Milliput users please help.

[Brutalform]

Hello.... I have a question about milliput putty. I had to remove the trim from a resin 63 Galaxie box top. I'd like to mix up some of this putty, and apply and shape the rear quarters where the rear lights contour on them. Also, where the trim once was, ghost trim shows through the primer. I was thinking of s thin layer of nitro stain or equivalent???? Ive had Tamiya putty on it, but wouldn't dry. I'm figuring it's because of the resin. Could this milliput be applied, and shaped the best it can, then when dried a final sanding???? I heard that once it was dry it a real pain to get it shaped after that. Any advice on this, or any other route I should take would be appreciated.

[Richard Bartrop]

You can shape Milliput like clay when it's soft. Just keep your fingers and tools damp to keep them from sticking.  Milliput is pretty tough once it's set, which is great if you want to make a fin or a sharp corner, but you can carve and sand it.

[Dann Tier]

You can shape Milliput like clay when it's soft. Just keep your fingers and tools damp to keep them from sticking.  Milliput is pretty tough once it's set, which is great if you want to make a fin or a sharp corner, but you can carve and sand it.

Totally agree......i love using Milliput, but best to use it as Richard said.........you can even scribe panel lines in it without it looking like you just carved into clay!!

[Modelmartin]

Milliput or other epoxy putties are best when there is a certain thickness to it. They don't like to be feather-edged too much. I use it for building up shapes, filling larger gaps and holes. Use regular spot putty for blends and featheredging. Spot putty is merely thickened primer.

If your epoxy putty does not cure it is because of poor mixing or cold temps killing the cure. It does not "dry", it cures from a  chemical reaction between the two parts. I use epoxy on resin, plastic, Renshape, metals, etc. It's all good. Use a thin layer of spot putty over your "ghosting" problem. The hot chemicals in the paint just raised the grain of the plastic where the trim was.

 

Hope this helps.

 

[Brutalform]

Thanks for the replies. When I said nitro stain, I meant spot putty. I think this will be new route. 

[Mike999]

One important thing about any epoxy putty, and I use Milliput, Tamiya and hardware-store brands:  there's no such thing as mixing it too long.  When I first tried to use it, I was constantly frustrated with it not drying or partly drying.  Once I learned to knead it in my hands for the recommended time plus a little more, that problem went away.

Usually the 2 parts of the putty are 2 different colors, and you mix until you see one uniform color.  If you can still see stripes/bands of the 2 different colors, it's not ready to use. Add a little water and keep mixing it.

Other things I do with it, which may sound weird:  I use a piece of aluminum foil as a work surface.  I sprinkle some talcum powder on the aluminum foil, and also coat my hands with talc.  Epoxy putty will lift right off of the foil, and it won't stick to talcum powder. Which means it won't be sticking all over your hands and will be easier to form.

Here's a guide to using Milliput.  Once you have mastered it, you'll be amazed at the things you can do with it.  Some of the world's best figure manufacturers create their masters out of Milliput and other epoxy putties:

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/techniques/techniques-uses-milliput-putty/

[Lunajammer]

Not to confuse the subject, but I highly recommend this stuff if you can get it (might have to order online). Quik Aluminum, not be be confused with any other "Quik" epoxies. The 2-part epoxy kneeds together like clay, is easy to work and sculpt with for about 5-minutes and once hard it sands almost exactly like Bondo 2-part putty and feathers well. Water on your finger will smooth it. Wear gloves and avoid the aluminum dust when sanding.

[Richard Bartrop]

Not a car, but an example of what you can do with Milliput.  I made the pistol from aluminum tube, and the base was styrene sheet, but the rest was sculpted from Milliput.  THe Figure stands four and a half inche tall.

 

[Mike999]

Not a car, but an example of what you can do with Milliput..

That's amazing work! Thanks.  It will be inspiring the next time I try to make a simple convertible top out of epoxy putty and end up screaming curses at it...

Some of you may remember that ERTL/AMT once put 2-part epoxy putty in a few car kits. That was the "Customizing Series" from 1987 or so.  I don't think it was a big success.