vwdave92 Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 WOW. Looks amazing. I've always wanted to stretch that body over a new Corvette chassis or something similar. Kind of modern Pro Street style Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ack! Ack-ack! Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Thanks for the Molotow tutorial. I must have a try as soon as possible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastheniker Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 Thanks again for all replies! I am very happy that you find my result convincing. AMAZING Build- great to see one with the top up and the colors are great. how did you do the wheels? I made the tyres from styrene with separate whitewall insets which made painting easier.I modified suitable rims from my parts box and laced the spokes as shown here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=77554 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BERT100 Posted September 1, 2017 Share Posted September 1, 2017 Very impressive transformation of a old kit. Bet that is what the Pyro kit makers whished they had, had to sell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterNNL Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 A very impressive "body" of work converting that out of scale version into something beautiful.The dedication involved in re-scaling alone had to be a monumental task. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastheniker Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 Thanks for the recent replies!When rescaling, reshaping or scratch building such non-geometric shapes I never rely on eyeballing.Using contour gauges (= negative templates) is the key to success IMO: I glue some additional copies of my 1:25 drawing onto cardboard. When I want to rework a part, f. e. a front fender, I cut out this particular part from the cardboard. Inserting the plastic fender into this opening shows what has (still) to be done. I apply this as far as possible to all parts, sub-assemblies and even the complete bodyshell. Side views and topviews are particularly useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djflyer Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 (edited) I would agree with all accolades and say amazing is the best way to describe the transformation. I saw that kit years ago and its almost unbelievable what you were able to accomplish.One question I have is what did you use for the metal exhausts? They look quite convincing and that is a major focal point in cars of that era. Edited September 11, 2017 by djflyer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastheniker Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 I would agree with all accolades and say amazing is the best way to describe the transformation. I saw that kit years ago and its almost unbelievable what you were able to accomplish. One question I have is what did you use for the metal exhausts? They look quite convincing and that is a major focal point in cars of that era. The kit exhaust parts (if any) were wrong. Making the flexible heat protection tubes was rather simple: First I bent the cores of the four flex tubes (so to speak the four exhaust manifolds) from 3(?)mm soldering wire. Then I rolled 0.5 or 0.8mm soldering wire and wrapped this flattened wire round the four manifolds. After aligning these rolled wires I secured them with liquid super glue at the ends and inside the bends. Last I polished the visible surfaces. BTW I used te same technique here http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=76128 on a Mercedes SSKL and on a Mercedes 540K I am going to show next. There are two ways to roll soldering wire: You can improvise an inexpensive rolling device usable for rather thin soldering wire by fixing a small, hard wheel (hard plastic or metal, available at hardware/house improvement stores) under a piece of wood. With the weight of your body roll over the soldering wire on a hard and smooth surface and you get a thin, bright, very flexible strip of metal that can be glued easily with super glue. Rolled wires of any kind, i. e. also thicker soldering wire, brass, aluminum and copper wire, so-called silver wire, even hypodermic needles, are extremely useful for numberless purposes when detailing, converting and scratch building. I used them on virtually all models during the past 20 years. For making such rolled wires of exact thicknesses/widths the fast and easy way I made one of the best investments of my modeling life: a bending machine. Bending machines are actually meant for making equal, kink-free curves in sheet and strip stock. Usually they look similar to this one: When I bought mine I was not sure if the considerable amount of money would pay off. It really did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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