AMT 39 Fordor Sedan

[Sixties Sam]

I like it! Great conversion, and nice color, too!

Sam

[crazyjim]

Good looking build and I love the interior -  and the SHINY

[alan barton]

Thanks guys,

The colour was Plasti-cote Odds and Ends Tangerine over white primer. I really like it - it has a very clean bright look to it and covers brilliantly.  No clear applied at all, just a bit of Tamiya fine polishing compound on the roof.  Only one hardware store in Perth ever carried this paint and it is long gone now but all the colours were awesome.  If you can still get it in the USA, I strongly recommend it!

Cheers

Alan

[alan barton]

Sorry Bernard, I missed our post when I made the last reply. Yes, I definitely used the AMT Tudor fender assembly. I did the body to frame conversion several years ago and don't remember making any cuts at all.  I have just painted another Revell 40 frame and I have a raw 39 Tudor sitting out at the moment - at our big model expo next weekend our club is doing a Before and After theme to educate the public so my build room is littered with Forties this week!  Anyhow, I will go and have another look at my finished four door and also at the two new components and see if I can clarify anything.

Yeah, the wheels get me guessing all the time.  I used to think I was indecisive, but now, I'm not so sure!!!! The odd thing is, of the twenty or so models I have with different wheels on each side, I usually end up preferring one side over the other.  However, other modellers who see them often have preferences for the opposite side.  On my tangerine pumpkin, both sides are talking to me at the moment.

Cheers

Alan 

[alan barton]

OK after investigating I found a few things I did.  You're right, Bernard, I did need to cut out the centre crossmember of the Tudor fender unit, the one just forward of the rear fenders.  But what I had also forgotten was that I lost the Revell floor (which I found after finishing the model!) so instead I used a sheet of self adhesive brushed/polished aluminium paper (from a scrapbooking store) to cover the bottom of the interior tub.  I took another piece of the same paper but did not remove the backing sheet.  I trimmed it to fit the rear half of the Revell chassis, folding a return into the front edge where it butts up with the interior unit.  I then used superglue to attach the rear section of this paper to the downwards sloping section of the top of the front rails, leaving the front half of the paper free.  When I drop the chassis into the fender unit, it all snuggled together nicely. I then glued an AME fuel tank in place.

I suspect that not using the Revell floor is probably why I didn't encounter some of the problems you did, Bernard.  Who knew misplacing the floor could be beneficial?

Cheers

Alan

[Bernard Kron]

Thanks for the detailed follow up, Alan. It's just what I need to figure out how to do Version 2 of the project I started many years ago, now. I still have the chassis but the body and fenders are unusuable. My challenge is slightly different in that I still want to remove the running boards so the fender assembly will still be very weak before everything is glued together. I think, though, that the floow boards aren't attached so I have some options.

[alan barton]

Hi again, Bernard, I had another look at the new frame and new fender unit.  The stock Revell frame definitely DOES NOT touch the AMT  crossmember. it doesn't need trimming at all.  The interference is entirely between the floor versus the fender unit.  At around the rear seat mount area it clashes with that cross member.

I don't have any spare Revell frames to start a new conversion (Revell kits now run about over $50Aus, or at least $38 US so buying donor kits is a bit prohibitive at the moment) but if I was to do this again, especially with regard to your running board removal, I would try it this way.

First, I would trial and measure to cut the rear of the floor off at the point where it interferes with the central crossmember. 

I would then deal with the front half of the remaining floor.  From my checking, I don't think it would take very much trimming to get the Revell floor to fit neatly within the inner edges of the AMT fender unit. Once I was happy with the fit I would glue it in tight and do any remaining bodywork to clean it - I am guessing very little.  Now your fender unit would be nice and stable.  I really can't visualise how I would tackle the rear part of the floor but I am guessing cutting it up into two or three section and doing lots of trial and error fitting. When all of this was locked in I think you would then be in position to safely remove your running boards.

Hope that helps

Alan

 

[Bernard Kron]

Hi Alan,

Thanks for the further analysis. I'll have a look in the next while. This is a project I have long wanted to restart.

[alan barton]

No worries, mate.  One other thing I just thought of - while I have been working on all thee forties, I stumbled on two separate running boards in AMT tan plastic.  I don't hahve the kit but am wondering if these came on the Diamond in the Rough version?  That could solve your running board problem!

 

Cheers

Alan

[vintagercr]

Looks great, but the steering wheel is on the wrong side

[Silver Foxx]

Very nice work on this, looks great , love the colour , well done .