old photo I took of his truck and thought a model of it might make a good retirement gift when he retires from trucking later this year.

I picked up the Italeri 1/24 Pete Long Hauler (I'm a little surprized at how big it is, I've only done 1/25 trucks to date) and have a 379 hood and springs on order from Gary.  I'm hoping the resin parts will show up soon!  The build is going to be basically box stock only with the 379 parts.  The biggest trick will be the paint.  The real truck was Black Cherry, looked black but had a hint of dark red when it was in the sun.  I've done some testing with Testor's Aztek acrylics and I think I have figured out how to get the look I'm after.

thats going to be fun,I did one a few years ago using Gary's hood. 

[Warren D]

I got the conversion hood and springs on friday and spent a good part of the weekend figuring out how to get everything to fit.  I think I'm close.  The photo is a progress shot as I was trying to plan how to get the desired look.

 

I've made mistakes along the way, the first was that I started assembly before I had the hood.  In the end, I had to relocate the rear cab mount which I had previously glued in.  Not a disaster, but would have been simpler if I hadn't.  So, with that in mind, here's my description of the conversion.  Gary supplied a few hand drawn details with the hood and a couple of suggestions, but you may find this more detailed.

The first thing to do is assemble the cab shell and sleeper shell.  Interior parts can be added later.  You'll also need the cab floor but it doesn't need to be glued in.  If you wanted, you could glue it in temporarily with white glue and a water soak later would free it up.

Next, assemble the frame per kit instructions, but don't glue in the rear cab cross member or the front springs.  If you are using Gary's 379 front springs, you'll need to remove the kit front springs from the two front brackets.  A single cut thru the front shackle should do it.  Install the front crossmembers per kit.  Do not install kit front cab mounts.  Remove the kit hood pivots per Gary's instructions.

Front spring install is a little tricky as the resin front springs are a little different length and the replacement rear shackles have a different angle to them.  They will work with some adjustments, being sure the front axle is level and square to the chassis.  I think it helps to have the rear suspension installed and the wheels/tires completed so you can be sure that all ten wheels will be sitting on the ground.

Fit the grill to the hood and tape in place.  You should have cleaned all the resin parts first, if not, the tape won't stick to the mold release!  Now fit the hood to the cab, I had to make some adjustments to get a good fit including removing the lip along the top of the firewall.  Tape the grill/hood to the cab and tape the sleeper to the cab so you have one unit.  It doesn't have to look good, just be sure everything is aligned.

Now is decision time.  The instructions say to start alignment at the front and work back.  A build I saw here said he extended the frame.  I decided to move the cab/sleeper back as I really don't want to get into chopping the frame.  My reference photo looks like I won't have to move the battery boxes or tanks so it's just moving the cab/sleeper to the rear and down.

I figure about 8mm (0.30") to the rear is close while about 3mm lower is good.  You will probably have to remove the angled protrusion from the back of the sleeper box to allow it to sit down.  I took 4mm off of the rear cab support and ended up shimming some back, so I'll say 3mm and a little shim to taste will be about right.  Temporarily tape the front bumper on and locate the front of the grille about even with the back of the bumper.  This will set the location of the rear cab support crossmember, which can now be glued in.  I glued a 0.032" brass wire across the front of the frame as a support and this was just a tad high but allowed me to install Gary's front cab supports a little low.  I removed the wire and added a couple of the supplied shims and got the proper grill height.  You can then install the supplied hinges.

That's the way I did it, and it seemed to work out ok in the end.  I won't know for sure until final assembly but things look good so far.

Edited February 6, 2017 by Warren D
grammar

[clayton]

Could have been me.to keep from moving every thing I cut the frame just behind the springs and added there.Mine is in (dad's last ride).

[Warren D]

I think it was.  I can see your point, all the intake and exhaust piping, the steering shaft, etc.

[clayton]

 

I made the intake tub from a ink pen.there just a tad thick but find one were the inside diameter is snug to the kit and use thin sheet to trim It out.

[gatorincebu]

 

     Clayton,

             Now that looks good !   Thanks for describing the build  for the new parts. Is this going to be one of your long OTR trucks ?

 

 

 

   Be Well

    Gator

[clayton]

No,that's the one of Dads,the red Pete. I am toying with the idea of a big sleeper. Not sure when yet.

[DRIPTROIT 71]

Looking good so far!

[Warren D]

The interior is done:

 

As is the sleeper:

I'm happy with the color, under very bright light it has just a hint of dark red which is exactly what the black cherry looked liked.

[DRIPTROIT 71]

Looking really good!!