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Posted

got an idea ....

which Auto kit did I trade for - the Lotus 25 ?

let's do a build blog combining your build of the Ferrari and I'll build one of my Auto Kits

we'll call it "trading places" or something stupid like that ....

???????

Posted
2 hours ago, absmiami said:

got an idea ....

which Auto kit did I trade for - the Lotus 25 ?

let's do a build blog combining your build of the Ferrari and I'll build one of my Auto Kits

we'll call it "trading places" or something stupid like that ....

???????

Yes....that's the one.  Sounds like a great idea. I post here on "under glass" all the time so it should be no problem with pictures and text. 

Posted

was unable to find a single Auto Kits 1/24th Lotus build on this site

has anyone ever seen a build blog  on this site ?? 

the kits aren't really that rare  ....

just wondering

no - not the Tamiya kit

that is/was the wrong scale  ...

Posted
13 hours ago, absmiami said:

was unable to find a single Auto Kits 1/24th Lotus build on this site

has anyone ever seen a build blog  on this site ?? 

the kits aren't really that rare  ....

just wondering

no - not the Tamiya kit

that is/was the wrong scale  ...

I have an email pal who has built one. Specifically the Ferrari. He is not on this forum but I can contact him for info and post it. He is in Germany and it takes awhile for him to respond. 

Posted

thinking about making a few changes to the kit

maybe more than a few ...

I'll end up using about a dozen kit parts

how about a Lotus 32 

with the climax four   ???

might have been one of Jimmy's favorites  ....

Posted
20 hours ago, absmiami said:

thinking about making a few changes to the kit

maybe more than a few ...

I'll end up using about a dozen kit parts

how about a Lotus 32 

with the climax four   ???

might have been one of Jimmy's favorites  ....

Looked at mine the other day and there is not much to change since they used only one engine. Probably scratchbuild a lot of the suspension as the metal will probably not support the wieght of the finished model. I am more concerned about the seam between the two halfs. I did the 1/20 revival version of this car and the seam was not a problem because the body fit well  and it looked like it belonged there.  Also all the interior has to be finished before the body goes together and i am just not used to this technique, so doing these at the same time will be a huge help for me. 

  • 6 months later...
Posted

the Norton engine is back from the engine builder - the carbureter is still at the carb resto shop ...

the engine is in for a test fit so I can trim and fit the engine cover - almost done

it will pivot on a nickel silver rod - think it's .015

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Posted

there's lots going on in front of the driving compartment

so I'm hinging the forward clip - but I've got to add a small section of renshape to the lower corners of the clip  for this purpose

the scrap renshape plug is glued on with CA - which will give it a chemical bond with the adjoining resin - and then sanded with sanding sticks and files ...

the parts have to be precise because they hinge right next to the pick-ups for the

front suspension arms …..

this will be delicate - I'll have to be careful with this hinge

I'll reinforce them with small metal rings ….

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Posted

the alu fuel tank is perched above the driver's legs

made from renshape - I'm adding the rivets before painting

rivet holes are marked on some parafilm - 3M - just so I can re-mark 

- I'm just eyeballing the placement of holes - without placing marks in the surface of the tank

the fuel tank cap sits in the depressed semi circle - and is accessible in front of the dash hoop ...

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Posted

you never know - maybe the old man will pay us a visit when this is almost done ... 

best balsa vintage gauge sheet - used the medium sized tach

evergreen tube and rod

a stray photo-etched gauge ring

bracket from filed/sanded evergreen .020 strip and tube

that's about all there is to the instrumentation on an FIII cooper ... 

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Posted

You sir are an extremely talented fabricator. You are doing some incredible detailed modifications. You must have been a machinist or watch maker for Rolex. 

Outstanding, best regards, Steve

Posted

watch making ….

thanks - but I don't think so

watches are supposed to run - bet I could make one from a kit [do they make those?]

it would run about five minutes and then stop - and the minute  hand would fall off - or something ...

the driving compartment only has a few features

levers made from nickel silver - one of the stick shift and one for a hand brake that hangs from a chassis joint on the cockpit left side -  the knobs are 1/16 plastic rod sanded round

 

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Posted

the linkage back to the clutch case is a three part thing made from .024 nickel tube, and two connecting ends made from fine - 0.15? brass rods bent round, soldered, and drilled for the connecting pins to the stick shift and the clutch housing linkage

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Posted

the resin opening for the front suspension pickups has to be ground back where marked for openings for the tie rod

the car had a classic race car steering rack - a feature in  all of the Cooper open wheelers

made from contrail plastic tube  - about .050 and some evergreen bits and pieces for the attachment braces and chassis support … - hope to have steerable front wheels

I think - maybe ...

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Posted

the rack is glued to the chassis brace - liquid glue - Tamiya

and glued to the chassis - have to do this now so I can determine the run of the steering column and position of the steering wheel - By doing this now I will leave off some details and features and have to make some finishing and painting compromises

but I gotta do this now so that everything fits properly - the tie rod will just barely fit through and under the chassis rails ….

anyway - once the gas tank is in place - it will be hard to see this stuff  ….

now for the pedals and brake fluid cylinders ….

It seems that I somehow have a lot of extra weekend time to build and post …..

Looks like we'll all have some extra workshop time ….  for a while

- maybe I'll actually finish something !

 

 

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Posted

This is the

bracket that will hold the brake master cylinders

it sits under the fuel tank

i don’t have a good

photo of it - so I’m winging it with some evergreen channel, plastic tube and aluminum rod

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Posted

The first of two master cylinders

one serves the back and the second serves the front brakes

contrail tube - love this stuff -

no longer made ?

with some bits of small diameter aluminum tube and a nickel fluid cap

second one will be the same

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Posted

Glued the bracket to the cross chassis brace before painting because it’s crowded in the front section of the chassis and I had to do some chassis rail grinding to make room for the cylinders

casualty of the scale

 that’s ok

 

 

 

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Posted

Now with all of this home time I’m learning how to post from my phone

go ahead younger forum members 

laugh you a s off ...

and don’t worry

i washed my hands first 

just in case  

can you catch the thing from the internet ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted

working on the front suspension

the mounts for the leaf spring and the shock absorbers are glued to curved chassis tubes

so naturally - this is where the Cooper becomes Un-Cooper-ative

nothing is in its rightful place - so I am replacing a shock absorber mount and tweeking some things

the green plastic is the original Merit kit suspension uprights - with a few mods

the white metal are the Deeks kit replacements for the Merit plastic parts ...

including the cool wheels ...

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Posted

the suspension uprights from the kit are sort of vague - as you would expect from a kit that is almost as old as me ….

but with some files, sanding sticks, and pin drills I end up with something that is close to accurate ….

the white metal is sanded with progressive standing sticks to get the look of polished steel

the uprights will be painted steel

uprights are glued - epoxied - to the susp arms before painting so that I can mock up the location and length of the leaf spring ...

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