Ferrari 308GTB Racer

[Mixalz]

Hi,

Darn really?

Well I'll soon find out.  Total bummer.

I do plan to flatten Pledge via Tamiya flat base and use it for my top coat, picture a satin finish (1 part flat base to 15 parts Future).  I won't use any decal setting solution and only use warm water.

PS I just read this on a forum which I think is brilliant;

I'm going to point out a specific thing I used to do wrong: You don't soak the decal, you just dip it for a couple of seconds and then set it on a paper towel for long enough that you can slide it off the paper. Soaking it will dissolve all the adhesive and then it won't stick...

TIL how to decal...... I have always used a bowl of water lol. Whoops.

Makes sense though. My solution to what I thought were "poorly made decals" was to clear over them (every single one!!)

[Ace-Garageguy]

Just an FYI...when you say something's been "Pledged" it's taken to mean (by anyone who's been doing this for a while) that you're referring to the spray-can oily furniture polish. Many model builders and show-car prep guys use it to get a final gloss...AFTER everything that can possibly be done to a finish has been done. It is, as I said, an oily substance, and is designed to keep things from sticking to it. This includes decals and paint...which will almost always fisheye if shot over the stuff.

"Future", whether it has "Pledge" in the name of not, is an entirely different product...made for floors. The two are NOT interchangeable, even if the names sound kinda similar.

As with many things in life, precision in using terminology can go a long way towards clear communication and avoiding problems.

[aurfalien]

Just an FYI...when you say something's been "Pledged" it's taken to mean (by anyone who's been doing this for a while) that you're referring to the spray-can oily furniture polish. Many model builders and show-car prep guys use it to get a final gloss...AFTER everything that can possibly be done to a finish has been done. It is, as I said, an oily substance, and is designed to keep things from sticking to it. This includes decals and paint...which will almost always fisheye if shot over the stuff.

"Future", whether it has "Pledge" in the name of not, is an entirely different product...made for floors. The two are NOT interchangeable, even if the names sound kinda similar.

As with many things in life, precision in using terminology can go a long way towards clear communication and avoiding problems.

Hi,

Ah yes very good point.  I've Futured it rather.

Interesting that oil is used to give a high gloss as to me, the really shiny models seem out of scale, unrealistic.  Although I've read that judges prefer shiny which is odd seeing that most advanced builders strive for realism.

My building is not at that level of being real looking as I'm simply happy to finish.

[Ace-Garageguy]

...My building is not at that level of being real looking as I'm simply happy to finish.

I know you've had a tough time with this one, but I admire your perseverance, and wish you lots of luck as you get closer to the end. You certainly deserve it for sticking it out and stripping it multiple times. I'm pulling for you. 

[aurfalien]

I know you've had a tough time with this one, but I admire your perseverance, and wish you lots of luck as you get closer to the end. You certainly deserve it for sticking it out and stripping it multiple times. I'm pulling for you. 

Hi,

Why thank you for the awesome words of encouragement.  This morning I spent some time dry sanding with 4000 grit as I noticed hard pebble spots here and there.

It's pretty darn smooth for decals and final semi gloss coat.  Although I did notice one of my fenders showing a seem so a quick super glue filler, sanding and paint was in order.

Tonight I'll Future that portion and by tomorrow it should be ready for decaling etc...

Thank god for Future and the builder who introduced its use to us.  It saved my model.

 

[Dann Tier]

Hi,

Ah yes very good point.  I've Futured it rather.

Interesting that oil is used to give a high gloss as to me, the really shiny models seem out of scale, unrealistic.  Although I've read that judges prefer shiny which is odd seeing that most advanced builders strive for realism.

My building is not at that level of being real looking as I'm simply happy to finish.

AMEN!!!!

[Dann Tier]

I know you've had a tough time with this one, but I admire your perseverance, and wish you lots of luck as you get closer to the end. You certainly deserve it for sticking it out and stripping it multiple times. I'm pulling for you. 

I agree!!!!!

[aurfalien]

Hi,

Well the surface of the car developed what can be described as cracked glass.  I then read where Future can re activate dried Tamiya acrylics causing them to re dry and shrink.

This then caused the Future to crack as it does not shrink.

Plus I spilled some isopropyl alcohol and some drops got on the model causing the the primer to show.  I did run out of paint 2/3 way through the second coat.

I think I'll have to strip and start over.  Looks like Eds commemorative build will have to wait.

 

 

Edited October 24, 2017 by aurfalien

[aurfalien]

 

[aurfalien]

Hi,

Since I was starting over, I added rivets around the fenders.

The kit had small molded in rivets that faded away due to the constant sanding/stripping.

 

[jaymcminn]

I've gotta ask, and please don't take this the wrong way, but is there any particular reason you're going with the Tamiya water-based paint for the body? If you want to airbrush, you would be much better off using decanted Tamiya lacquers. If you insist on acrylic, Createx paints are more durable and stand up to what you want to do. Either way would be easier than trying to make a square peg fit a round hole. Your work on this project so far has been spectacular, and I'd hate to see that go to waste.

[aurfalien]

I've gotta ask, and please don't take this the wrong way, but is there any particular reason you're going with the Tamiya water-based paint for the body? If you want to airbrush, you would be much better off using decanted Tamiya lacquers. If you insist on acrylic, Createx paints are more durable and stand up to what you want to do. Either way would be easier than trying to make a square peg fit a round hole. Your work on this project so far has been spectacular, and I'd hate to see that go to waste.

Hi,

Good question, I'm unsure other then that's what I have.  I'm not yet ready to decant however do notice how nicely Tamiya spray cans work.  In fact I use there nozzles on other cans.

I've read several accounts of how very nice Tamiya acrylics air brush so I'm really feeling inept about my experiences.

And thank you for the kind words.

I do feel that I have to learn more from this build before going on to Eds Chappy.

BTW, is there such a thing as being too hot to air brush or spray?

It's really hot in SoCal now, brutal in fact.

Edited October 24, 2017 by aurfalien

[Ace-Garageguy]

BTW, is there such a thing as being too hot to air brush or spray?

Yes.

Even in the real world. Very hot with either very low humidity or very high humidity can play hell with spraying.

Depending on exactly what material you're using, hot and humid can cause solvent popping and blushing, and hot and dry can cause graininess and excessive orange peel.

Even in the real-paint world where special additives are available to tailor materials to the weather conditions, they only work so far.

While working in the Az. desert for a while, we had to shoot paint first thing in the early morning. Here in the Southeast at the other end of the humidity spectrum, I've sometimes had to do my real-car painting in the middle of the night.

NOTE: The "Mr. Leveling Thinner" that's been recommended elsewhere is similar apparently in function to "retarder" used in real-car lacquers, and "slow reducer" used in real-car enamels and urethanes. I assume it's formulated to evaporate much more slowly, and as such, keeps paint "wet" while atomized (thinner evaporating out of the material before it even hits the model on low-humidity hot days causes dry spray and grainy orange peel), and keeps paint "flowing out" after it's on the model.

Edited October 24, 2017 by Ace-Garageguy

[aurfalien]

Hi,

Thank you sir.

Is the leveling thinner by Mr. Color labeled T-106 by chance?

[Mixalz]

Hi,

Thank you sir.

Is the leveling thinner by Mr. Color labeled T-106 by chance?

106 or 108 both are the same product just 100mL vs 400mL.

Unfortunately I can only source 100mL.

Personally I use:

 

- Mr Color Thinner for all interior parts etc (when I use lacquers; cheaper product)

- Mr Color Levelling Thinner for all body panel stuff (as its more expensive product)

I've read about people using decanted tamiya products straight but I like to use 10% of the leveling thinner myself as its still moist when it lands on the model that way.

[Mixalz]

Hi,

Since I was starting over, I added rivets around the fenders.

The kit had small molded in rivets that faded away due to the constant sanding/stripping.

 

Are those metal rivets? Looks awesome

[aurfalien]

Are those metal rivets? Looks awesome

Hi,

Why thank you sir.

They are MicroMark rivet decals for use in model railroading;

https://www.micromark.com/O-scale-decals-with-raised-3D-rivets-and-other-surface-details

I tried simple silver rivet decals (which I preferred) by HGW Models;

http://hgwmodels.cz/en/28-132-scale

But the hot decal solution I used started re activating the paint.  After leaving a sour taste in my mouth, I went with the under paint decal option.

[aurfalien]

Hi,

Got the tires/wheels done.

Made my own wipers as I destroyed the kit ones.

 

[aurfalien]

Hi,

Sorry this is turning out to be the; "on the work bench that never dies" thread.

At any rate I have what are 2 light coats of red.

The spoon is what I will get it to being a coat of Vallejo clear orange.

My current formula;

10:3 Future to Vallejo flat red

18PSI

I'm leaving this thing sit for a week before doing anything else.  But I was shocked at how pigment rich Vallejo is as all you see are 36 drops of paint to 120 drops of Future.

It is dry sandable as well, the Future adds a tough quality to the paint.

I'll probably do some light polishing/sanding before a coat of Vallejo clear orange.

 

[aurfalien]

Hi,

Ok so after ANOTHER stripping as I went to wet with the Future solution and it was horribly peel like, I decided to go Taimya Orange thinned ~60/40 thinner to paint.

It was too orange as I ran out of red, so I mixed in a bit of clear red.  I initially shot just clear red but it didn't turn out as I had parts more red then others.

The body nor I could withstand yet another stripping so I tried to fix.

I mixed orange with a bit of clear red and shot at ~20PSI 4-6" away.

This is after about an hour of dry, I'll let it cure for a few days before decals.

I may at that point try to dull it down but fear screwing up the paint so lets see what happens.

It's not as good as it was detail wise due to all the striping and sanding plus some rivets came off and I didn't have it in me to put new ones on.

At this point I want to be done and move on to me memorial build.

By the way, since stripping will be part of my daily life, I got SuperClean which next to ELO, is the best stripper.

My building skills are outpacing my paint skills but I hope to have that under control soon.  I simply need more paint time is all.

Edited November 5, 2017 by aurfalien

[Funkychiken]

Finally I meet someone with the same painting skills as me.

I'm a much better paint stripper than I am a body air brush painter.

I've certainly had all the issues you are having!

Good luck with the build... I like the subject & it's coming along nicely

[aurfalien]

Hi and thank you sir.

I'm excited to finally finish her.

I'll have to keep on my A game to avoid further mistakes.  It's getting very close though.

[Dann Tier]

This is looking awesome!!!.....great job on those wheels and tyres!!, ....and very creative with the wipers!!!......I hope this build is still going well for you!!

[aurfalien]

Hi and thank you sir.

It's going, the model still looks shiny and tomorrow I may wet sand a lil to remove a tiny bit of orange peel on the rear deck lid.  Other then that she is still remarkably shiny and smooooooth!

If I wet the the rear deck, I'll shoot another light coat and decal over the weekend.

Edited November 8, 2017 by aurfalien

[aurfalien]

Hi,

Well, I stripped her yet again.  I sprayed seeing orange peel and didn't stop thinking I could sand it away... NOT...

I pretty much resigned myself to trying until I got it down, even if that meant I kill the body.

Fortunately I didn't commit a 187 and am very happy with the results.

I had to strip to the bone which was the correct process here.

I'll wait mid week before applying decals and will leave it as is w/o dulling down the shine.