Nube Question: What products/process are you using to polish diecast?

[tedd60]

The subject lines say it all ... how to you diecast builders/modders get your diecast's paint to look so good.

 

Do you buy polish kits ... or is there stuff you go to the local parts store (or Walmart) and buy that might work as well and maybe save some bucks?

 

T

Edited March 26, 2017 by tedd60

[swede70]

Hi Ted,

If it helps, when scrubbing and/or polishing something I've picked up used or hitherto displayed out in the open, there are a few things I do and can recommend.  I've found that your usual dish soap leaves spots, although if one employs actual car wash soap this tendency is greatly diminished.  Sometimes I fill a large sink with the soapy solution, while even textured floors can come through o.k. as long as one doesn't foolishly try to scrub them.  For light residue visible for the imperfect removal of clear tabs on any opening panels, a bit of Goo Gone helps, while always err on the side of something less hot and toxic before daring to employ something potentially damaging.  As for polishing, I can recommend Mequiar's Quik Detailer (or similar car show touch up wax spray/cleaners in a bottle) which works well on both paint and die cast plastic 'glass'.  Plastic 'glass' can in some instances be polished, whereas I was surprised to notice how well Hwy. 61 Chrysler E-body glass responds to careful efforts to enhance the same thus.  Lastly, I'll scrub tires down with a 50/50 mix of water and Armor All, given 100% Armor All tends towards the greasy and sticky which isn't strictly desired.  Kind regards...

Mike K./Swede70

 

Edited May 7, 2017 by swede70

[Snake45]

I've done very little polishing on my diecasts, but when I have, I've used my regular beloved Wright's Silver Cream silver polish--available at Walmart--and it's worked great. The paint on diecasts, even the cheap ones, seems to be pretty tough stuff and stands up well to polishing. But, as always, VMMV.

[tedd60]

Thanks guys ... appreciate the tips!

 

T

[Geno]

Ted, just my 2 cents, I use Turtle Wax Ice, It's clear so it leaves no white residue to clean out of any gaps or crevices. When I picked this Chevelle up off of Ebay it was dull and dingy looking, after the Ice it shines like new and no white residue lol.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 1, 2017 by Geno

[Art Anderson]

  On 5/12/2017 at 1:58 AM, Snake45 said:

I've done very little polishing on my diecasts, but when I have, I've used my regular beloved Wright's Silver Cream silver polish--available at Walmart--and it's worked great. The paint on diecasts, even the cheap ones, seems to be pretty tough stuff and stands up well to polishing. But, as always, VMMV.

On diecasts, almost always, the principle paint color of the body is baked enamel, for permanence.  However, any two-toning is done by masking and spraying the second color, which is never baked, due to the almost certainty of ruining the first, baked on color.   For this reason, I urge you to use only water-based polishing compounds, as any that contain petroleum distillates almost assuredly will damage, even strip off any secondary sprayed on color.

Also, if your model has any "printed" detail (in the industry, that's called "Tampo Prinint", those details can easily be lost from polishing.

Art

[Snake45]

  On 7/26/2017 at 10:19 PM, Art Anderson said:

On diecasts, almost always, the principle paint color of the body is baked enamel, for permanence.  However, any two-toning is done by masking and spraying the second color, which is never baked, due to the almost certainty of ruining the first, baked on color.   For this reason, I urge you to use only water-based polishing compounds, as any that contain petroleum distillates almost assuredly will damage, even strip off any secondary sprayed on color.

Also, if your model has any "printed" detail (in the industry, that's called "Tampo Prinint", those details can easily be lost from polishing.

Art

Wright's is water-based, and can be "cut" with water for a finer "grit."

Unwanted tampo printing can often be removed with rubbing alcohol without bothering the underlying paint. If alcohol doesn't take it off, I've had good luck with Walmart acetone-free nail polish remover. Followed by a final polish with the Wright's.

[Art Anderson]

  On 7/27/2017 at 2:26 AM, Snake45 said:

Wright's is water-based, and can be "cut" with water for a finer "grit."

Unwanted tampo printing can often be removed with rubbing alcohol without bothering the underlying paint. If alcohol doesn't take it off, I've had good luck with Walmart acetone-free nail polish remover. Followed by a final polish with the Wright's.

For that matter, Testors enamel thinner  will wash a way tampo-printing.

[Snake45]

  On 7/27/2017 at 5:09 PM, Art Anderson said:

For that matter, Testors enamel thinner  will wash a way tampo-printing.

Huh. Good to know! But I'll bet the Walmart nail stuff is cheaper.

Did you know that the world's most expensive white vinegar comes in little bottles marked Testor Decal Set?

[Art Anderson]

  On 7/28/2017 at 2:13 AM, Snake45 said:

Huh. Good to know! But I'll bet the Walmart nail stuff is cheaper.

Did you know that the world's most expensive white vinegar comes in little bottles marked Testor Decal Set?

Richard, trust me on this one--the several Chinese diecast companies pretty much all use he same paints, same procedures and the same Tampo printing techmology.

Art

[High octane]

If I'm not mistaken all my Danbury and Franklin Mint cars came from the factory already polished, and all I do is dust them once in awhile. After all they're not real cars and don't go out in the elements.

[Snake45]

  On 7/31/2017 at 1:01 AM, High octane said:

If I'm not mistaken all my Danbury and Franklin Mint cars came from the factory already polished, and all I do is dust them once in awhile. After all they're not real cars and don't go out in the elements.

I've only got a couple of Danbury or Franklin cars, but they're clearly NOT polished. They're nice and smooth and shiny and nice looking, but they're not polished.

[High octane]

  On 8/2/2017 at 2:16 PM, Snake45 said:

I've only got a couple of Danbury or Franklin cars, but they're clearly NOT polished. They're nice and smooth and shiny and nice looking, but they're not polished.

If you say so.

[Snake45]

  On 8/2/2017 at 6:03 PM, High octane said:

If you say so.

I've polished enough paint and plastic to tell the difference between polished and unpolished. My diecasts are NOT polished. They do look pretty good, though.