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Posted

To get anything that looks even close to scale-correct (the material would be prohibitively thin to injection mold without a LOT of care in tooling design...though it is possible, barely), you're going to have to scratch-build.

Not that hard, actually. Just get appropriately sized pieces of tubing and thin the edges from the inside. Then make fins from .010" styrene or brass sheet (.005" would be better) and use CA to attach them to the inner tube first, let dry thoroughly, then final-trim and slip the assembly in to the outer tube, with a couple of drops of CA to hold it all together.

Posted

To get anything that looks even close to scale-correct (the material would be prohibitively thin to injection mold without a LOT of care in tooling design...though it is possible, barely), you're going to have to scratch-build.

Not that hard, actually. Just get appropriately sized pieces of tubing and thin the edges from the inside. Then make fins from .010" styrene or brass sheet (.005" would be better) and use CA to attach them to the inner tube first, let dry thoroughly, then final-trim and slip the assembly in to the outer tube, with a couple of drops of CA to hold it all together.

Hi,

I knew you'd know.  Yep yep, will get to work on scratch build.

Thanks monsignor.

 

 

Posted

I would look at the local hardware store for brass or aluminum stock. This will give you the strength and yet be thin enough to look in scale.   

Posted

I would look at the local hardware store for brass or aluminum stock. This will give you the strength and yet be thin enough to look in scale.   

I should have said "metal' tubing, but I assumed it would be self-evident. My bad. 

Styrene tube thinned that much will become too weak to handle further.

Even brass or aluminum tube will have a wall-thickness that's out of scale...which is why I suggested thinning the tubing edges from the inside, easily done with a small round file, or a tight little roll of 180 grit sandpaper.

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